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  1. #1

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    1999 Genesis weak spark

    Hope everyone enjoyed the long weekend. I previously had -0- hall effect, but got that corrected with a new timing ring. Verified hall effect with change in ohms while slowing turning flywheel (9V battery test). I now only get a weak spark (difficult to see, when spare plug is installed on MAG spark plug wire, grounded to engine block). Fuel is getting to the carbs (visible fuel squirts downward beneath the air cover). Engine turns-over normal, but no start. Not even a pop. Battery voltage (red/purp) at CDI is 10.8 while cranking. I get ~8 volts on CDI brown wire. I tested the stator wires again (it is a new stator), and readings all meet spec.

    Ign. coil-secondary wires: engine ground to plug boots
    16" 3670 ohms
    22" 4400 ohms
    28" 5390 ohms
    Ign. coil-seconday wires: Black coil wire to plug boots
    Nearly identical values as above.

    Ign. coil primary--black/white to:
    yellow/brown, black/blue and black/green all .50 ohms.
    Bl/white to black coil: open

    The plastic timing ring was installed on the fly wheel, in the same position as the old one. The woodruff key is sounded secured to the shaft, so I don't believe I have a timing issue. Have I sufficiently tested the CDI and ignition coils?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    10.8 volts into the CDI is really close to the marginal lower limit. A strong battery would be something over 11.0 volts. If you have a chance to try a stronger battery, that may be all it needs.

    Disconnect the Black/Yellow ignition kill wire that goes into the CDI. If the ignition stop wire is grounding that will kill spark.

    When the CDI is 'shut down' it will still issue a spark occasionally. If the CDI is working properly and firing normally then the spark will be strong blue and firing solidly on every crank revolution.

  3. #3

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    I put the charger back on the battery for a few hours, got it up to over 13V. Now cranks at 11.2V. The spark seems a bit stronger, but still not start. I unplugged the bl/yel wire from the CDI--same quality spark, regardless if it is plugged-in or not?? I should note my LR-502 is still disabled (only the bl/white wire is connected to the black terminal).

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    ...

    Ign. coil primary--black/white to:
    yellow/brown, black/blue and black/green all .50 ohms.
    Bl/white to black coil: open

    ...
    Did you disconnect the ignition coils from the terminal board for these ohm checks?

  5. #5

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    Yes, all connectors within the CDI electrical box were disconnected (ignition coils, stator, etc). However, the black/white wire from the Ign. coil was still bolted to the terminal board. It didn't occur to me a common ground could influence these ohm readings. Should I re-test?
    One more tidbit from yesterday: The voltage on the black/yellow wire from the CDI is 4.95 volts, only while cranking. Zero when not cranking. Is this correct?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    ...

    Ign. coil primary--black/white to:
    yellow/brown, black/blue and black/green all .50 ohms.
    Bl/white to black coil: open

    ..
    Did you disconnect the ignition coils from the terminal board for these ohm checks?
    Just disconnected all of the wires from the CDI, Ign coil and wires from terminal board and re-checked ohm results. All agree with what I previously posted above, including the black/white to black coil : open. While I was at it, I ohm-checked all CDI wires against the CDI black wire. All show open circuit, except the grey wire with round plug, which measured .2 ohms. What else can I check?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    You have checked just about everything that comes to mind.

    Have you confirmed that the voltage right at the CDI while cranking is well above 10.6 volts? Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire.

    With the LR module bypassed the Bilge button may need to be pressed to force full battery voltage to the CDI while cranking.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You have checked just about everything that comes to mind.

    Have you confirmed that the voltage right at the CDI while cranking is well above 10.6 volts? Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire.

    With the LR module bypassed the Bilge button may need to be pressed to force full battery voltage to the CDI while cranking.
    I have just over 11V, while cranking, on the Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire. I have tried to start the engine both with and without the bilge pump button depressed (yes, the bilge pump is actually running).

    The voltage on the black/yellow wire from the CDI is 4.95 volts, only while cranking. Zero when not cranking. Is this correct?

    How about the grey wire with round plug, which measured .2 ohms?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You have checked just about everything that comes to mind.

    Have you confirmed that the voltage right at the CDI while cranking is well above 10.6 volts? Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire.

    With the LR module bypassed the Bilge button may need to be pressed to force full battery voltage to the CDI while cranking.
    I have just over 11V, while cranking, on the Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire. I have tried to start the engine both with and without the bilge pump button depressed (yes, the bilge pump is actually running).

    The voltage on the black/yellow wire from the CDI is 4.95 volts, only while cranking. Zero when not cranking. Is this correct?

    How about the grey wire with round plug, which measured .2 ohms?
    Well, it does sound like the CDI itself may need replacing.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You have checked just about everything that comes to mind.

    Have you confirmed that the voltage right at the CDI while cranking is well above 10.6 volts? Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire.

    With the LR module bypassed the Bilge button may need to be pressed to force full battery voltage to the CDI while cranking.
    I have just over 11V, while cranking, on the Red/Purple CDI wire to Black CDI wire. I have tried to start the engine both with and without the bilge pump button depressed (yes, the bilge pump is actually running).

    The voltage on the black/yellow wire from the CDI is 4.95 volts, only while cranking. Zero when not cranking. Is this correct?

    How about the grey wire with round plug, which measured .2 ohms?
    Well, it does sound like the CDI itself may need replacing.
    K447--is there any way to confirm the CDI is bad? I took a few days away from this problem and I keep coming back to this question. I'm hesitant to spend $400-500 for a CDI, unless I am 90+% sure this will solve my problem. Since it appears everything has ohm checked correctly and voltage is appropriate, what else might prevent me from having a stronger spark?
    Also, I'm not sure how strong the spark really should be on this machine. Attached is a video I found on-line---my spark is significantly lower intensity than what is show in this video.

    Any further insight would be greatly appreciated!

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