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  1. #1

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    potential purchase: Polaris Virage TXI....non running w/trailer....$1000 ?

    Looking at this ski tomorrow....owner states that it cranks, idles rough, and then dies when you give it throttle. Compression is 120 on all three cylinders according to owner.

    I've never owned a PWC, but I'm mechanically experienced with automotives. I think I can work on the ski just fine.

    From what I've read on the forums, possibly bad EMM or TPS?

    Display reads 10 hours......current owner is unsure whether that is accurate or not. He bought it with a second ski and only wanted the other ski.

    It appears to be in excellent condition from the photos......worth the gamble as a first time PWC owner?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Assume the EMM will need repair, regardless of whether it is good or bad right this minute. These are all old enough now that repair is quite likely.

    Assume the TPS is suspect. Not that expensive and always good to have a spare on hand. There is no workaround for a bad TPS.

    Assume the fuel pressure regulator mounting needs to be reinforced. It may have already fallen off into the fuel pump bottom.

    I would expect the Reverse lever to be stiff and binding. If someone has muscled it too hard then the plastic detent latch inside can break off.

  3. #3

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    K447,
    Reading on old posts, you mentioned that the Tempo lines are OK for TXI models because of the use of plastic fuel fittings on the fuel injected model.....is this still the case? I did buy the ski...and it does have Tempo lines on it.

    Funny thing is, it fired up and seems to run pretty decent.....a little boggy at first but then smooths out at upper RPMs. I wish I lived closer to a lake, I'd like to see if she runs good on the water!

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Well, those original Tempo fuel hoses are getting older every year. Even if they don't have the green goo accumulation, they are likely getting stiff with age.

    I would lean toward replacing them with new fuel hoses, of high quality.

    I also recommend using the OEM type Oetiker hose clamps, which work well, cannot loosen with vibration, and will maintain clamping tension as the new hose material shrinks with age.

    Careful working with the plastic fuel hose and injector fittings as it is easy to crack them.

    Be sure to reinforce the fuel pressure regulator inside the fuel pump. Repair details are posted elsewhere on GH.

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the quick reply! I believe I will replace them on Tuesday when the stores open again.

    Do you happen to know what this blue thing in the picture is? Looks like some sort of connection to me that's been capped off.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkernea View Post
    ...

    Do you happen to know what this blue thing in the picture is? Looks like some sort of connection to me that's been capped off.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That is a Reverse Flush connection into the water manifold (water bar).

    Under the blue top cover is a click on or threaded connector for a garden hose. If it is the click on type then you would need the mating adapter for your garden hose.

    The idea is that water injected from the garden hose into the water bar will flow through the engine cooling jackets in the reverse flow direction compared to normal engine operation in the lake. Sand and silt would be pushed backwards out of the engine and through the mesh inlet screen (which is located inside the main jet pump exit nozzle).

    In reality I suspect the reverse flow is not vigorous enough to properly scour the water jackets. There is some benefit, but it is not a huge clean out effect.

    It is important that the reverse flush fitting be closed/capped during normal engine operation as the water bar is pressurized from the jet pump cooling water feed.

  7. #7

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    K447, thanks bud....I guess that should have been obvious, but not for a greenhorn like myself!

    I have diagnosed the problem with the ski dying and not wanting to start.....it's the start/stop button! Using your instructions, I was able to unplug it and verify that the ski runs properly with it disconnected. Now, where can I find a replacement? Parts Pit Stop says the part is unavailable.....there are plenty of used ones on eBay...is that my best option?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkernea View Post
    K447, thanks bud....I guess that should have been obvious, but not for a greenhorn like myself!

    I have diagnosed the problem with the ski dying and not wanting to start.....it's the start/stop button! Using your instructions, I was able to unplug it and verify that the ski runs properly with it disconnected. Now, where can I find a replacement? Parts Pit Stop says the part is unavailable.....there are plenty of used ones on eBay...is that my best option?
    The actual Start/Stop button has failed? That is certainly possible, but I would first bypass the Start/Stop LR-503 module as a test.

    The LR-503 connects between the Start button and the engine. If the Start/Stop module gets confused (or goes bad) then it will not allow the engine to run properly, or sometimes not start, or not obey the stop.

  9. #9

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    Well I feel like a dummy....I took apart the steering wheel thinking that was the LR503....now I realize it's located under the storage in front deck.

    I'll connect the button back up tomorrow and then try disconnecting the relay.

    Is there a parts source for the LR503 if it's the culprit?

  10. #10

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    Apr 2010
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    Replacing the Tempo lines this coming weekend on the TXI....will 15FT of line be enough? I've read 15FT and some say 20FT.....anyone remember who's done it before?

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