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  1. #1

    MSX 110 project help

    I just bought a MSX 110 turbo project. I say project because it needs some work as coolant or water is infiltrating the oil system. I believe it is just the oil tank as the primary source of problems but this could have also spilled over into other components. The oil is milky and evidently the tank over-pressurized? causing overflow into the bilge. Other than starting with a pressure test of the oil tank, what steps would you take to get this back into proper working order. FYI- she still runs in the current state. I'm thinking I should:
    1. pressure test what I can
    2. repair/replace those components that appear defective
    3. flush and clean the oil paths, coolant paths, and intake paths
    4. new fluids
    Any help or advice is appreciated. I'm a systematic sort of guy.


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to GH. Did you do any research on this jet ski before you dove in the deep end?

    The MSX 110 and MSX 150 pwcs are one-year-only offerings from Polaris. Sadly, they have a lot of common issues. They are expensive to fix. Plus you will likely never find a dealer/mechanic to work on them... so they are a DIY ski. But if you like an adventure, doing your own wrenching and have money to spend...

    First off... start by reading and searching (MSX 150 is same engine... and more common so search for that) for tons of information regarding all the myriad of problems others have experienced in the MSX/Matrix sub section here on GH.

    Here is a link to the excellent Polaris knowledge bank: http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/

    And MSX 110/150 specific info here: http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....10-and-msx-150


    Okay... first off... make sure you have a good STRONG battery. Over 10.6v *while* cranking. Weak batteries cause troubleshooting headaches.

    Next... do a proper compression test of the cylinders. Both plugs out, squeeze throttle, crank until max compression reading. Report you #'s back here... very important.

    I also strongly recommend a Leak-down test... but you need leak-down tester for that. This test is great to see how the rings are seating and if you have a blown headgasket.

    Next... do a proper oil level check. See the links above for the proper method. Too much oil in the tank is very common.

    So you have water in the oil. Water or Coolant? This engine has a closed-loop cooling system with coolant... and also a freshwater system for heat exchange and for cooling the intercooler, oil tank and exhaust. Most likely you have fresh water getting in the oil. This is common with a leaking oil tank or even rolled over ski. But it could be coolant from a blown headgasket. Is there an oil slick in the coolant jug?

    The stock round metal oil tank is known to leak also...as well as have the internal baffle come loose and bounce around and froth the oil. There is an entire upgraded oil tank kit that solves all that. Can get it and all your Weber engine parts from WeberPower.

    You say it runs. Tell us more. Does it start and idle smoothly at 1550rpms? Best to always start it out-of-water with reverse engaged... this limits the engine to 3400 max rpms (in reverse) and prevents the engine from reving to high with no load on it (common). Limit out-of-water running to ~30 seconds to prevent overheating.

    Are you getting any trouble indicators on the display? Check engine flashing?

    How old is the gas? If in doubt... drain the tank. Use fresh PREMIUM fuel only! (non-ethanol even better)

    Okay... lots to do and check. Bring back your results and answers and we'll lead you to some answers. Good luck!

    Cheers!

  3. #3
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    EDIT: Rip beat me to it, lol.

    Hmm, the oil tanks are known to fail and allow the fresh water cooling to mix with the oil. From what I understand, you should remove the tank and shake it to see if it makes noise (after draining all the oil as if for an oil change). Not sure about the overflow into the bilge though, but I'm sure one of the MSX experts will chime in. How does the coolant look in the coolant bottle? Any oily sludge in there? If so, could be a blown head gasket.

  4. #4
    Yeah, these were 2 yr production models and I bought it as a wrenching project. I did enough research to be dangerous but now that it's in my hands I just wanted to get the best procedures in line. Thanks for the replies.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALS View Post
    Yeah, these were 2 yr production models and I bought it as a wrenching project. I did enough research to be dangerous but now that it's in my hands I just wanted to get the best procedures in line. Thanks for the replies.
    The Weber turbo engine models were only sold for 2004. Single year in production.

    The MSX 140 2-stroke version was 2003 and 2004

  6. #6
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALS View Post
    Yeah, these were 2 yr production models and I bought it as a wrenching project. I did enough research to be dangerous but now that it's in my hands I just wanted to get the best procedures in line. Thanks for the replies.
    The Polaris MSX 110 and MSX 150 were 2004 models only. 1 year wonders. Polaris exited the pwc biz in '04... no '05 made. The MSX 140 was a 2 year model ('03, '04)... but it is a 2-stroke... not the Weber-powered turbo 4-stroke.

    If you're going to put some effort and money into this ski to get it running reliably... might as well convert it to an MSX 150.

    You'll need:
    -ECU (I can help you here)
    -intercooler
    -ic-to-intake hardpipe with BOV
    -impeller

    Cheers!

  7. #7
    Last edited by CALS; 06-12-2015 at 04:51 PM.

  8. #8
    Well, it appears its probably the closed circuit cooling system that has mixed with the oil? I was hoping for the other and hoping it was just an oil tank issue since those are documented over and over again. The coolant expansion tank appears like the same milky gunk but is near empty. There is a cone shaped device behind the expansion tanks and the sludge pours out of it when the engine runs. I also checked the top MAP sensor out of curiosity and it is also covered with the same milky gunk leading me to believe it has cycled through the intake system. I will still be pressure testing the different systems since it will likely be getting torn down anyway.

    I also started it in reverse and got a 1500-1600 rpm. Sounds great but I don't want to run it long with the sludge cycling.

  9. #9
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Ouch... you've got your hands full there.

    Oil in the coolant and vice versa is very likely a blown headgasket. The coolant in the oil then causes foaming/frothing... which causes what you described... plus a lot of that gunk gets sucked back through the oil separator-to-intake recirc emissions hose and re-ingested into the intake. Your intercooler is likely all gunked too... as well as the intake. This is the dreaded oil ingestion. Lots of thread about it.

    You will need to figure out the root cause... but I'm sad to say it doesn't sound good so far.

    Compression test, leak-down test, you can even pressure test the oil tank, these will point the way.

    Cheers!

  10. #10
    Figured as much. The guy seemed to know it was a blown head gasket but the diagnosis was shade tree from description. The thing that is overflowing sludge is the cyclon? Found it on Babbits.

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