Oil to water heat exchanger in the turbo oil feed line? Another MSX150 idea.....

[hill160881]

After talking to many people more knowledgable about the k series turbo the reason they crap out so quick when run hard is the thrust oil bearing gets hot and damages the oil and itself. I have also noticed the oil is really hot when I check it after a hard ride. A little hotter than I feel is good.

So so I am thinking of using one of these and using a small amount of water from the system and running the extra out an external pisser tube in the tunnel. It would cool the oil prior to going into the turbo.in the line going from the head to the turbo.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...eat_Exchangers

Any thoughts?

they look like this and start at 4"x2"x2.75" core size on up.

[hill160881]

Specs

[HiPeRcO]

Use synthetic oil and don't worry about it, that's what it's for (high tempetature)

[hill160881]

Trust me when I say it is not enough for this application. These turbos don't usually last past 100-150 hours before a rebuild is recomended. And I want to push mine to 20+ psi..... Over the recomended pressure for this turbo. My oil is shot after about 15-20 min of wot running. When I keep it below 10 psi it last much much longer.

[Kosh]

If you want the bearing housing cool hook it up to the raw water system!
Most owners will never think twice about an instant shut off from WOT operation.

[hill160881]

Ya these skis need a cool down period after a hard run.

I think I would need to use the hydrospace open loop exhaust manifold to do this. It's not going to keep the oil from getting dammaged during wot runs. The heat is built in the bearing and my belief is that cooling the oil prior to entering the turbo may prevent this.

[ripcuda]

Extra cooling of the oil supply to the turbo surely couldn't hurt. And there is easy to get to freshwater plumbing in that area coming out of the oil tank going to the exhaust manifold. How much water does the exhaust water injector flow? That would be an easy way to plumb it in... just not sure if flows much.

Interesting idea.

Cheers!

[Mike Greenwood]

Kinda new to this, but I like the idea

[Mike Greenwood]

How are you determining the oil to be "shot?" A simple finger to finger viscosity test of pull from 3/16"? Let me/us know. As I understand it, and I work for the ceo of UNIT CORP. he states oil is good until it looses a viscosity/carbon test. Meaning that you can pull the dipstick and take that sample between two fingers. As you pull your fingers apart, you should see oil flow between the two of them foe at least 3/16"! Period!

[hill160881]

Tats a total bs way to test oil. I use a lab but the color tells the tell. When the polymers (plastic) used in winter weight oils melt they turn a darker color. Carbon, aluminum, copper, iron all turn the oil black. So many different things color the oil and can destroy the oil. Also fuel contamination is hard to see but destroys the viscosity and damages the polymers(plastic) The best way is a lab like black stone. It's 25 bucks plus shipping.