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  1. #1
    SJ-(KY)'s Avatar
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    GPR 1300 Best top speed setup for stock trim tabs and sponsons?

    Hey guys I've read all the 1300 speed secrets etc etc and have a R&D grate and ride plate that will be here next week. But I'm going riding this weekend and wanted to know with my stock IG and RP what is the best speed set up like I assume the sponsons all the way up and how much shim if any under the factory trim tabs? Any help would be much appreciated!


  2. #2
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    No trim needed if the engine is strong, stock numbers should range around 64 to 67 mph. Do realize that your speedometer will read normally about 4/5 mph more than actual. This is normal. Once you get settled in, might consider a cheap GPS, like Garmin E-Trex 10. They can be had for less than $100. After the bolt on mods, numbers will start to go up and 65 to 68 mph gps. will be range. Then as you continue to chase speed, and have heads milled & timing advance with a key way, your speeds will range 69 to 71. Then if you port and change reeds if real lucky you can get mid 70's to 80 mph. Well this is my 2 cents. LOL. Good Luck

  3. #3
    SJ-(KY)'s Avatar
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    Thank you I appreciate it! Just wanting to get a handle on it with hull mods at first.. Yes I already use a gps and the ski completely stock with the factory sponsons all the way up has gps'd 64.8 but I've heard guys having good results putting .100 shim under trim tabs so I was just looking for some feed back..

  4. #4
    Smokes's Avatar
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    First thing you need is a intake grate and a pump plugkit then a plate.......stock tabs can be shimmed after that and stock sponsons stepped and that will get you going.

  5. #5
    SJ-(KY)'s Avatar
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    Who makes the best pump plug kit? I'll have a ride plate and intake grate here Monday..

  6. #6
    Smokes's Avatar
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    R&d or Riva are the same pretty much and both good for cavitation then bolt on your grate and plate and get a d-plate too if you don't have that in the exhaust already then you run it on gps to see the baseline speed. After that step your stock sponsons and you can play with shims on the tabs and plate to pick up more or get your plate done by Jim and should be good to go. I have this same ski and it don't take much to run good but hull setup is key

  7. #7
    Tired and Old Pale Rider's Avatar
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    well since you read all the go fast secrets I won`t reiterate. But any aftermarket grate on a stock ski will slow it down.
    The R&D plate in it`s untouched form is OK at best. You should have considered one of Island racings plates or Jim`s plates for speed.

    they both need to be tailored to your preference... not to much that is just a bolt on and go expecting big gains... it is the sum of good parts working together that will net you the most...

    64-65 is my bet with those 2 add-ons. impeller will yield good results, and read the forums for ride plate angles and what work.
    riding style, rider weight all plays a part in your set up... even f you copy from the forum, you`ll still need to make adjustments for the best set up for you...

    good luck.

    get yourself a tiny tach so you can monitor the max rpms. also get rid of the plastic tabs and find the metal ones, OEM prefered.
    read up on how to fill the shoe and set it correctly. reinforce the tunnel is a must as is the plate mountings...
    read read read, have fun.


  8. #8
    Smokes's Avatar
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    Other things you will need is a tach and the right prop like pale rider said......
    Last edited by Smokes; 06-14-2015 at 08:00 AM.

  9. #9
    SJ-(KY)'s Avatar
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    Ok got some decent testing in today.. I got lucky an my 1200 grate and ride plate showed up sat so I used the stock shoe for now and sealed it up along with the back of the intake grate to the shoe as well.. I spent about 2.5 hours machining the bottom of the pump and center of the ride plate to get it to fit but I was unsure how to get an accurate measurement on the ride plate for a 5 degree angle... That being said my best pass of the day gps'd 67.4 with 2 bars of fuel. I was pretty pleased but I'm gonna keep tuning that plate until it slows down so I know the sweet spot and pick up a 800 intake grate to see how close to 70 I can get before I do a prop or any power mods..

  10. #10
    Tired and Old Pale Rider's Avatar
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    the more realistic numbers would be at 1/2 full or better... Most people run less fuel to get the highest number for bragging rights but that is not reality when it comes to running your ski. When you could maintain good speed with fuel in the boat is when it counts...

    good luck on the progress!

    use a 4ft level as a straight edge from the keel ahead of the pump shoe to the edge the ride plate. at the edge of the ride plate is where you measure... start out at .750 and work your way up. Low .900`s should suffice for you, anything over an inch will require a lot more machining, and other parts to keep your ski stable at speed. you don`t want loosey goosey, you want the hull to be planted.

    the "nickel" measurement at the shoe, do not externaly seal anything, the shoe gets sealed between the shoe and hull. reinforce your tunnel! make sure you have a step between the shoe and ride plate, do not make it flush.

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