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  1. #1

    Breaking in a fresh rebuild.....what oil ??

    I have just finished my rebuild and am going to fire it up and run it in for the first time, what oil is good for break in ? I have Maxima super M 2 stroke ester based synthetic blend that I use in my other ski is it ok to use this as well for the new build or should I use some other 2 stroke oil like quick silver from Walmart etc ?

    I will be running 32:1 pre mix for the first tank then 40:1 after that.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    Almost's Avatar
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    Run what you got. It's more important to ride in a manor that is going to seat the rings. Variable rpm with bursts of WOT for 1-2 seconds to help seat the rings. Don't do extended periods idleing or you glaze the cylinders.

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  4. #3
    Tagged for info.

    Every two stroke I ever built I never used a different oil. But the heat cycles and load where what I always was told is critical. No free revs, short 20% throttle 1st cycle....

  5. #4
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    I agree with comments above about heat cycles but I prefer not to break in with any type of synthetic oil. I use straight castor for break in or you could use straight mineral based oil.

    .02

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  7. #5
    Thanks for the replies guys, I used the oil I had and I hope it is all good.

    I ran for about an hour today, ran short bursts for about 10 min and then let it cool for about 10 to 15 min then ran again for 10-15 min short shots at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle did not try wide open yet.

    Ran one good run at 3/4 then shut it down and pulled the plugs back plug was nice dark brown, middle plug was also dark brown, front plug was a little lighter brown ? Maybe I need to fatted that one up a little ?

    also on the second run when I would come off the throttle I would get a slight back fire once and a while ? On the last run I did not get the back fire that I could hear so I am not sure what causes a back fire and if it is a sign of a problem ? I checked all the cyl. With a heat gun a few times and they were all very close to the same temp. Which is good I think.

    I have only run about 5 gallons through it so far at 32:1 so I still have another couple of hours of riding to go on the breakin before I think I can go to the WOT ?

    i am going to check the compression tomorrow and see how it is....when I started it was 120 on all cyl.

    Let me know what you guys think.

  8. #6
    Im usimg Yamalube for my break in then back to the klotz

  9. #7
    Prism's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WFO View Post
    I agree with comments above about heat cycles but I prefer not to break in with any type of synthetic oil. I use straight castor for break in or you could use straight mineral based oil.
    .02
    BeNOL and get on it some to seat the rings.

  10. #8
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    oh yeah... love that stuff
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  11. #9
    Thanks for the info guys, but if I have already run 5 gallons through of the Maxima oil I have should I try to drain the tank and get some Benol and mix up 5 gallons to run through now or is it too late ??

  12. #10
    Prism's Avatar
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    You're likely going to be fine. Those that truely know and understand oil will tell you... there is not one oil that does everything perfectly. Like most other go fast stuff in the world, its a balance of compromises. When you understand what you're trying to accomplish, and understand the products that can help you get to that end result, you realize there are often products that are better than others for fulfilling that goal. Basically, during break in you want tight clearences to remain lubricated...even if they get really really hot. You also want the rings to seat quickly before they glaze over. Thats about all. Synthetics are slippery and tend to be thinner than conventional but also will combust completely at a temps between 250-350 degrees. Good all around stuff and low smoke to boot but in a fresh engine, that slippery nature could lengthen the time it takes for the rings to seat. Also the oil mist is consumed by the combustion process and must be relaid by the fresh intake charge. Ok in a normal engine, but not the best for a new engine where some tolerences are on the tight side. The other end of the spectrum is castor oil. Castor oil is made from pressed beans and is not synthetic at all. The great news is this stuff has tremendous film strength and won't ignite until it reaches temps over 500 degress. One of the best properties of castor is its variable viscosity. As matter of fact, the hotter castor oil gets, the more slippery it becomes. THERE IS NO OIL THAT PROTECTS AS WELL AS CASTOR. This is wonderful news, but there are downsides. #1, Castor oil is expensive to make and you'll pay a premium to use it. #2 That oil film is great for lubrication, but in a normal engine thats running well, fully broken in and not being tortured to death, it leaves that film behind and can turn into gummy deposits....not great for powervalves, sticking rings or plug fouling. #3 Because of its high flash point, it smokes like a chimney burning wet wood. For these reasons, its best not to use staight castor every day unless you like cleaning your top end and powervalves frequently. BUT, if you're looking to break in a new engine or have a 2hr offshore endurance race, nothing protects like castor. As far as what should be used for everyday oil....thats open to interpitation, opinion and user experience. IMHO, an oil for everyday use should probably be mostly synthetic with some castor...aka synthetic blend. Klotz, Maxima, and others are a great choice. But for specific instances where maximum protection is required, look no further than castor. With all that being said, you'll still probably be fine with what you have now in the tank. Many an engine has been broken in with different stuff and survived just fine. I just wanted to share what I know and believe to be true.
    Last edited by Prism; 06-11-2015 at 10:02 AM.

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