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  1. #1

    Polaris genies interminently starts

    Hello , recently took my Polaris genies with fifth fuel injection to the lake . It ran fine for two days and then later it decided not to start. Next morning it started and ran for a spin around the cove . I shut it down then later tried to start and nothing . Took the seats off pand noticed it would click when I pressed the start button but the starter never rolled over the engine. Battery was on trickle charge all winter and is three years old ? Wondering if you may have any other ideas where to look or troubleshoot the problem.? Kevin are you out there ? Would greatly appreciate any suggestions? Larry


  2. #2

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    Can you manually jump the starter using a screw driver or something similar? That should tell you whether you have a bad starter or something electrical instead.

  3. #3
    retro's Avatar
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    A good battery is a must. That must number 1 on the list. If it's just clicking even after battery is charged put a screwdriver across the starter solonoid briefly like jkearnea said. If the motor turns over you probably have a bad solonoid. That would be my quess.

  4. #4
    Thank you I put a driver across the solenoid tonight and it clicked then I bumped the bilge pump and tried it again and the engine turned over. I think that May have beencoincidence cause I could not get a repeat . I thin checked voltage and had nearly 13 volts on both sides of solenoid before I tried to start and then it went to zero when I pressed the start button . When I had the driver on the solenoid I could feel it switching:clicking. Wonder why it turns over interment as so?

  5. #5
    ZeeC's Avatar
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    Weak battery

  6. #6
    I put the screwdriver across the solenoid and nothing, I changed the battery and nothing, It is not the battery, but I am not sure how to check the solenoid or the starter. Any Suggestions???? Larry

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GASTON MANIA View Post
    Thank you I put a driver across the solenoid tonight and it clicked then I bumped the bilge pump and tried it again and the engine turned over. I think that May have been coincidence cause I could not get a repeat .

    I thin checked voltage and had nearly 13 volts on both sides of solenoid before I tried to start and then it went to zero when I pressed the start button .

    When I had the driver on the solenoid I could feel it switching:clicking. ...
    I suspect there is some misunderstanding going on.

    A three year old battery may be just fine or it can be completely worthless. Put your voltmeter across the two battery posts (not the cable ends, the actual posts). Battery voltage should measure around 12.5 volts or a bit higher. If it is much below 12.5 volts the battery is either discharged or needs to be replaced.

    Short the two solenoid studs together. The measured battery voltage should instantly drop to around 11.0 volts and the engine should crank. If the battery voltage drops to below 10 volts the battery is weak, the starter motor is internally shorted, or the engine is mechanically seizing (this can also be caused by the jet pump seizing).

    If the battery voltage drops way below 10 volts then the battery is no good.

    When you put a screwdriver across the two large studs on the solenoid, the solenoid itself should make zero noise, it will not react in any way (other than some sparking from the stud contacts to the screwdriver). Use a firm hand to minimize sparking. The electricity will flow through the screwdriver metal between the two studs and then conduct to the starter motor.

    If something is 'clicking' when you short the solenoid studs together with a screwdriver, that noise is most likely coming from the starter motor.

    When measuring DC voltage at the solenoid studs the black probe from the voltmeter should be connected to the engine case, not the battery negative post, not the other stud on the solenoid. The starter motor is bolted to the engine case, and what you are trying to diagnose is whether the starter motor itself is getting full battery voltage when you are trying to crank the engine.

    If the starter motor post is getting full battery voltage but the starter motor is not cranking the engine, then the starter motor itself is suspect.

    If you can do so, the best place to put the red meter probe is right on the starter motor connection post. When you short the solenoid terminals with the screwdriver you want the meter to show you fully battery voltage right at the post on the starter motor. That is what should cause the starter motor to crank the engine.

    If you do not get proper battery voltage at the starter motor post then the problem lies somewhere between the starter motor post and the battery positive post.

    Or the battery negative cable connection to the engine.

    Or within the battery.

    Things to do;
    Remove and clean the battery negative cable connection at the engine. Clean the bolt, the cable end, the bolt hole. Also clean any other wire harness ground connections to the engine. You want clean metal to metal connection.

    Clean the black cable end where it connects to the battery negative post.

    Remove and clean both red battery cables, both ends of each cable.

    If the start solenoid has a black body and a metal mounting back plate, replace the solenoid with new. The new replacement solenoids are all plastic, with no metal backing plate.

    The factory original solenoid studs are known to corrode internally and fail. They can fail suddenly without warning and can cause you to be stranded on the water or even burn out the starter motor.

  8. #8
    Good info, when I put the meter across the solenoid it reads full battery power over 12.4 volts. When I engage the start/stop switch the full voltage goes to zero as if being loaded to starter but no starter action, seems it be a starter problem ? Larry

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...

    When measuring DC voltage at the solenoid studs the black probe from the voltmeter should be connected to the engine case, not the battery negative post, not the other stud on the solenoid. The starter motor is bolted to the engine case, and what you are trying to diagnose is whether the starter motor itself is getting full battery voltage when you are trying to crank the engine.

    ...
    Quote Originally Posted by GASTON MANIA View Post
    ... when I put the meter across the solenoid it reads full battery power over 12.4 volts. When I engage the start/stop switch the full voltage goes to zero ...
    Measure the voltage on the solenoid stud that feeds the starter motor. Black meter probe to engine case. Press Start button.

    What is the voltage feeding the starter motor cable?

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