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  1. #1

    Coil/cdi testing

    Just a few quick questions on integrated coil/cdi testing on a 717 engine. Testing coil #278000586 which has one primary wire. This is in a seadoo boat but don't concern yourself with that. It has a simple mpem conversion and trying to isolate no spark. I do find it odd neather engine has spark so I either have real bad luck of two bad parts on both engines or something is killing it. Red/black wire attached to primary of the coils. Both engines show 59.7 ohms from red/black wire to ground. Cranking voltage is 2.something A/C and 7.something D/C. Both engines ohm the same and have identical power output to the primary of coil/cdi. Anyone verify input voltage as I'm unsure on this. Manual showed some resistance test on the coil but it showed it could leak and still be faulty. Of course no explanation on testing primary. I assume primary to ground on the coil but I got no continuity. Secondary leads shows no continuity but that is with the boots on. I tested 1 coil with boots off and 1/4" wire cut back and had 13.something kohms between secondary leads. What I am not understanding is the secondary nkg boots are suppose to be almost 5kohms but I get no continuity on any of them like they are open. Removed nothing, attached nothing. I would think they would ohm out even with boots on and I think secondary should ohm out in the 22k range but nothing. I also disconnected the black/red wires to each engine going to the magneto to elimated the kill circuit. I'm really at a loss at the moment and got a chance to play after work without the wife getting mad today so any insight or testing procedures would be awesome. Any particular test on another kill option I'm overlooking? Boat has 2 beeps when lanyard installed. Not using the dess anymore. Start/stop button engages starter solenoids on port or starboard depending on which one is pressed.

    Thanks,
    jesse.


  2. #2
    Waterluvr's Avatar
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    Let's start with the basics on how those coils work Jesse you're not going to be able to read voltage on the internal CDI.

    So long as the ignition generator coil tests at 40-76 ohms it should be working and that's all you need to run the ignition coil on the 717 and produce spark the MPEM being integrated into the circuit on the black/red/green on starboard side and black/red for port simply acts as an RPM/REV limiter on the circuit to the coil body and completes the stop engine function of the start/stop switch.

    By unplugging the MPEM from the ignition coil generator circuit the engines should start and run if the modules are the problem, you won't have rev limit or stop button function at that point until you plug back in.

    So, if the coil isn't firing at that point there's two things to look at.
    1. Verify Ignition Generator Coil ohms on the black with black/red wire per service manual procedures.
    2. Make sure you have good ground to the coil
    Last edited by Waterluvr; 07-02-2015 at 10:16 AM.

  3. #3
    I will verify the black and black/red wires resistance out of the magneto later when I get off work. Test right at the 4 pin connector right. The one with black/red, black, yellow and yellow black right? Wire colors change on my system. For instance my black/red going to the magneto on the port motor is a grey wire which runs to the mpem. My coil/cdi wire is black/red at the coil put actually a pruple wire from the mpem before it hits the coil connector. Also I ran an extra ground to the coil just to make sure I had a great ground but the ground terminal there also controls the stater solenoid so I'm sure that ground is fine.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the input so far!

  5. #5
    Waterluvr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessie00721 View Post
    I will verify the black and black/red wires resistance out of the magneto later when I get off work. Test right at the 4 pin connector right. The one with black/red, black, yellow and yellow black right? Wire colors change on my system. For instance my black/red going to the magneto on the port motor is a grey wire which runs to the mpem. My coil/cdi wire is black/red at the coil put actually a pruple wire from the mpem before it hits the coil connector. Also I ran an extra ground to the coil just to make sure I had a great ground but the ground terminal there also controls the stater solenoid so I'm sure that ground is fine.
    You're using ArielTek MPEM's most likely from the kit supplier and I have one of their wiring diagrams handy and have compared it to the OEM ski diagram it's correct for color code on wire function.

    The purple wire from the MPEM is for your gauges, those aftermarket ski modules have a black/red wire that needs to go to the coil to regulate rpms and stop function at this point it isn't wired right.

    Tell you what, send that mess back to the person who took your money selling it as a boat conversion kit that isn't right, buy two modules on the cheap and bring them by the shop I'll wire it for free takes about 10 minutes all in.

    There's no reason for you to be stuck like this figuring out a conversion kit you paid good money for.

  6. #6
    Incase you want to look over my wiring on my 1999 speedster sk this is what was connected:

    Black wire from kit (no connector). Ran directly to negative battery terminal.


    Plug1(power)
    Red from kit - connects from wiring harness back to original mpem at: 101/25. ( top center wire on plug 1)


    Plug2(magneto)
    Black/red from kit - connects to 101/5 (port) and 101/1 (starboard). Both connect from harness and jump back to original mpem


    Plug3(purple and brown wires)
    Purple - connects to 101/22
    Brown - connects to 102/9
    Both connectors jump from wiring harness back to original mpem


    Plug4(6 pin connector)
    All these are cut from mpem and attached to wiring harness
    Y/R - cut from 103/8 (port start stop)
    Y/R - cut from 102/23 (starboard start stop)
    Y/R - cut from 101/8 (port solenoid)
    Y/R - cut from 101/7 (starboard solenoid)
    Black- cut from 103/9 (dess post)
    B/Y - cut from 103/1 (dess post)

  7. #7
    And her was a schematic I made quickly at work the other day. Disregard the black/red out of the 2 mpems. That is wrong as it shows the coil wires hooked there too. Actually it just the grey and grey/green wires for the maneto. The coil wires are reattached to the original mpem. That connector has it jumped from the new mpems to the original. Purple and brown explained above if you have access to the wiring diagram.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    Deleted, response below

  9. #9
    And unfortunately there are no returns so I'm stuck trying to figure it out. It's just strange that the original mpem still controls the coil wires as I would think the kit would eliminate that. Kit has several wires just capped and not doing anything. Notice no tach response when cranking too but I might have other issues as this boat has been sitting a few years now since I couldn't find an mpem for it. Thanks again!!!

  10. #10
    Waterluvr's Avatar
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    What was wrong, not working etc. with the original boat module?

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