95 SLT 750 stator remove and replace

**dbrink** · 07-04-2015, 03:50 PM

I have 1995 slt 750. I had a weak spark as I couldn't get anything to fire (including some modest shots of ether). I followed some of the guidance within these various posts and determined that my stator is faulty. I have one on order and I'm looking to find a few good links on the best way to replace it (youtube, here in GreenHulk, & etc.). I do have a service manual, but it doesn't provide much in this regard...

Please let me know if I'm missing something herein, if you can provide the play-by-play, or if you can refer me to a decent link for replacing the stator without pulling the engine (like the manual shows...). Thanks!

**onedollar** · 07-04-2015, 06:44 PM

I do not have specific knowledge of how a SLT750 is packaged in the hull, but I'm going to suggest that pulling the engine to change the stator seems like extra work but in reality would probably make it easier. As an added bonus, you would have the opportunity to fix any small problems that have a tendency to reveal themselves when fixing larger problems.

**d88co88** · 07-06-2015, 08:19 PM

Onedollar is correct. It is much less of a hassle to remove the motor and do it than it is to deal with taking off the front housing inside the ski. Does your manual give good instructions of replacing the stator while the engine is out?

**xplayer2885** · 07-07-2015, 11:37 AM

My friend, once the ski is fixed, ride it for the season and sell it. Get a yami or a kawi if you feel the need for two stroke. Polaris is nothing but heart ache....You fix and it breaks...Then you fix it again and it breaks some more. I went through this visocus cycle with my 95'.

**Mr. GP1800** · 07-07-2015, 04:30 PM

Originally Posted by xplayer2885

My friend, once the ski is fixed, ride it for the season and sell it. Get a yami or a kawi if you feel the need for two stroke. Polaris is nothing but heart ache....You fix and it breaks...Then you fix it again and it breaks some more. I went through this visocus cycle with my 95'.

Funny I don't have those issues.

If you pull the motor and go through everything and fix ALL of the issues you will have a good and reliable ride. If you only fix what it is you think needs fixing and nothing else, then other problems on these old machines pop up. Do it once, and do it right and you will be fine. I don't know how many times I have been working on something and found another issue that needed attention.

Here is everything I would be checking, especially on a new to me ski:

Jet pump bearings and seals
Drive shaft seals along with drive shaft condition
Carbs cleaned and/or rebuilt
Fuel system cleaned/replaced
Leak test motor
Check all electrical wiring and connections inside the electric box
Check all cooling and exhaust hoses and replace as necessary
Clean the inside of the hull as well as you can. A clean hull makes it much easier to find issues that are going on.

Use this forum to find all of the known issues with your particular model and address them. If you do all of these things you should have a fun and reliable ride for many years.

You could buy a Kawi or Yamaha 2 stroke, but when you need to fix something on one of those, its way more expensive than on a Polaris.

**dbrink** · 07-20-2015, 08:14 PM

Hey Guys,

I was able to remove the stator without removing the engine.

After I got the stator out I discovered what appeared to be a piece of an oil seal and a retainer spring. So, I checked the owners manual to no avail. I don't see where i should be replacing these parts.

Also note that I notice oil beneath the stator and within its housing (2 ounces or so?). I'm also wondering if this helped fouled the stator and contributed to the no spark / failed ohm test...

Finally, I found quite a bit of metal frag on the magnet inside the fly wheel. Is this just wear down of the stator contacts? Or, is this unusual wear?

Please provide any insights you may have. Thanks.

**Mr. GP1800** · 07-20-2015, 09:00 PM

Your front crank seal has failed. Time to pull the motor and tear it down. You need to split the cases to replace the seal. While its apart inspect the crank. Hopefully that metal is not from a crank bearing.

**dbrink** · 07-20-2015, 09:28 PM

would I be better off with a new motor (~$700)? Or, spending the dollars on the parts? And, as much as I like wrenching, it will take this novice a long time...