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  1. #1

    2002 polaris freedom. .turn over but won't crank

    I just bought a 2002 polaris freedom. Rebuilt carb. Cranked up and ran. Now it will not start up. Replaced ingine coil. Same issue turning over but won't start.


  2. #2
    Getting 4.6 vlts to brand new coil on black and white wires. But no fire out of coils. How much voltage should be going to black and white wires? What do I test next?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by christidouthit View Post
    Getting 4.6 vlts to brand new coil on black and white wires. But no fire out of coils. How much voltage should be going to black and white wires? What do I test next?
    Check battery voltage while cranking. If it does not stay well above 10.6 volts then you will not have spark.

    Ignition primary coil pulse from the CDI is measured in hundreds of volts when the ignition is firing normally.

  4. #4
    Getting 12.6 to cdi while cranking, only getting 4.6 to coil. Why?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by christidouthit View Post
    Getting 12.6 to cdi while cranking ...
    12.6 seems almost too high for a battery during cranking. Is your battery exceptionally strong?

    Where are you measuring the voltage at?

  6. #6
    Battery is good. At Red and purple wires

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by christidouthit View Post
    Battery is good. At Red and purple wires


    Just to make sure we are on the same page;

    Black meter probe to black wire terminal inside electrical box. Red meter probe to CDI module stubby wire that is Red with Purple strip. That Red/Purple wire is likely connected to an Orange terminal on the terminal board.

    Meter set to DC volts. Press and hold Start button and monitor the voltage.

  8. #8
    Yes sir..12.6 to cdi .. 4.6 out of cdi (black and white wires ) to coil

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by christidouthit View Post
    Yes sir..12.6 to cdi .. 4.6 out of cdi (black and white wires ) to coil
    So the CDI is not firing the ignition coils.

    We would use the same diagnostic process as any other no-spark condition. There is no direct test for the CDI, so what we do is check everything around the CDI that affects the CDI. Battery voltage is an important one, and very common source of trouble, so we started there.

    A visual check that every wire in the electrical box is actually connected to the correct color coded and marked terminal.

    Zero corrosion on the terminals or the terminal board, including on the back side of the board.

    Check that the black terminals inside the electrical box measure zero ohms to the engine case. Disconnect all battery negative post cable connections for this test.

    Next would be check of the stator. Disconnect the stator cable wire ends inside the electrical box (all of them, including black) and check each coil for correct ohms. See my signature links for the stator electrical specs for your engine.

    Next check the Hall Effect sensors. This test requires temporary connection of a 9 volt battery and an ohmeter. The engine crankshaft is then slowly rotated by hand while watching for a sudden change in ohms reading (from very high ohms to very low ohms) for the first sensor. Check each sensor in turn.

    Also check that none of the Hall Effect sensor wires are shorted to engine ground.

    If all the above is correct, we turn back to the CDI. Reconnect the stator wires as per normal. Also tap the red meter probe into the Brown wire at the bullet connector. Black meter probe to Hall Effect sensor common ground (gray? bullet). Lanyard in place, crank engine and monitor voltage on Brown output from CDI. Should show 8 volts DC coming from the CDI and powering the Hall Effect sensors. If no 8 volts then the sensors will not function and there will be no spark.

    If there is 8 volts coming from the CDI then the Hall Effect sensors should be triggering for spark from the CDI. If the stator coils are all good and the flywheel magnets are intact then the CDI should be firing the ignition coil. This is a capacitive discharge ignition so the voltage spike into each coil is a couple hundred volts.

    Ohm check the ignition coils primary and secondary ohms to engine ground.

    If you have done all the above checks and there is still no ignition then the CDI becomes the primary suspect.

  10. #10
    Thank you for your help. Everything checks out. But...removed spark plugs and rear piston has no compression. Is there a link where I can get a full blown view of the set up of this engine?

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