"best" air intake/filter setup these days for a GP1300r?

[riick370]

2006 GP1300r. Is it worth doing an air filter/intake? Any real world benefits? Which one to buy if so?

[OzarkYamMonster]

Well tat really depends on how far you plan to mod. The OEM air intake box is good, just take all the air intake sect off that is @ the front of the engine. Right in front of flywheel. Leave the air intake box that is connected to the fuel rail. If you want you can remove the flame arrester screens that are in the air intake box. If you plan on more aggressive performance like milled heads, ported cylinders, advance timing then I would remove entire air intake system and install a Power Plenum filter, Kevin @ West Coast has them about $150. they just slide right on the fuel rail openings. Good Luck

[riick370]

Milled head is in my very near future (late june/july). Maybe porting this winter.

[VdeKock]

If you go porting, I definitely recommend the R&D power plenum fits perfect-easy install....
or even better if no rough water, Ross nemo Velocity stacks.

[Prism]

I run a power plenum on my 2003 1300R. It works well and I haven't had an issue with it. If you get a ton of water in the hull, it will NOT keep water out. It's not really a problem, I just make sure my bilge always works and pay attention to "feel" if there is water under the seat whenever I stop. By now, it's become instinctive for me. My 2006 I plan on doing differently...not because the power plenum doesn't work well, but because I'm building that ski to go fast with the least amount of money. In every stock airbox, there are rubber velocity stacks. If you've ever taken the stock box apart you know what I mean. I plan on removing the stock rubber velocity stacks from the box and mounting them to the throttle bodies without the box at all. Think of it as a poor man's velocity stack/throttle body mod similar to other professional throttle body mods you could have done. I have a build thread and will post back to back results with numbers.

[riick370]

I only ride inland narrow rivers at WOT. The roughest water I see is maybe 3in chop.

[Prism]

I only ride inland narrow rivers at WOT. The roughest water I see is maybe 3in chop.

Then you are a candidate for the mod I'm talking about. I would open up the cowling on the right side under the front of the fairing to match the left. There are stock air intake holes under the fairings. This gives a slight ram air effect to both intake holes. On my 2003 ski, I removed the air intake tubes and air intake silencer as I removed the stock airbox. Then I drilled some holes near the top of the storage bucket with a hole saw. I then removed the wind screen and drilled holes in the lid under where the windscreen goes. Then I put the windscreen back on. With all this done there is no rpm drop at WOT with the seat on. (rpm difference with seat on or off let's you know when you have enough airflow to the engine) Finally I would remove the rubber velocity stacks from the stock airbox and mount them to the throttle body for unimpeded airflow to the engine. This should give the maximum airflow to the engine and requires little to no cost or down time. If you do this, get your max rpm and speed reading before the mod and then after. Post your results. I'll post mine (for the 06 ski) and we'll compare notes. I can supply picures if you need. Keep in mind...being that you river ride, you need to pick a section of river to test on. Then you need to go upstream and record WOT rpm and speed then back down stream and record rpm and speed. Add both rpm numbers then speed numbers up separately and divide each by two. This will give your true top speed and factors out any river currents. Good luck!

[riick370]

I live on a little 500 acre lake, that's what I test on.

I currently just run no front bucket, no air tubes, silencer. I use a dry sack for my stuff.

I do kinda like the idea of some kind of filter I was talking to Kevin. I did flip it once on a log on a really tight stretch of the Econ river (idling speed).