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  1. #1

    Talking Wave venture update. No start fixed, now new problem to deal with

    ok to recap I bought two 97 760 wave venture, one ran fine after getting started with starter fluid and the other did not. so following the good advice here, I Drained the gas, rebuilt the carbs, and changed the plugs and fuel filters. It started right up and ran great on the lake this weekend for about 2 hours.

    Then while a mile and half out, I go to idle, and then it wouldn't get up over 3 miles an hour. The motor sounded fine and revved up but there was a god awful grinding groan and vibration when went more than 1/4 throttle. So I had to putter in at idle speeds (aka the scenic route) and finally make it back. I take of the seat and notice water in the engine compartment. I see that it is coming in from the intermediate or middle bearing at the shaft near the bulkhead to impeller housing. I also noticed the bearing look a bit rusty too. I know this is the leak and I am assuming this bearing issue caused my lack of power to the impeller. I mean motor was doing to job just no propulsion. Sound right?

    my thinking is I need to replace the bearing housing. I found an entire assembly- housing, shaft coupler in good condition online and i ordered it. Will I need any gaskets? Anyone have a step by step or pointers on how to do this job? I can tell it will be a bugger getting the bolts off the bearing/bulkhead as they look salt water corroded and will probably break off. I've read here I will need to slide the motor forward. How is this done? Appreciate any input. Also, should I just replace the whole assembly since my replacement comes intact? I don't own a press or any specialty tools take the shaft and coupler apart.

    Anyway, this is what I get for buying old high hour skis, but at least used parts are cheap and at this rate I will learn these things inside out in no time..... With this forums help of course...... cheers.


  2. #2
    bump- anyone have any input on changing out the best way to tackle middle bearing housing replacements? Purty pleaze.....lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Forumron View Post
    ok to recap I bought two 97 760 wave venture, one ran fine after getting started with starter fluid and the other did not. so following the good advice here, I Drained the gas, rebuilt the carbs, and changed the plugs and fuel filters. It started right up and ran great on the lake this weekend for about 2 hours.

    Then while a mile and half out, I go to idle, and then it wouldn't get up over 3 miles an hour. The motor sounded fine and revved up but there was a god awful grinding groan and vibration when went more than 1/4 throttle. So I had to putter in at idle speeds (aka the scenic route) and finally make it back. I take of the seat and notice water in the engine compartment. I see that it is coming in from the intermediate or middle bearing at the shaft near the bulkhead to impeller housing. I also noticed the bearing look a bit rusty too. I know this is the leak and I am assuming this bearing issue caused my lack of power to the impeller. I mean motor was doing to job just no propulsion. Sound right?

    my thinking is I need to replace the bearing housing. I found an entire assembly- housing, shaft coupler in good condition online and i ordered it. Will I need any gaskets? Anyone have a step by step or pointers on how to do this job? I can tell it will be a bugger getting the bolts off the bearing/bulkhead as they look salt water corroded and will probably break off. I've read here I will need to slide the motor forward. How is this done? Appreciate any input. Also, should I just replace the whole assembly since my replacement comes intact? I don't own a press or any specialty tools take the shaft and coupler apart.

    Anyway, this is what I get for buying old high hour skis, but at least used parts are cheap and at this rate I will learn these things inside out in no time..... With this forums help of course...... cheers.

  3. #3
    Myself's Avatar
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    Unbolt 4 motor mount bolts and slide motor forward. Replace the whole thing as an assembly. You may also want to pull the jet pump and inspect the driveshaft splines as they might be stripped also. No gaskets necessary, just some silicone sealant.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the reply. I worked on it today, could get 3 motor bolts out and have one that is a giving me a headache. Ill try again this week. Do i need to disconnect the exhaust or anything besides the 4 bolts that hold the motor to the motor mounts to be able to move it forward?


    good idea, i will pull the pump. Might as well check it while im here. You say no gaskets so what do i use? 3m 5200 or similar? Thanks again for responding.





    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Unbolt 4 motor mount bolts and slide motor forward. Replace the whole thing as an assembly. You may also want to pull the jet pump and inspect the driveshaft splines as they might be stripped also. No gaskets necessary, just some silicone sealant.

  5. #5
    Myself's Avatar
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    Unhook exhaust at rear rubber hose, might have to unhook other cooling hoses to slide motor forward. Seal midshaft and pump parts with plain clear silicone after cleaning off all old sealant.

  6. #6

    Thanks

    Myself, thanks again- you are a gentleman and watercraft scholar.

    Last question- how do I go about checking the water pump? Pull it out completely? I have the service manual just looking for additional input.



    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Unhook exhaust at rear rubber hose, might have to unhook other cooling hoses to slide motor forward. Seal midshaft and pump parts with plain clear silicone after cleaning off all old sealant.

  7. #7
    Myself's Avatar
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    Yes, after you unhook the linkages and hoses, and 4 bolts holding the jet pump to the hull, it will pull straight backwards. The driveshaft will come out with it and you can inspect the splines.

  8. #8
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    There is a gasket behind the midshaft bearing, it's more of a heavy felt/rubber ring. Usually never fails, really no silicone necessary if you reassemble correctly

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