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  1. #1

    et127 wheel install rundown

    Can someone give me basic rundown of the install I know you have to take front housing off,after that do you simply remove the nut hold the wheel on in the front?


  2. #2
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    1.)loosen the nut that holds the clutch assembly..Dont need to take it off BUT loosen it(17mm)
    2.)take all the SCer front cover bolts out(8mm unless its the torx style) and split cases
    3.)take the Scer impeller nut off(remember this is a reversed threaded nut, right to loosen, left to tighten-17mm)
    4.)Pull off old Scer impeller
    5.)clean and inspect SCer housing and oil seal....(Being you have this apart it might be a good idea to replace that seal with a new Viton)
    6.)Clean off silicone off Scer housing mating surfaces
    7.)install new wheel,use red loctite on the nut and torque it down to 22FT LBS
    8.)put a small bead of black RTV silicone around the main housing mating surface
    9.)put spacer plate on main housing
    10.)apply small bead of silicone to Scer front cover
    11.)install Scer front cover and bolts.apply blue loctite to bolts upon installation
    12.) torque down Scer cover bolts
    13.)tighten Scer clutch assembly nut to 22 FT LBS..check and preload slip to around 160 IN LBS
    14.)After slip is set,apply red loctite to clutch assembly nut and torque down to 22FT LBS
    15.)install back into ski
    16.)clean up mess and crack open a cold one.

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  4. #3
    Why do you have to loosen the clutch nut?mine won't need any new seals or anything,it might have 5hrs on it since rebuild

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    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Cause if you leave the clutch nut tightened, you take a chance of spinning the thrust collar on the shaft when tightening the impeller,causing the collar to block the oil/lubrication holes on the shaft that feed oil to the needle bearings and clutch washers..

  6. #5
    Ok,thanks

  7. #6
    I'm being told I'll need head studs and better gasket if I put this et127and 42s in my 2007 rxp

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    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    I dont know whos tellin you that....You will be fine with your setup as it already is.....Especially at stock RPMs...Your only gonna put out about or around 11 PSI max on that thing..Anything bigger then yes you might want to consider upgrading...But for what you have and are doing..you are fine..

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  10. #8
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    Huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by Snoman View Post
    Cause if you leave the clutch nut tightened, you take a chance of spinning the thrust collar on the shaft when tightening the impeller,causing the collar to block the oil/lubrication holes on the shaft that feed oil to the needle bearings and clutch washers..

  11. #9
    Moderator Snoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Hulk View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Snoman View Post
    check the thrust collar on the shaft to see if it didnt spin and close off the oil hole?


    If the oil hole is closed off the clutch can freeze up resulting in shaft breakage.

    when rebuilding a supercharger it's important to torque the impeller side first, clutch side last.
    Doing it opposite can cause the thrust collar to move and close off the oil hole.
    From another thread...

  12. #10
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    I'll have to disagree. The thrust washer is the aluminum piece that the seal seats in. No way that can cover up the oil holes in shaft. Are we talking about something else?

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