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  1. #1

    Gp1200R not running right in water. What to check for now?

    Hello all I'm new to the forum and have a problem with a newly acquired 2002 1200r. I bought it last year with a bad cylinder. Well I finally got around to fixing it and now I find out it doesn't run right in water. I put on a new piston and rings, had a cylinder from another 1200r glass beaded to clean it up a little and the install went great. I have about 120 psi on all cylinders, spark on all cylinders, and it runs mint out of water. Also I went premixed on the ski. After I installed everything I ran it for an hour on the hose and re checked everything and it was perfect. So I launched the ski and started to go down my canal when I got out on the bay I opened it up and it took off perfect... For 10 seconds then started dying out like I was out of gas so I filled it up at my buddies house and tried again and it still ran terribly. Now I'm thinking I blew a cylinder up some I re tested compression and spark and they were perfect so I pulled the ski out and it ran fine again it when I put it in the water runs like crap. I tried messing with the choke and still no change. What could be wrong?


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Kingfisher, OK
    Posts
    89
    Carb issue or air leak are the most common things to go wrong from what I have read. We're the carbs rebuilt? Did you pressure test the motor after you repaired the cylinder?

  3. #3
    Prism's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    "New" Jersey
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    Failed cat converter, carbs gunked up, or fuel flapper in tank warped. Also verify the powervalves are operating correctly.

  4. #4
    I just pulled the carbs off I'm going to order the rebuild kits and try my hand at rebuilding them. The ski has a d plate and chip along with wave eater clips. The power valves I hear the solenoid working and see them turning when I start the ski so I'm assuming they are working. I'm going to also check out the flapper I just read about that today. Anyone know how hard it is to rebuild the carbs? Any tips or tricks to doing it? I'm going to order genuine mikuni kits with needle and seats.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Mkpn24 View Post
    I just pulled the carbs off I'm going to order the rebuild kits and try my hand at rebuilding them. The ski has a d plate and chip along with wave eater clips. The power valves I hear the solenoid working and see them turning when I start the ski so I'm assuming they are working. I'm going to also check out the flapper I just read about that today. Anyone know how hard it is to rebuild the carbs? Any tips or tricks to doing it? I'm going to order genuine mikuni kits with needle and seats.

    Not sure if its in the budget, but sending the carbs off to http://wfoperformance.net would be a fantastic idea. No guess work and Rich is the man.

  6. #6
    I'm not against paying to get it done it's just one of those things I feel like I should know how to do. I'm used to doing everything myself so I think I'm going to try and tackle this job. I am a very mechanic person so I don't think it should be to much of an issue.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Kingfisher, OK
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    89
    Look up posts by osidebill. He has past away but left tons of info. He has some sticky posts in the how to section that are very helpful with pictures.
    Last edited by txredxj; 06-14-2015 at 08:42 PM.

  8. #8
    Yes I have looked up many post by a lot of members here one thing I don't know is if I just do a basic rebuild do I need to touch the stock jets at all? Is there a need to mess with the adjustments if I don't have to.

  9. #9
    Check the carb returns. They are a tiny hole and clog easily esp with the ethanol when it sits. Theres a mod you can do drilling the returns and installing a jet in last return.

  10. #10
    Huntersthmsn74's Avatar
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    Apr 2015
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    Naples, FL
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    most likely the carbs. look up osidebills specs and follow according to your setup. def. do the drilled return mod. instead of tapping the last return elbow, buy a 1/4in fuel coupling from your local auto parts store and tap and install the 95g jet in that and spice in about 10in after for easier access later. you can just grab the fuel return hose and check it without having to remove the exhaust. I highly recommend doing the aftermarket flame arrestors and t-handle adjusters to be able to dial the ski in. Also, the older the carbs get the throttle has a tendency to stick when it gets hot, so while you have the carbs out pull the butterflies ans sand down the dowel that holds them and grease them up so they dont stick.

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