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  1. #1

    99 slx 1050 Fuel leaking out of rear carb running poorly

    My never ending slx prodject had thrown another curve ball at me. She started up for the first time after engine replacement which included an updated stator and cdi. I static timed the flywheel , put on all new fuel lines and rebuilt the carbs. On first start I had a small backfire and a slight bog the first time I gave it throttle then smoothed out and ran pretty good. The next day I started her up again and found poor throttle response and I think a misfire. I have great spark on all three cylinders and good compression. I'm pretty sure I have a fuel problem. I noticed when the engine is not running I have a fuel drip about every 2 seconds out of the center of the rear carb. I also noticed smoke coming out of the rear cylinder when the plug is out. No other cylinder does this. I used SBT rebuild kits and have to admit I'm not an experienced carburetor rebuilder. What could I have messed up? Checkout my pics and you'll see the leak and smoke. Any help will be much appreciated.
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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    When you get the carburetor dripping fixed, you may want to check the intake reeds for the rear cylinder. Sometimes a backfire can damage the reeds.

    Did you unplug the spark plug wires between the successful test run and the not so good test? If so, make sure you have the center and rear spark plug wires not swapped.

    A friend's red engine was backfiring with swapped firing order. I later discovered the backfire had torn the rear crank shaft seals open.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    When you get the carburetor dripping fixed, you may want to check the intake reeds for the rear cylinder. Sometimes a backfire can damage the reeds.

    Did you unplug the spark plug wires between the successful test run and the not so good test? If so, make sure you have the center and rear spark plug wires not swapped.

    A friend's red engine was backfiring with swapped firing order. I later discovered the backfire had torn the rear crank shaft seals open.
    I did not swap the wires in between runs. I tried swapping the center and rear wires when it was running poorly and the engine ran worse. I'll definitely check the reeds when I take the carbs back out. Any idea of what I may have done to cause a consistent fuel drip? I just want to know what to look for. I also changed all the needles and seats.

  4. #4
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    A general rule, these carbs need to be rebuilt with Genuine Keihin Carb parts, that can be found at Watcon owned by John Zigler....id start by re-rebuilding the carbs, using the parts that get sent to you from John. also make sure all your carb settings as correct, as well as everything else K447 had to say.

  5. #5
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Polaris Arm Height

    I would guess that the only way fuel can continuously leak is if it's getting by the needle and seat. When replacing the needle and seat, did you take extra care to set the needle arm height correctly?
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  7. #6
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    I would guess that the only way fuel can continuously leak is if it's getting by the needle and seat. When replacing the needle and seat, did you take extra care to set the needle arm height correctly?

    Or a damaged/leaking needle and seat.

  8. #7
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Matrix View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    I would guess that the only way fuel can continuously leak is if it's getting by the needle and seat. When replacing the needle and seat, did you take extra care to set the needle arm height correctly?

    Or a damaged/leaking needle and seat.
    Exactly. Something is allowing the fuel to get by the needle tip, although he did say that the needle and seat are brand-new.
    Last edited by CrazyA; 06-14-2015 at 02:35 PM.

  9. #8
    I took the carb apart today. I think the fork that holds the needle in place is slightly bent. After working the needle up and down I'm able to push the needle down a hair more when the needle is at rest. I tweeked it a little and it seems to be sealing now. I'll test them tomorrow and see how it goes.

    Thanks for for all the help. Hope this gets me in the water.

  10. #9
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    I would guess that the only way fuel can continuously leak is if it's getting by the needle and seat. When replacing the needle and seat, did you take extra care to set the needle arm height correctly?
    Did you do this? The height of the arm is critical to proper running

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Matrix View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    I would guess that the only way fuel can continuously leak is if it's getting by the needle and seat. When replacing the needle and seat, did you take extra care to set the needle arm height correctly?
    Did you do this? The height of the arm is critical to proper running
    I didn't but I'm going to tear them down tomorrow and go over everything. Do I use a feeler gauge to check this? The height would be changed with a different spring height correct? I had gas running through these carbs last year but never got the engine running because of a bad stator. I put stabilizer in the gas and they sat through the winter. I was shocked to find so much gunk inside what I thought were clean carbs. Time to start over and try again.

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