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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2015

    1997 1100 STX Sitting for 8 Years

    I bought a 1997 1100 STX that was sitting on a two place trailer for 8 a forest, but at least it was covered. I brought it home and cleaned it up. I put some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and they turned over very well. I drained all the gas I could and replaced the fuel filter. I was able to get it started by pouring a little gas down the carb throats, and after a couple of times it was starting and idling on its own very well.

    I blew out the cooling lines to included the stator cooling lines...the little pisser where the temp sender was clogged full of crap. The fuel vent hose was clogged full of crap. So I fired it up on the hose and it seemed to rev out ok, so I dumped it in the water. It ran nearly perfect for almost an hour...too good to be true actually. It then started running on what seemed to be only two cylinders at best.

    Compression test revealed about 122psi with all three. So I checked the spark, which also seemed fine. I put it back on the trailer this morning thinking I'd need to address the carbs. I removed the flame arrestor cover and to my astonishment the ducts/tubes in the flame arrestor case had disintegrated and large chunks were clogging two of the carb throats. They were all intact when I put gas down the throats to get it started initially, so they must have been brittle and fell apart in that first hour of running.

    I'll replace the ducts and hope for the best.
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  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Yep, they get brittle and go bad.

    While you're working on it, remove one of the hoses that goes to the stator cooling chamber under the oil pump. Gently blow through it to make sure it's not plugged, this is common. If it's plugged, order the two O-rings that go under the oil pump mounting plate, # 92055-1284 and # 92055-3739.

    I would highly suggest that you pull the entire stator cover off and replace the oil pump drive coupling bearings. Don't buy from Kawasaki, rather, go to a bearing shop and buy (2) 6901 2RS bearings.

    I would also suggest that you replace the oil lines with polyurethane hose and secure with stainless steel safety wire. The original hose gets brittle with age and cracks.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2015
    My new ducts arrived today, and they are not like the originals. There is a little nub that I assume is for a different style flame arrestor case. Has anyone replaced with this aftermarket duct before, and should I trim the little nub so at least the duct fits flush inside the flame arrestor case?
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  4. #4

    Join Date
    May 2015
    I trimmed the nub so the duct fit flush. Reinstalled everything and so far so good. Running pretty well The fuel gauge is intermittent so I'm afraid the bottom float must be getting hung up or isn't floating well anymore.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Well, it started running poorly the other day. I narrowed it down to a problem with the front cylinder, so before I got too far I checked compression again. Sure enough it was only 90psi whereas the others were about 125psi. I realize it's a long shot, but anybody ever have a blown head gasket cause the low compression? I'm just looking for some glimmer of hope before I tear it apart....if I tear it apart. I might just part it out if it needs a top end rebuild.

  6. #6
    DavidR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Top end is cheap and you could just do the one cylinder if needed.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2015
    True, I once did a 650SX top end without removing the engine, but I think I'd probably struggle trying to make that happen with a three cylinder. The major problem is my wife wasn't on board at all with this purchase, even though I've spent more on gas/oil the last two months than I spent for the jet ski itself. Plus I just bought a used ShoreStation brand lift that I spent more on than the jet ski and trailer combined! But I'm not worried about that lift purchase, as I can sell it for more than I paid tomorrow if I had to.

    I really think the carbs should be addressed as well, but I'm very inexperienced with carb rebuilding and haven't found the right tutorial yet to give me the confidence to tackle them.

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