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  1. #1
    Harsax13's Avatar
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    Genesis Bearing Housing Hose Crushed

    I just picked up a 2002 Polaris Genesis i. It has a crushed bearing housing hose. See first pic. Looks like bearing housing hose came off. Prevoius owner must have used third hose clamp and crushed bearing housing hose to the drive shaft. It also pushed the bearing housing forward about an inch. Now that the housing hose is crushed, I cant get it back on the bearing housing where it belongs. See second pic.
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    How do I fix this? I assume i have to pull the drive shaft to install new hose. I have taken pumps apart, but never removed a drive shaft. Will i need any special tools? Do i have to realign the drive shaft? Any tricks or advice in replacing the bearing housing hose? Thanks for the help.

    PS- Previous owner said he sucked a rope into inpeller. Dont know if it has something to do with this. Also, how important is it to have the bearing housing shield in place?


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Loosen up all those hose clamps on the Through-hull bearing carrier. Does the carrier slide/spin on the driveshaft now? Want to see if it is seized. Assuming it is not seized...

    Next... remove the 4 LONG bolts on the jet pump (plus the steering linkage bolt and reverse bucket linkage and siphon hoses)... then pull the whole pump straight out the back. Might have to pull hard. If the driveshaft does NOT come out with the pump (still stuck in the impeller)... then set pump aside and grab the driveshaft and pull straight back hard. It will come... unless it is seized into the coupler (not likely). If it won't come out... you will need to persuade it somehow... to pop it out.

    ** with jetpump out... check it for bearing smoothness... turning the impeller on the stator... pull in/out. You want smooth and "tight". Also check the stator vanes for condition. And you can also check the wear ring for condition and clearance with impeller. Good idea to also pop the rear stator cone off and look for water intrusion. You want to see lots of grease... and no water.

    Once the driveshaft is out. Replace the carrier hose and put the carrier back into position... then reinstall the hose clamps. 2 clamps on the hull side... 1 clamp on the carrier side. Grease driveshaft splines... and shaft area where carrier rides. Re-insert the driveshaft. No alignment needed. You didn't remove the engine or jetpump base. No special tools needed either.

    Seat driveshaft into coupler. Re-install jetpump (reverse of removal). Might have to push hard to get driveshaft o-ring to seat into the impeller. It will pop on.

    Lastly... grease gun the Through-hull bearing carrier via the zerk on it. And pop the coupler cover back on and secure with hose clamp (if you have it).

    Cheers!

  3. #3
    Harsax13's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. It dosnt sound too hard. The carrier is not siezed. I can move it by hand. Inpeller, wear ring etc look like new. Ski has very low hours on it, 48 hrs. Its missing the coupler cover. Is it worth buying a new one?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripcuda View Post
    Loosen up all those hose clamps on the Through-hull bearing carrier. Does the carrier slide/spin on the driveshaft now? Want to see if it is seized. Assuming it is not seized...

    Next... remove the 4 LONG bolts on the jet pump (plus the steering linkage bolt and reverse bucket linkage and siphon hoses)... then pull the whole pump straight out the back. Might have to pull hard. If the driveshaft does NOT come out with the pump (still stuck in the impeller)... then set pump aside and grab the driveshaft and pull straight back hard. It will come... unless it is seized into the coupler (not likely). If it won't come out... you will need to persuade it somehow... to pop it out.

    ** with jetpump out... check it for bearing smoothness... turning the impeller on the stator... pull in/out. You want smooth and "tight". Also check the stator vanes for condition. And you can also check the wear ring for condition and clearance with impeller. Good idea to also pop the rear stator cone off and look for water intrusion. You want to see lots of grease... and no water.

    Once the driveshaft is out. Replace the carrier hose and put the carrier back into position... then reinstall the hose clamps. 2 clamps on the hull side... 1 clamp on the carrier side. Grease driveshaft splines... and shaft area where carrier rides. Re-insert the driveshaft. No alignment needed. You didn't remove the engine or jetpump base. No special tools needed either.

    Seat driveshaft into coupler. Re-install jetpump (reverse of removal). Might have to push hard to get driveshaft o-ring to seat into the impeller. It will pop on.

    Lastly... grease gun the Through-hull bearing carrier via the zerk on it. And pop the coupler cover back on and secure with hose clamp (if you have it).

    Cheers!
    There is a small rubber bumper on each end of the driveshaft. Don't lose them.

    The coupler cover is there to prevent fingers, hoses and wires from getting snagged around the spinning driveshaft/coupler. It also reduces water ingestion risk into the engine if you get some water inside the hull. An uncovered coupler can throw a lot of water around, some of which will get sucked into the engine air intake.

  5. #5
    Harsax13's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I have ordered the coupler cover for $12

  6. #6
    Harsax13's Avatar
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    I pulled out the drive shaft today. Everything looks good except the tail cone seal. Its kinda messed up so I will have to order another one. There was NO water inside the tail cone. Bearings etc. look good. Is there anything I should do while I have the tail cone off? I may have read somewhere that you can pack the tail cone with marine grease. Good idea, bad idea? Has anyone ever done that?

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    Last edited by Harsax13; 06-28-2015 at 09:59 PM.

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