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  1. #1

    '07 FX no water from the pilot on hose?

    Hello all, new to the forum. I have had several skis over the years including stand ups and sit downs. All three major brands but it has been a long time.

    I just bought a used '07 FX with 81 hours. Test rode her yesterday and all went well. I did check the left side pilot flow while in water and got flow. Yesterday afternoon while flushing on the hose and cleaning I could not get any water to flow out of the pilot hole. I ran a piece of 130# fishing line thru it just to make sure there was no restriction. I even pulled the bypass hose up at the engine. No flow.

    i did search the forum and found some references to reduced flow while on the hose since the pump isn't able to pressurize the system but I get no flow. I do feel slight air flow with my finger over the pilot if I rev the motor. For a little piece of mind I thought I would posts send see if I can get some confirmation or (argg) opinions whether I already have a problem. Thanks!
    Last edited by Billablehours; 06-28-2015 at 07:54 AM.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Central North Carolina
    You don't have enough hose pressure to pressurize the cooling system like the pump does at speed. Just to be safe when you get back in the water take a look at speed and see is the pilot is pushing water out, Have a great day. Tommy Jordan

  3. #3
    Ski Hacks MG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    I've had Yamaha's where the pilot did flow on the hose and some that didn't (or took forever to start). Hose pressure has a lot to do with it. If it flows on the water, don't worry about it.

  4. #4
    Thanks folks. That is what I expected but the confirmation is appreciated!

  5. #5
    Its likely not getting hot on the hose to close the thermostat and the water is running out of the exhaust system. When you get up to on plane you should see those lines pissin.

    I recommend getting an R&D air filter for that ski and ditching the stock one if you haven't already. They are reusable, I have 2000+ hour on some of the the skis I work on in key west. When they get ready to sell a rental ski, they take the fresh unused stock filter (dont even use when buying new) and put it on the next ski.

  6. #6
    Thanks Tony. It was flowing fine on the water it just wasn't flowing on the hose.

    What about the Riva velocity stack and power filter combo? I understand they give a little acceleration and even a slight top end improvement. Or just run an R&D?

    BTW I see your posts on spearboard all the time. I have a place on Big Pine which is where this ski will probably end up. For now its in Orlando.

  7. #7
    spearboard ? what the heck is that? I dont know anything about that asshole haha, not many people from there on here. I think you might be the first thats mentioned that. Be sure to look me up when you get down here, these are all things I could do for you but are just as easy to do yourself. Minus a few of them...even tho somewhere on here I did a full fletched shoe pump repair walk through...

    I would suggest staying away from that kit, You wont see anything worth doing for that kind of money.

    If you are wanting a little bit more power and reliability:
    After market Intake grate FIRST THING loo up bucking, this happen on NA skis too.
    Fiberglass reinforcement for tunnel
    New impeller housing (just on the edge of starting to expand) or at least get ready for it
    A ride plate from Jim
    New bilge pump, even if yours still works...a new one will work longer, and when it blows, it will pop fuses and disable the ski. I dont know why but a burnt up bulge pump will cause your fuel pump fuse to pop and your running voltage to read 12.2-12.9 volts.
    If the shoe pump seal hasn't been done, doo it ASAP
    transom seal, same goes with shoe, if its not done already, it'll need it. When it breaks, if you're on the water, your ski will fill up with water. At first, you bilge will pump it out and you wont know about, till it get so bad...then your ski sins...

    Oil filter, New one to eliminate rust leaks....
    R and D air filter, clean it every year
    Get ready to replace the steering and reverse cables. I do these every 2 years on my skis no matter what...There will NEVER be a 'loss of control' issue on my skis, unless its the ding dong on it.

    Consider sponson kit for better steering
    Get a new set of spark plugs, and keep a second set on hand
    Take "red and tacky" grease from napa and grease the crap out of your coils, rub some on the raised ribs on the end of the coil and then also on the seal up on top.
    Di electric grease on everything

  8. #8
    Thanks for the input Tony. $hi+, I just want to screw around on the thing. I'm going to change the oil, make sure everything is lubed up and get a new air filter. I'll see where it goes from there. I have always been really bad about hot rodding everything I get before I even run it long enough to get a feel for it then want more when there is nothing left but big buck mods. My last 10 sec Z06 was a good example.

  9. #9
    Only a few of those were mods, some of those are needed to keep it from sinking. Big car nut myself. I remember my buddies Z0 6 back in the days when I lived in gainesville. FANTASTIC car, minus the crank pulley bending and leaving us stranded one day in st augustine

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