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  1. #1
    2MSX140's's Avatar
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    2003 MSX140 no fuel

    I have a issue with my 03 Msx, Last summer I had a cir clip fall out of the piston (my fault for re-using an old one) and caused a little damage to the cylinder. When I split the cases to clean out the bottom end I accidentally got the flywheel puller bolts into the stator just slightly and nicked some of the coating off of it, the wires looked fine so I took a chance and used it anyway. I dropped some money and sent the top end off to SBT for a cylinder exchange. Everything came back looking perfect. So yesterday I got it all back together and it took a minute or two to fire but it did and seemed to run well. My other MSX fired right up after a rebuild so this immediately set off some concerns. Took It to a lake anyway to start breaking it in and after I shut it off after about 2 minutes of riding it wouldn't fire back up again. Brought it home an discovered the fuel pump wasn't kicking on, 0 fuel pressure. I am getting spark so I grounded the brown wire on the pump harness and it DOES work when you do that. I then remembered that I had damaged the stator slightly so i did a resistance check as per the service manual and this is what got. On the stator harness going to the EMM the resistance between pin #1 and #12 is .7, manual calls for between .1 and .3. The resistance between pin #2 and #11 is also .7 with the manual calling for between .1 and .3. All other pins check out OK. Could this be causing my problems? CPS checks out OK as well. Before the rebuild it did this once before, I pulled the pump out of the fuel tank and made sure everything looked ok and put it back in and it magically worked again, so maybe I'm having connection issues? Any help or input is greatly appreciated as I'm not the best when it comes to electrical issues.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Label each EMM, then temporarily install the EMM from the running machine into the non-running machine. See if it now starts and has proper fuel pressure.

    If you have not done so yet, it is strongly recommended that the Ficht fuel pumps have the internal pressure regulator mounting reinforced. These can fall out at any time and will cause engine damage due to lean burn of the pistons.

  3. #3
    Resident electronics hacker UnityRacing's Avatar
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    I recall the service manual being wrong for every DI stator I have tested. I want to say I constantly got .5 and .7.
    You can confirm by testing the stator on the running machine.

  4. #4
    2MSX140's's Avatar
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    Probably should have said that the other one was sold about a month ago unfortunately, otherwise I would just be switching parts until I found the problem.. and yes the regulator was re-enforced when we first bought it. The machine only has 95 hours on it and the inside is extremely clean, I really hope its not the EMM..

  5. #5
    2MSX140's's Avatar
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    Just spoke to Fitch EMM Repair and he's pointing all fingers at the EMM, we confirmed a good fuel pump and stator. Apparently something inside the EMM is not letting the fuel pump turn on. Any ideas of what it might be inside there? Are there any other EMM repair services out there? To be honest he was kind of rude and short with me so I don't know if I want to send him my stuff or even talk to him again.. Again, really appreciate the help guys!

  6. #6
    CliffsidePM's Avatar
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    Update your profile to where in IL you are. Someone maybe close to you and can help with a know good unit for testing.

    JJ

  7. #7
    2MSX140's's Avatar
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    After twiddling around with the plug that goes to the fuel pump, brown wire mainly, she fired right up and has ran for the rest of the day. seems like I'm having issues with that connection? I guess I'll just keep an eye on it.. thanks for the help!! I will update my location too, good idea!

  8. #8
    2MSX140's's Avatar
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    Back again.. The day after my last post the machine started acting up again, wouldn't start. I went ahead and pulled the fuel pump assembly from the tank and bench tested the fuel pump and it was locked up, wouldn't turn over. Put a new pump in and she started up and ran. Then I took it out to a lake and ran it for a day and started having problems after about 20-30 minutes. Started to run rough cutting in and out and started idling at 3000-3500 RPM. Shut the engine off, checked plugs and compression, all looked good. Engine was at normal usual temperature and had good flow out of the pisser so I have sufficient water flow through the system. Fired it back up and ran perfect or another 5 minutes then started doing the same thing. After it does this I can immediately shut It down and fire it up right away and it will idle normal and run normal for about another 5 minutes. On a cold engine It will take 20 to 30 minutes to start acting up. I read somewhere to unplug the tps and see if it idles normally, did that and idles way to high at around 3500 RPM.. I'm wanting to get a new tps ordered as well as an air temperature sensor because mine is really cut up bad and see if that does anything. What do you guys think?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Unplug the air temp sensor. Hard to get your fingers on the connector tabs, underside of the flame arrester base plate. There are two tabs to release. See if the engine behaves better. Don't beat on it at high speed, just investigate.

  10. #10
    2MSX140's's Avatar
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    As long as I don't run it hard the engine wont overheat or anything like that? l'll give it a try. Forgot I had a spare tps in the toolbox, swapped it in the machine and had same exact symptoms at the same exact times so I think the tps ruled out. Is it possible that as the stator is heating up it starts to act up? Had that happen on an old Arctic Cat sled once..

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