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  1. #1
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Smokeysevin's juryrigged standup (js550) project

    I was fortunate enough to pick up this beauty a few weeks ago and have been working on getting my trailer and myself ready for another set of cylinders. So far I have been working on getting everything to a good starting point which has entailed repairing a few damaged pieces of fiberglass, doing lots of research, removing a ton of extra parts from a box that came with the ski, and doing some general cleaning.

    To start I checked the compression which was at 50 psi on one cylinder and a whopping 0 on the other. So I pulled the head and found the pistons intact but the rings glued to the pistions. So I tore into the motor, pulled the pistons, removed the rings and cleaned them, gave the cylinders a light hone, and tossed it all back together. Its now at 120 psi on both which is crap but its enough to get me through until I find a 650, 750, 800, or some parts for this poor little motor.

    As it sits now its got:

    an old school umi finger throttle
    A bn44 carb with the pilot screw
    A tauceti flame arrester and adapter
    Choke blade removed
    Some kind of aftermarket pipe (actually 2 plus a stocker)
    A west coast waterbox (which may need some welding)
    Tubbies
    A jetsports plate (in need of love)
    Aftermarket grate
    New odi rogue shorty grips
    Rule 350 bilge pump (not installed)
    Solas impeller (and another stainless)
    Rev limiter bypass
    Fuel water separator removed
    And fuel tank vent relocated

    Because the Tubbies were fit where they are I had to get creative to keep the exhaust from rubbing on the exposed screw so there is a temp hose clamp there.

    The battery is my nearly dead one that I purchased for my 15f 5 years ago rather optimistically.

    The waterbox strap mounts broke so those need to be reattached at the front, I am open to suggestions on what to use.

    The hull needs lots of work on the bottom deck and the whole thing needs paint as its currently over 7 different colors, not just shades of orange but completely different colors.

    The hood has a few drop marks that need some epoxy and there is a redbull can blocking the other air intake (probably because the pipe is too short)

    The turf all has to be replaced, and probably widened up because damn that thing is narrow.

    The nose needs some love and I would kill for a new handlepole, I really like the tube ones but the stock one is in remarkably good shape.

    As it sits now I plan or abusing it until the winter at which point hopefully I can find a cheap motor or rebuild this one. The crank and bottom end are in surprisingly good shape and I believe that it had a seal job within the last few years which is good for me since its sat for 2 years.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 02-12-2020 at 09:34 PM.


  2. #2
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Tonight I stripped the e box down and cleaned then sand blasted it to get it ready for new seals and wiring. Someone had been in there before and left a rats nest.


    Sean
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    Last edited by smokeysevin; 02-12-2020 at 09:26 PM.

  3. #3
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Had a busy evening, I had to reglass the rideplate inserts with bigger threaded ones. I cleaned the holes, threaded the stainless inserts in and checked for fit. Then removed them, added some high strength fiberglass epoxy and sent them home. I also cleaned the shitty powder coating off the rideplate while in there and recessed the plate back where it lines up with the hull.

    The bilge pump is a 350 gph rule non automatic attached to some 1/8th inch aluminum plate which is held onto the thru hull cover and glued to the hull on the bottom. The only problem there is that the pump is at an angle so the tube is a little goofy I may make up a hard tube later.

    The pipe on the ski right now is an orange county jet ski pipe based on the markings.

    The carb is giving me trouble, its the bn44 and even when set to stock settings it doesnt want to run. If I use the pimer it lives for a few seconds which tells me that its not getting enough fuel but I cant find anything obviously wrong. When I checked the carb it was in good shape with no obvious issues although st the same time I didnt really want to spend any money on it since I want a 650 to toss in it.

    Finally I finished the control cover in the footwell by installing my sealed bilge pump switch and the primer nob where the stock fuel selector went and where the stock choke lever went.

    Sean
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  4. #4
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Very coolio! Love the old subs...lol
    You may want to be on the lookout for a West Coast 5 gal. tank. Great upgrade, if you like to go on long rides.
    The BN may need a fresh diaphram or ?? You check the pulse I'm sure right? And then the return and vent.
    I'd dump the primer. I put my hand over carb first start of the day and rarely need to again. Once in a while but rarely. Primer bulbs do not with stand this fuel we get these days. If you want to use one make sure you keep an extra on hand.
    I have thought about cheater sponsons (tubbies) but am too hard core...lol Maybe in a few years when I am 60.
    Are you coming to the Hahn? Or World Finals? I could bring mine so you can spin on it. They are just stupid fun.
    I have a milled head and I'm 1 over on the slug. Burnt one last year so rings and 1 piston fresh. Next time I will have to go up another.
    It pulls all the way thru up to top speed. It is mid 40's. Thought it was 50 but friends gps lied to me.
    Those trick poles are hard to come by.

    Subbed. Gotta watch this one...

  5. #5
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Well, it has come to this. My life has spiraled totally out of control and I now have to actually finish projects instead of just getting more and forgetting about them.

    Teardown

    I got started doing some work on the ski and found it to be in worse shape than I thought. There was lots of glass and bondo "reinforcement" on it that I had to chip out. The inner surface wasn't even roughed up...

    I may still try and split the deck but I am not sure at this point. Its a lot more flimsy than I thought and I am worried I will just crack the deck more.

    Having spent some time hunched over it yesterday, it looks like there is probably enough access to do the reinforcement and repair if I just lean the ski over 90 degrees. I would repair one side at a time.

    I already managed to toss a chisel through the nose once in the process so I am a little worried about a repeat performance. The outer edge of the bond rail also looks like it was glued or repaired in a few places when looking at it from the bottom so I am worried I may hit hard spots.

    Time Spent:
    6 Hours on and off

    Tools Used:
    1/2" Wood Chisel
    3/4" Wood Chisel
    1" Wood Chisel
    Hammer
    Shop Vac

    Existing "Repairs" Removed:
    3

    New Damage Done:
    1 new hull vent near nose

    Muscles Strained:
    3

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Heaphones
    Safety Glasses
    Gloves

    Sean



    Exit Wound




    Nose "Repair" Before




    Nose "Repair" After



    Leftovers
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 02-21-2020 at 08:45 AM.

  6. #6
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Stripping the hull part 1

    Got the ski totally stripped with the exception of the pump and driveline yesterday. I cleaned up one side of the inner engine bay and rolled the hull up on its side to try and get better access to it.

    I think I am going to end up making a template for the reinforcement today or tomorrow. I have some 3:1 epoxy and 5 yards of 50" wide 1208 on the way from uscomposites for the repairs. Once that's good I am going to throw a coat of interlux engine bay coating on it.

    Current plan is to clean up the inside of the engine bay and do a layer of cabosil thickened epoxy along the bond line. I will sand that flush and then do a layer of 1208 on the inner engine bay surfaces.

    The hood flange is cracked in a few spots so I was thinking about running the reinforcement up to the top and then filling the gap up with more of the cabosil or some chopped strand and cab.

    When I removed the motor mounts the gaps were filled with some seriously rancid water, is there any reason I can't fill the holes in them and the bottom of the battery box up with more thickened epoxy?

    I found what looks like 3 factory holes in the bulkhead that have raw foam exposed on them. If I stick my finger in them the foam is pretty wet. Does this foam get waterlogged? I can pickup the hull now that its stripped and I am not that big of a dude so its not outrageously heavy.

    Time Spent:
    8 Hours but who is counting?

    Tools Used:
    1/2" Wood Chisel
    3/4" Wood Chisel
    1" Wood Chisel
    5" Random Orbital Sander
    5" Cloth Mesh 80 Grit Sanding Pads
    Rockwell Oscillating Multi Tool
    Hammer
    Shop Vac
    Steel Wire Brush in Drill

    Sheets of Hydroturf Removed:
    1

    New Damage Done:
    Scraped Paint

    Muscles Strained:
    4

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Headphones
    Safety Glasses
    Gloves

    Materials Ordered:
    1 Gallon 3:1 Epoxy
    Cabosil
    Microspheres
    5 Yards 1208 (50" wide)
    Roller
    Pizza Cutter

    Sean


    Tray with turf removed



    Peeling paint in tunnel






    Crusty Bottom



    Cracks Near Motor Mount



    Inside Nose



    Nose "Repair"



    Cool Fiber Mesh Sanding Pads
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 02-21-2020 at 08:44 AM.

  7. #7
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Inner Glasswork Part 1

    The hull is sitting on its side now with the inside was stripped out, scuffed with 80 grit and wiped with alcohol to remove excess dust. I put one layer of 1208 fiberglass and 3:1 epoxy resin from us composites on the inside edge of the hull from the inside upper edge of the hood flange to the bottom. I ran the glass about an inch past the corner onto the lower portion of the hull. I used the us composites . I cleaned out most of the loose glue and mixed up some cabosil resin to fill the gaps.

    I have enough cloth to do another couple layers, is it worth doing or is one enough? I will be doing additional reinforcement on the nose and handlepole area and the hood flanges.

    The hull came with a set of blowsion tubbies on the outside held on with wood screws that stuck through like punji spikes, I was thinking about throwing some nut-serts or ufo style mounts in the holes so they sit flush with the inside of the hull. The tubbies are foamed on and glued with some kind of silicone, do they need the fastners on them or are they just for install purposes.

    Time Spent:
    4 Hours, stop judging me!

    Tools Used:
    Rockwell Oscillating Multi Tool
    Shop Vac
    Mixing Cups
    Mixing Stick

    Materials Used:
    8 OZ Denatured Alcohol
    4 Blue Shop Towels
    16 OZ Resin/Hardener
    24" 1208 Cloth
    8 OZ Cabosil
    1 Hazard Fart Paint Brush


    New Damage Done:
    None

    Muscles Strained:
    2

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Heaphones
    Black Spider Gloves from Blowes

    Beer Consumed:
    1 Shiner Prickly Pear

    Percentage complete:
    25%

    Sean



    Glass and Patch



    Glass and Patch



    Layer Overlap near Hood Seam



    Bond Line



    Nose Reinforcement/Repair



    Templates
    Last edited by smokeysevin; 02-21-2020 at 08:45 AM.

  8. #8
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Inner Glasswork Part 2

    I rolled the hull over onto the other side and repeated the process. Fortunately my template worked on both sides and I ended up with reasonably well fitting repairs on both side that actually match.

    Moving forwards, do I need to knock this down to bare smc to paint it? I am concerned about mixing paint chemistry being incompatible with the existing garbage and having some hard work just go drooling down the side of the hull. I am leaning heavily towards doing a black bottom deck with a dark steel gray top deck, black turf, and either a black or gray handlepole. I would then go with black thru hull fittings and reinforcements.

    I was also planning on throwing in a stripped 650 long block into the hull but came across a deal on a complete 750 so that is the new plan. Eventually I will swap over to the rhass driveline setup (https://www.rhaasproducts.com/Produc...ode=550750pump) but for now I am just planning on running the 550 setup so I can get some water time in. That means that the red top 650 is for sale, if you want it shoot me a message. It is a complete good long block 160psi per the ebay seller with new crank seals. It spins super smooth by hand. I have a flywheel and magneto on the way for it and can toss a cover on if it will sell quicker that way.


    Time Spent:
    2 Hours, look I was bound to eventually figure out this stuff...

    Tools Used:
    Rockwell Oscillating Multi Tool
    5" Orbital Sander
    Shop Vac
    Mixing Cups
    Mixing Stick
    Drill with Step Bit
    1" Chisel

    Materials Used:
    8 OZ Denatured Alcohol
    4 Blue Shop Towels
    12 OZ Resin/Hardener
    24" 1208 Cloth
    1 Hazard Fart Paint Brush
    Painters Tape


    New Damage Done:
    2 Lost Rivets in the rear hull during sponson removal

    Muscles Strained:
    0

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Headhones
    Black Spider Gloves from Blowes

    Beer Consumed:
    0 (forgot to put them in the fridge

    Percentage complete:
    40%

    Sean




    Nose Reinforcement



    Cabosil on Bond Line at Rear



    Side Repair



    Side with additional Repair Required Shown, the hull is pretty lumpy there



    Tubby with Paint Removed



    Sponson Area with Paint Mostly Scraped (this thing is like a jawbreaker)



    Gross

  9. #9
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Inner Glasswork Part 3 (Where you feel like you are ready for some corners so you get wrecked)

    I rolled the hull upside down and attempted to layup the inner hood flange and hood to nose flange. Things didn't go well... I setup the hull on 2 bar stools and crawled under it. The hull did not fall and squish me so that was nice.

    I think I tried to run the strands the wrong direction because it was like trying to keep a tape measure bent down. Either way, it was a pain in the ass and ultimately didn't work properly. I was really hoping for good news when I went out this morning but it was not to be. I will end up cutting back the loose edge somehow and will redo the edge with some cloth to get a good wrap. Fiberglass is really not my thing though. I really want to get to the fun part of bolting stuff on but I know I need to do it right so slog away with fiberglass I must.


    Time Spent:
    4 Hours this was shit and I epoxied my head multiple times. I look like guy fieri now.

    Tools Used:
    Rockwell Oscillating Multi Tool
    5" Orbital Sander
    Shop Vac
    Mixing Cups
    Mixing Stick
    Dremel with roto-zip bit

    Materials Used:
    8 OZ Denatured Alcohol
    4 Blue Shop Towels
    12 OZ Resin/Hardener
    8" 1208 Cloth
    1 Hazard Fart Paint Brush
    Painters Tape
    misc clamps
    door shims wrapped in painters tape

    New Damage Done:
    none

    Muscles Strained:
    1

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Headhones
    Black Spider Gloves from Blowes

    Items of Clothing Ruined:
    Pair of jeans
    Long Sleeve Thermals
    Welding Jacket
    T-Shirt

    Leg Hair Removed when taking ruined jeans off due to epoxy drips:
    40%

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    12%

    Percentage complete:
    42% (This was an abject failure which I will probably not be redoing)

    Sean



    Peanut Butter Filled Motor Mounts



    MMMM Peanut Butter




    Don't forget to sand your peanut butter



    Safety First Gents


    My Workspace Last Night. It was awful.



    Clamped In Place (This was taken 12 hours later after it cured. I left the hull upside down last night)




    Nose that didn't stick, either I ran the glass the wrong direction or it was colder than the resin wanted to tack up. It didn't stick for shit.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    Well, it has come to this. My life has spiraled totally out of control and I now have to actually finish projects instead of just getting more and forgetting about them.
    I felt this, in my soul.

    The PO repair looks like a real POS. Your stuff is looking really nice!

  11. +1 by:


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