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  1. #1

    1998 ZXI 1100 takes long to get started

    I have a 1998 ZXI 1100 that can be hard to start, especially when it's cold or after sitting for a few days. Once it starts it runs fine, good performance and no noises. Compression, when cold, is in the 110-115 range across the board. It starts just fine after I get it running.

    I'm currently thinking there's a small air leak on the intake side, maybe an intake gasket or a crank seal. What are some common problems on these? I'm planning on getting it runninh on a hose and spraying some carb cleaner on the intake to see if the revs spike up from a leak. Any other suggestions?


  2. #2
    Have you tried holding the choke all the way out when starting?. Hold the choke knob all the way out and press starter button until it fires into life,

  3. #3
    steve45's Avatar
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    Very common. The fuel drains back into the tank, which means that the fuel pump has to suck it back up to the carbs.

    The best solution is to install a primer. However, on that model, DO NOT REMOVE THE CHOKES! They are required for proper fuel metering.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the quick answers. Is there a primer kit available or do I have to improvise?

  5. #5
    Found a kit on ebay, I'll give it a try

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    That's where I get mine. Just do NOT remove the chokes like the instructions say. You can rig up a nozzle arrangement to squirt into the top of the carb, or into the intake manifold.

    If you put the nozzle above the carbs, you'll probably have to remove the hoses to remove the flame arrestor/carbs, but you can use one of those little rubber squeeze bulbs like on weedeaters. Put them below the carbs and you MUST use the plunger type pump with a check valve in it because the squeeze bulb will flow all the time due to engine vacuum.

  7. #7
    I drilled and tapped then installed a nipple on my ultra 150 right above the choke plates. Like steve said do not remove the choke plates. You only need to get fuel to one cylinder.

    I made my own kit, copper T Got of amazon. Purchased some small ball type primer like a weed wacker would have. Then 1/8th line and a nice nipple that threads into the carb body. Cost no more then 30 bucks and way better quality then those ebay kits.

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    the problem here is that these priming solutions may not hold up inside the hull during operation. Bulbs are not exposed to the kind of heat you get in a hull.

    If you do not want to do a proper repair, drill a small hole in the flame arrestor directly over one of the carbs and use a picnic mustard bottle with a little premix in it to prime up the engine.

    Using raw fuel will increase engine wear, which is another reason I don't like primers.

    then there is the fire thing.....

    check the fuel tank vents also, if the tank isn't allowed to build pressure, starting is harder on some skis.

  9. #9
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    I mount mine right in the glove box, doesn't get touched by heat and is easy accessible. My fuel is never raw, always add an ounce per gallon.
    Last edited by turboman412; 06-17-2015 at 10:37 AM.

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  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    the problem here is that these priming solutions may not hold up inside the hull during operation. Bulbs are not exposed to the kind of heat you get in a hull.

    If you do not want to do a proper repair, drill a small hole in the flame arrestor directly over one of the carbs and use a picnic mustard bottle with a little premix in it to prime up the engine.

    Using raw fuel will increase engine wear, which is another reason I don't like primers.

    then there is the fire thing.....

    check the fuel tank vents also, if the tank isn't allowed to build pressure, starting is harder on some skis.
    Does the oil injection also drain back into the tank? I would think cranking on the engine without oil would also be bad for it.

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