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  1. #1
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    Time to rebuild charger 2010 TX- Mod options

    2010 RXT-X 260 - 110hrs - Bone stock

    Pulled the charger yesterday to send off to Jerry for rebuild. When I pulled it off, I found some damage to the charger wheel blades. I talked to Jerry about the stock wheel condition and I will have to replace it. Now I have a few options to fix the problem since the wheel needs to be replaced but I'm not sure of which I should do.

    -Buy a complete new X-charger, keep ski in stock form. Complete Xcharger is around $900
    -Buy a new stock wheel to have installed when Jerry rebuilds my Xcharger - would be a little less than buying a complete new xcharger
    -Buy a XX2 (137+4) wheel for Jerry to install when he rebuilds my Xcharger. Would require quite a few supporting mods.

    Is it possible to run a XX2 (137+4) wheel on a stock ski that only has RRFPR, 4" Filter, catch can & Solas impeller? I was running 8140 RPM all stock before I took the charger off. The XX2 wheel puts out 13.5psi @8,100rpm. Are the Vtech 1100 injectors only required once it gets over a higher rpm than stock and can you run the XX2 with a stock tuned ecu? I would be able to get a V-tech tune & 1100 injectors within the next month or 2 so I would be able to run higher RPM. Question is, for now, could I get the XX2 wheel with only the RRFPR, 4" filter, catch can, solas impeller and be able to run on a stock ECU with stock map?

    While the charger is out and apart, I'd like to get the XX2 wheel in it if I can make it work with what I've got for now. I know once the RPMs are up a little higher, there are a few more supporting mods to do.


  2. #2
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    I think I would be more concerned about the SC touchdown and the bearing failure. If it was my ski I would be pulling the PTO housing off inspecting the oil pump screen and the front scavenge pump housing to check that screen also for SC bearing parts. Additionally, the SC wheel / housing metal went into the IC. I would inspect it thoroughly and the intake manifold.

    You are very lucky this did not cause more damage than it did at 110 hours!

    Once all that is done it is up to you how far you want to take it. The ECU re-flash, ET 137 upgrade requires very smart planning regarding the proper tune, injectors, data logging, AFR monitoring, fuel pump & regulator changes, springs & retainers, etc, etc. You have been used to a stock ski and the modified path requires a lot of money and time to set it up correctly, and continuous monitoring. Choose your path carefully!
    Last edited by jpt7779; 05-20-2015 at 11:30 AM.

  3. #3
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    It didn't have a bearing failure but I am going to inspect the IC and intake manifold. I'll attach a pic of what the charger looked like. And I know that the wheel will require many supporting mods but from what I searched on the forum, it seemed like they were mainly needed for higher RPM once the ECU was flashed with a tune. My main thing is that while it's apart, I would like to put this wheel in since I have to get one anyways. I do plan to do all the supporting mods you listed but was wondering if I was able to run the XX2 with stock ECU, no flash, stock injectors. I would be installing a RRFPR. I have been told that I can run the stock ski with the XX2 wheel and just the RRFPR. I would be gathering all the other supporting parts over the next couple of months to where I can put on everything else all at once. No doubt it is expensive and time consuming to do mods right, but with the RPMs still limited to stock, the stock injectors and ECU would work fine right?
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  4. #4
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    WHat makes you think you did not have a bearing failure? The only way to find out the real damage is to split the case housing on the charger. Did you do that to inspect the rest of the wheel? If not Jerry sure will and should advise you what the real damage is.

    Did something get sucked into the SC?

  5. #5
    Branden's Avatar
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    looks like your blower ate something small

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  7. #6
    swlamarshrunner's Avatar
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    The wheel spins free and smooth and had no slop in it side to side. I will pull the cover off and inspect the rest of it this afternoon.... haven't checked it out yet. Figured the wheel would not roll smoothly and would look like some pieces were missing on the backside if it did have a bearing failure. I have no clue how the SC has dings in it like it does though.

  8. #7
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Look at the pictures in the first post of this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=230198

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