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  1. #1

    95 sl 750 carb issue.

    Looking at buying a 95 sl 750. Guys says it runs great but u sometimes have to pull choke when taking off. After it gets going it runs great he says. He sent me a video of it running on the hose and it ran fine, but i know that doesnt tell the whole story. I said it might be running lean and he said no because it idles fine. So is that true that if it is idling great it isnt running lean? He said he just hasnt ran it since last year and the carbs are a lil gummed up. He ran it some after putting seafoam in it, and he said that it was helping. I just dont wanna buy something and burn up a piston. So could it be that its just needs the carb cleaned up? Any help would be appreciated.


  2. #2
    My recommendation is to assume that the ski is original. If so, plan on rebuilding entire fuel system, the thru bearing, & jet pump. Maybe the electrical box too. I did same rebuilds & spent around $400 on parts. It's not hard to do.

    Definitely do a compression test before you buy. Bad compression = top end rebuild.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by JonJet View Post
    My recommendation is to assume that the ski is original. If so, plan on rebuilding entire fuel system, the thru bearing, & jet pump. Maybe the electrical box too. I did same rebuilds & spent around $400 on parts. It's not hard to do.

    Definitely do a compression test before you buy. Bad compression = top end rebuild.
    Ok thanks. I was planning on doing a compression test. Learned my lesson on that before. Whats the correct psi for tge 95 sl 750?

  4. #4
    Kerminator's Avatar
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    You just want to make sure the numbers from each cylinder are close to being even. If it is above 120psi for each cylinder that would be an ok accurate reading. I wouldn't want to get anything below 110 though.

    I would rebuild the carbs and run new fuel lines as the old tempo lines can gum up the carbs. If it runs better with the choke on at open throttle, I would possibly guess that their is am air leak somewhere between the intake of the case and the carbs. The motor is getting extra oxygen and not enough fuel, helping when the carbs are choked off.

    good luck

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Kerminator View Post
    You just want to make sure the numbers from each cylinder are close to being even. If it is above 120psi for each cylinder that would be an ok accurate reading. I wouldn't want to get anything below 110 though.

    I would rebuild the carbs and run new fuel lines as the old tempo lines can gum up the carbs. If it runs better with the choke on at open throttle, I would possibly guess that their is am air leak somewhere between the intake of the case and the carbs. The motor is getting extra oxygen and not enough fuel, helping when the carbs are choked off.

    good luck
    He says it only needs choke when u first take off. Once u get going it will run fine without the choke and keep doing so until u come to a complete stop. Then u have to use choke again to take off.

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Regardless of the current status, you want to rebuild the fuel system, upgrade to a three outlet pump, and rebuild the carbs. The low speed screws may need to be adjusted, but this likely is because the fuel system need refurbished.

  7. #7
    Ok thanks. Might pass on it then. Sounds like more work than i am wanting to do. He was only asking $800, so thats why i was considering it.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polarismike1969 View Post
    ... Sounds like more work than i am wanting to do.

    He was only asking $800, so thats why i was considering it.
    Regardless of brand, if you are considering the purchase of twenty year old personal watercraft there will be need for maintanence.

    They all use carburetors which need to be cleaned and rebuilt from time to time. Old fuel hoses age and need replacement. Rubber parts dry out and must be replaced. Mechanical stuff wears out, needs adjustment, and so on.

    Even well kept machines will have issues, either right now or sometime later. The only thing that can make an old PWC reliable is the effort you put into it to make it reliable.

    The folks on this forum know the Polaris watercraft well. The commonly required maintenance items are well known and documented. Common problems are described along with the typical repairs needed.

    For any other brand of watercraft there will also be known issues, common repairs, and recommended upgrades.

    If doing the recommended maintenance and upgrades results in a reliable watercraft that can run well for years, what is that worth to you?

  9. #9
    Yeah thats a good point. I am meeting him Sunday to check it out and test ride it. Guess i will decide what i wanna do after that. Thanks for all the help.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polarismike1969 View Post
    Yeah thats a good point. I am meeting him Sunday to check it out and test ride it. Guess i will decide what i wanna do after that. Thanks for all the help.
    See my signature links for. A list of things to check when considering the purchase of an older personal watercraft. Most of the list is not Polaris specific.

    My own approach to these old machines is to assume almost everything will need some attention, regardless of how well it seems to be running. In fact, having things obviously wrong is preferred. It reduces the purchase price but does not change the amount of work required.

    For example, I would expect and assume that the through-hull bearing should be rebuilt with new seals and bushings. If the bearing is leaking under the driveshaft at time of purchase there is no question from the seller that it needs repair, so downward price pressure. Same for the jet pump bearings. If the jet pump is making grinding noises then it needs new bearings. Even if it isn't you still want to remove the pump and inspect everything before using it yourself.

    Same for the carburetors, if the engine runs poorly the seller will know the carbs need rebuild, with new genuine OEM carb kits. Do not use aftermarket carb kits, they tend to cause issues.

    What you do want is the engine to have good compression numbers with all cylinders within 5% of each other. Throttle held wide open, strong battery. Check each cylinder more than once, the numbers should be consistent.

    The test ride is of less importance than the on land inspection. Sure, it is nice to get on and feel how it handles and accelerates. Given the problems you have described already it is likely to be less impressive than it would be once all the issues have been addressed.

    Do not run it hard for long time periods. These engines do not tolerate fuel system and carburetor problems, there is a real risk of engine damage from piston lean burn. Keep it under 30 seconds at high power levels, just ride it enough to decide you like the handling and overall 'feel' of the hull.

    If the engine compression is good, the other common problems are typically straightforward to work through and get it running nicely.

    Again, see my signature links for more info.

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