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  1. #1

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    installing motor in msx 150

    I'm almost ready to put my motor back into my msx 150 after rebuilding it with lots of advice from this forum. The problem is I bought the machine with the engine already yanked and would like to know what I can bolt to the engine now with it on the bench and what has to be installed with the engine in the hull. Exhaust /intake / turbo/ cooling system etc.... pics would be useful too. Thanks in advance!


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Strap the intercooler up on top of fuel tank in the hull. Leave the heat exchanger (plus lower mount), intake manifold, coolant jug, exhaust/turbo manifold off.

    The PTO plate/coupler, rear engine mount, oil tanks can all go on.
    The front mag/stator, IC mount, oil cooler, volt reg can all go on.

    Make sure you put the driveshaft in (if ever removed)... you did rebuild the driveshaft bearing/seals on the Through-hull carrier, right? Do it now while the engine is out. Put all that back in before putting the engine back in.

    Put the waterbox and resonator in the hull before the engine too.

    With hoist... lower engine... tipped far to the left side to tuck in the left-side engine cradle mounts in the seat hole... then lower and get right-side in the hole... then level and position over mounts. Be careful not to lower the engines weight onto the driveshaft coupler.

    Rotate engine so exhaust studs face more rearward... then slide the exhaust/turbo manifold on the studs (don't forget gaskets). Rotate back into position. Lower on to mounts. You can lift the right side up a tad to make getting the lower heat exchanger bracket on easier. It's a PITA. Then put in the heat exchanger (don't forget rubber cushion strips on the xchanger mount) and fanagle the intake manifold into place (big PITA). Don't loose the o-rings out of the intake manifold runners (where it bolts to head). Getting all the pieces to line up and the heat exchanger long bolt in to clamp intake mani to lower heat exchanger bracket is a challenge. But it will all go together.

    That's the main part... rest is plumbing, lots of hose clamps, electrical, and sitting the IC back into place.

    Good luck!

    Cheers!

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the pointers

  4. #4

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    Well I finally got it back together and went on my maiden voyage yesterday for Canada day. I put on 44 miles and 2.4 hours. It ran smooth and quiet and started great all day. I have a few issues tho. First it's constantly going into over boost if I punch it and then the engine light comes on and I'm limited to 4900rpm until I restart. Then at the end of the day the overheat light flashed, I checked the bottle and it was at the very buttom so I had to add a tiny bit of coolant. Hopefully there was just some air bubbles that were in the system. The oil looked perfect with no signs of antifreeze. My waste gate arm moves freely and the hoses are not leaking from the turbo and the solenoid. I can the hear the bov as well releasing air when I let off too. If I'm easy on the throttle and don't max out the boost indicator it will run perfect the whole time. Twice yesterday it didn't go into limp mode when I floored it and was great for the 2 seconds I held it. ( It's a new motor and I want to break it in properly). I do have the flash done by precision as well so I was thinking maybe the ecu has to relearn the added boost too but after 20 times of going into over boost maybe that's not it. Any ideas of what to check next? Is the solenoid for the wast gate really common to fail? A nice bonus was when I first powered up the ski it has only 35 hours on it as it has been blown up for 8 years lol. Thank for any advice!

  5. #5
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Boost valves are known to fail, especially the factory original type. Do you have the one mounted to the valve cover? (That is the new type). If not, upgrade to the new type, discussed here: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=231298

  6. #6

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    I have a spare solenoid off another craft but it won't be any newer than the original and it's not on the valve cover so I'm guessing it's the old style. I think I have a solenoid from a fst polaris sled. Would that be the newer style or the same as what I have already? Is there any way to troubleshoot these solenoids? Thanks on advance!

  7. #7
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Congrats! That's no small feat rebuilding and reinstalling a Weber. And it runs!

    Do a compression test now you've run the motor some. What do you got?

    The overheat warning and low coolant jug concern me. Any air pockets should have been evacuated pretty soon after the engine came up to temps and the thermostat opened. The coolant jug is the system high point. But let's hope that was just the case. Top off the coolant jug and keep and eagle eye on the level. If it continues to drop or you get another overheat warning... something is not right. But good you have clear oil... a blown headgasket would contaminate both oil and coolant with each other. Make sure your jetpump freshwater pickup screen is clear.

    Yeah... the wastegate solenoid (aka boost valve) looks to be suspect based on your descriptions (freely moving wastegate). The newer designed one that mounts on bracket off valve cover seems much more dependable.

    Your ECU (even reflashed) doesn't need to learn boost or anything. It does need to learn the throttle mapping for the electronic throttlebody (ETB)... but sounds like it's done that fine... since it starts, idles and accelerates well.

    Watch your oil level. Check it when engine hot... then somewhere between MIN-MAX... but not all the way at MAX is best. When checking cold (after 30 second startup)... should just be barely on the tip of the dipstick.

    Cheers!

  8. #8

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    Yes it was very difficult especially since I bought it with the engine already removed lol and other than reading the horror stories on here I had no idea how bad it would be to install. Getting the exhaust/ turbo was the worst for me. I ended up removing the long studs and putting them in the manifold and going from there. The low coolant worried me too as it was it was at about the 2 hours of running time. Hopefully it was just a bubble. I am now running the updated oil tank so I guess it could be a hose I am just really hoping it's not a headgasket because I'm not pulling this engine again and I really can't afford to spend much more money on it this year. It's already cost alot more than planned lol. I will say tho its a beautiful Machine to drive and handled great and seems really good on fuel so far .

  9. #9
    hill160881's Avatar
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    Torque the head to 62-65 foot pounds NOW.

    the coolant level is concerning.

  10. #10

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    I checked the compression tonight and I got 142 psi on both cylinders. I pulled the valve cover and rear torqued to 65 foot pounds. I pumped some oil out and I see no signs of antifreeze so I guess that's good but I'm pretty paranoid now of if there is an issue. I will do a leak down this weekend and check the plumbing to see of any possible leaks. I will also do a full oil /filter change and check oil filter for anything bad lol. I will keep you guys posted of my findings. Thanks for your help.

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