First time 4 stroke rebuild, need help

[taillight]

This is my first time rebuilding a seadoo motor or a 4 stroke motor. I bought a blown up 2003 gtx 185 with 244 hrs. I will look at the plugs first, then start to check inside the supercharger for damage. im about to start to pull the motor. I have some questions to start:

1. I read up an I will replace the bolts in the stator/flywheel
2. I will rebuild the supercharger while I have this apart, I saw that I should update to an 08 rebuild kit. can someone explain this ?
3. what tools will I need, I have to buy the torx socket. any one know the size? I saw that there is a torx tool for the supercharger bolts in a bad spot.
4. can I remove the motor and leave the drive shaft in?
5. if yes I can leave it in, will I have to align it afterwards? should I replace any bearings while its out. is there a bearing on the motor to replace?
6. when done do I have to hook it up to a BRP computer to re set engine management?
7. there are stock hose clamps on a few rad and other hoses, I will cut them off. can I use a standard hose clamp to replace them or do I need to buy BRP stock ones?
8. is there a list in one of the posts of which bolts can be reused and which should be replaced?

I probably have a few more questions but this will get me started
I already drained the antifreeze out of the ride plate
I will try to upload pics to keep you guys updated.
thanks in advance !

[toxicgun]

1. Great
2. Better shaft, steel washers instead of ceramic
3. Basic metric sizes, inverted torx set, 1/4 12 point wrench is great for the supercharger bolt
4. Yes but much harder
5. You should check the alignment anyway, yes there are main and rod bearings in the motor.
6. No
7. Yes you can use worm drive, I usually wiggle a pick into the stock clamps and open them up and reuse if they survive.
8. Replace all stretch bolts and flywheel bolts.

That being said, what happened to the engine? A lot of times there will be some major damage to the block that is not really fixable. This motor is pretty high strung and if you don't do something right it will all come apart quickly, not very forgiving like a normal car engine.

[taillight]

lots of oil in the bottom of the ski, chunk of threaded metal found at the bottom. lots of metal in the exhaust and some blown into the head and air box. spark plug in the first cylinder(closest to front) is pressed closed with some scratches, but is all there.

[taillight]

[SLASHER]

You have dropped a Conrod , the part with the thread looks like rod and oil may be a hole in cases ..

may at be a wreck job or find another engine ..

[Vern]

You have dropped a Conrod , the part with the thread looks like rod and oil may be a hole in cases ..

may at be a wreck job or find another engine ..

Yup ... the pieces in the exhaust are bits of valves. Looks like your head and block are going to be junk ...

[taillight]

more pics.
the collar by the threads does not want to come off. I will have to pull the drive shaft into the hull to remove it. can I heat this collar to remove it or will it be junk after?
looks like the connecting arm is toast in the second pic

[SLASHER]

Ooouch been there done that , seen many ..

[taillight]

do you think a little jb weld will fix this

[TurboB]

Hi, looks just about the same as the one I picked up...didn't come off the crank...stopped when a large piece of the piston jammed up the crank. I would suspect the valves are bent...I would replace them all in that cylinder and have a look at the valve guides...they can get some damage too.
Mine is a winter project...and it will take the winter to clean it, inspect all the bits and replace anything questionable. The folks here seem to have lots of good advise and plenty of parts to go around. Good luck.