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  1. #1
    SideFX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    BC Interior

    Changing color of grab bar and steering cover

    In the images, you see what appears to be a textured leather like finish. After all, I couldn't keep the lime green steering cover and that bright red grab bar after repainting the ski.

    Here is a step by step process which I used to achieve the new look.

    First I used my DT reducer to clean the two parts up as best I could. It was an ugly process, but I managed to get it looking brand spanking new. It's important to get all the old slime, grease, wax and general weathering off of it before doing this process.

    I laid down some large wax paper under the objects getting treatment. You can use thick poly plastic if it is more readily available. Put a layer of wax on the poly before you continue as this will prevent the rubber mix and the plastic from fusing all together.

    I have taken a photo of the ingredients so you could see the labels. I dug it up out of some old molding stuff I had here and I'm sure its still available in a variety of kit sizes.
    The main product is Smooth-On Formula 66-99 and when cured is a shore 90. (The higher the shore number, the stronger/denser the rubber is when finished curring.)
    It is a two part kit and is mixed 1:1 by weight or volume. Since I was going to brush it on a vertical surface, I had to concern myself with how long it would take to set up, so that I'm not standing there for an hour brushing it all back up to the top. That's where the Smooth-On Kick-It Cure Accelerator comes in to play. I used more than recommended as I have used the product a lot in the past, so have a good feel for timing with it. The accelerator basically kicks off the mix so it gets pretty darn stiff real fast depending on how much you add, so don't go crazy. LoL
    You also see a small container in the right side of the image and that is a pure black pigment which I add to the mix. (Other colors may be used to achieve different effects)

    So I pour off my 1:1 ratio of rubber, and always mix a little more than I think it will take. Then I added the equivalent of three drops of black pigment and started stirring up the batch. When I was satisfied that the batch was well blended, I then added the accelerator and mixed it one more time in a clean plastic container.

    Put on your rubber gloves, grab a fairly good 2" inch paint brush NOT a horse hair as the bristles fall out faster than the hair on the top of my head!
    Now go like stink. You need to apply all the rubber fast and get it smoothed on and into place on the items being coated before it gets too difficult to smooth.
    There is no time to talk, smoke, sip coffee, just go go go!

    So after you have got it all on, use a hair dryer and heat the surface. This will draw out any air bubbles and also help smooth out the surface.
    After a few minutes, about 20 to 30, depending, feel the surface in an inconspicuous area. If it is sticky and not too soft, use car wax, any type, and put a heavy layer onto the sticky rubber surface. This will stop it from being tacky and allow you to do the next step.

    Put a plastic grocery bag on each hand and begin touching every square inch of the coated item. There is time to do this so don't panic. Just keep massaging the texture of the plastic bags into the setting rubber. Don't drag, just mottle/press. If you try this without the wax stage, it will be a disaster. If you feel it is getting tacky, stop and apply more wax to the surface. And be liberal/generous with it.
    When you feel that you have achieved the texture you want, take the hair dryer and pass it over the surface once again. This will just kick it along further to insure it wont sag.
    The day after, trim off the areas around the openings and screw holes that you don't want showing and buff it clean.

    Hope this technique is found useful to anyone needing a change.
    If you need advice on this, I will do my best to help out.
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    Last edited by SideFX; 04-16-2007 at 02:51 AM. Reason: SPELLING ERROR

  2. #2
    What is a "DT reducer" ?

    I'm looking to simply cleaning my sea-doo (94XP) with parts still attached. Is it safe to use on the machine? will it clean to brand new condition?


  3. #3
    wavehummer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Phila. PA 19154
    Overtons has paint in cans for vinyl and hard plastic for Jetski's
    It's called color bond. Seperate cans of , adhesive promotor, paint, clear coat (in either satin or glossy finish) A UV protedtor and a vinyl prep wash.

    It will cost about 58 bucks if you buy a can of each.

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