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  1. #1

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    No start. But will run??

    I have recently replaced the TPS computer and stator in my txi in effort to get running after breakdown last year. The engine will crank and runs great once started but didn't start unless i spray a little fluid into the intake. After that runs normal. Any ideas? Temp sensor was suggested. ......also the start stop module seems faulty as well. Once running i need to remove key to stop.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Will it start if primed with gasoline? Not starting fluid, actual gasoline.

    If yes, connect a voltmeter to a white/red wire. Do not unplug any fuel injectors, find some other place to tap into white/red. Black meter probe to engine ground. What DC voltage do you measure when the engine is cranking but not yet started?

  3. #3
    Yes start with gasoline I'll check voltage now

  4. #4
    Ok just rechecked voltage I'm only getting around 9 volts at white/red wire I think that's the issue right isn't it supposed to be up around 20?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calarco301 View Post
    Ok just rechecked voltage I'm only getting around 9 volts at white/red wire I think that's the issue right isn't it supposed to be up around 20?
    While cranking it should be a little above 20 volts, typically.

    Since it will run when primed, this means the weak voltage is most likely caused by a problem with the magneto stator coils, the flywheel magnets, or the EMM power section.

    The EMM can fire the spark plugs despite the weak voltage but it cannot pulse the fuel injectors. This is why when primed with gasoline it starts. Once the RPM gets high enough after priming and starting the voltage generated rises higher than the minimum 20 volts and the injectors can now keep the engine running.

    I would next ohm test the five stator coils. Unplug the 12-pin connector from the EMM and check for correct coil ohms (very low ohm spec) and check that none of the coils is shorted to engine ground. If that is all good then check the AC voltage from each coil while cranking the engine.

  6. #6
    Just replaced stator is it more likely computer issue? What should I get from each coil now and how do I test it?

  7. #7
    Update: injectors are reading only 30-31 volts while running. Stator all pins read oL to engine ground. Flywheel magnets all looked good when I put stator in could this still be issue or is it likely my in warranty EMM

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calarco301 View Post
    Update: injectors are reading only 30-31 volts while running.

    Stator all pins read oL to engine ground.
    Flywheel magnets all looked good when I put stator in could this still be issue or is it likely my in warranty EMM
    You have tested the non-EMM parts of the system, so the EMM looks like it may have an issue.

    Other than the wire harness the only other component involved in producing injector voltage is the fist sized external capacitor. These are generally reliable.

  9. #9
    So after I finally got a chance I borrowed a working computer from my twin machine. Still same no start issue. Could it be something wrong with fly wheel magnets that was un noticeable our at least not noticed by me. I did look they seemed fine.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calarco301 View Post
    So after I finally got a chance I borrowed a working computer from my twin machine. Still same no start issue. Could it be something wrong with fly wheel magnets that was un noticeable our at least not noticed by me. I did look they seemed fine.
    I did not mention the external capacitor, which is part of the wiring harness.

    I recently had a Ficht capacitor with a loose screw on the connection post. Was causing weird symptoms.

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