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  1. #21
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Installed the updated version today. I went with the splice, 3/16 barb from Home Depot. Seeing how much the original install was stretched, it might be a good idea to try a 1/4 splice next time. (I had to cut off the end of the hose from the turbo to the original boost valve, it was very stretched). I used hose clamps (again from HD) on both splice joints, then tie wrapped the splice to the old boost valve. I also needed to tie wrap the switch to the bracket (not shown) , it was kinda worn and didn't click in place.

    PS Don't forget to put a rag in the turbo outlet and the intercooler inlet while working in this area, you definitely don't want to drop crap in there

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #22
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Nicely done.

    Now remove that oil separator > to > airbox long hose. Plumb the separator into a vented oil catch can... and be free from any future oil ingestion problems.

    Cheers!

  3. #23
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    I bought a brand new Pierburg 7.22240.13.0 on ebay a while back during my troubleshooting, and now that my machine is running properly I can confirm that this is a good cross reference part number. There are still some available from the seller I purchased them from, only $37 shipped
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/161636862710...witem=&vxp=mtr

  4. #24
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Cool! I'll add that substitute part # to my notes.

    So it's a direct fit? Wiring plug? Clip to attach to bracket? (no pic on ebay)

    Cheers!

  5. #25
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    I found my picture. Its plug and play with the same connector and (sorta lame) mounting finger.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #26
    Also, the VAG (Audi, Skoda, Seat etc..) N75 valve for the 1.8t engines fits perfectly.. Plugs directly into the Weber socket. Basically any N75 Boost control valves will do as long as the connector fits or if you are able to use a soldering iron .

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