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  1. #71
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Hood Repair and Wax Racing Goodies 1 (Wax on in the hood brah)

    Not a whole lot to report but I am getting back to working on the ski. My wax racing parts came in after the corona delays and they look really nice. I picked up a top fuel adapter and a JS aluminum bed plate. I am excited to be getting closer to the end here.

    I also remove the hood liner to repair the hood properly. After a couple hours of trying to remove it as one piece, I broke out the multitool and chopped it up. I am also pretty sure I have figured out what was slathered all over the inside of my hull to "repair" the cracks. Best guess, its construction adhesive. Not sure what the previous owner was thinking but its been a huge pain to remove because it sands like jello. I have taken to just using a sharp wood chisel to scrape it off.

    The hood has cracks in the front 2 corners and the second inlet scoop popped out and cracked while trying to remove the hood liner. I think I am going to remove both of the porthole inlets and fabricobble something like a rear vertical inlet.

    Is there a good reference for hood mods somewhere? I am tempted just to run frogskinz or something similar over the holes but I don't want to sink my ski or lock up a motor from water intrusion. The engine will be running the stock flame arrestors for now but that may change down the road.

    Time Spent:
    2 Hours (If I ever meet who smeared all these construction adhesive boogies on this hull I will beat them with an orange in a tube sock...)

    Tools Used:
    Wood Chisel
    Hammer
    Oscillating multi tool with sanding pad and cutting paddle
    Shop Vac

    Slivers of SMC that slipped under my fingernail while trying to remove the hood liner:
    3

    Materials Used:
    None

    Threats of inventive bodily harm levied at the previous owner for their "repairs":
    10,000

    PPE Used:
    Worktunes Headphones
    Safety Squints (do as I say not as I do)
    Respirator

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    5% (I spent an afternoon chipping the cured schmoo of the floor after I got tired of my small casters getting hung up on my garage floor pimples)

    Percentage complete:
    30% (I need to figure out what I am going to do with the hood. Regardless of the path I take, I will need to do lots of repair work since its not in good shape.)


    Sean


    Inside the Hood


    Inside my bed(plate)


    Deep V


    Checkout my bottom


    Clearance, Clarence


    Top Fuel Baby (Who is focusing these pictures?)


    Wax On

  2. #72
    dcuhpw's Avatar
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    Looking good!


  3. #73
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Hood Repair and Pole Mods (Working the pole in the hood)

    After a few weeks of being a slug and not having the energy or drive to work on this thing, I finally forced myself back into the garage to get some work done. There really isn't much work left to do in the grand scheme of things but its stuff I am not particularly fond of. To add to that, we have been under a heat advisory for the last week in Houston and even though I insulated the garage door, its still 90+ in there.

    Bitching out of the way;

    I decided that rather than repair the hood with its scabbed on periscope inlets, I would cut both of them out and replace them with something else. To start with, I cut the holes and "patched" them up. I did a basic patch by lining the outside with foil, taping it up, and laying in a couple layers of biax on the holes. I also added a layer of cloth along the front corners of the hood where it was cracked. I plan to reinforce each corner and along the inside of the recess of the pole where I punched all the holes.

    To make sure I could still let the 750 breathe, I decided to punch some holes along the inside of the pole recess in the hood. I plan to line the inside of that with frogzskin and make a duct if it looks like it is dripping. For now, I will probably just run with the frogzskin over the holes. I started by making a template of the step and drawing a line down the middle. I offset the pattern from both sides to fit the holes without cutting the outer skin of the hood then spaced out the pattern. Prior to drilling, I used a punch to make the holes in the template. I stuck the template on the hood, marked the holes, and center drilled with a baby step bit. With the holes in place, I hogged them out to 1". Two Heinously Fried step drills valiantly attempted to drill through the smc only to ultimately surrender to dullness after completing the final holes.

    The hood partially done, I set out to chop the factory pvc out of the pole with said destroyed step drills. I was able to drill the tube down below flush with the mount and pop the adhesive out which let the tube fall away from the bulkhead and get stuck on the inside of the pole. I will have to fish that out once I cut the hole bigger for the new tube. The plan is to use the same tube as the kawasaki couches use in the back for ventilation. I am going to run that down to flush with the bottom of the hull and allow the wiring and steering run through it. The pole mount will have to be enlarged to fit the bigger tube but that shouldn't be an issue.

    Time Spent:
    6 Hours (Have I pointed out before that I am not a bodywork expert? This should be apparent by now to both me and you dear readers.)

    Tools Used:
    M12 90 degree drill
    Wood Chisel
    Hammer
    Oscillating multi tool with sanding pad and cutting paddle
    Shop Vac

    Materials Used:
    4oz Resin
    1 Paint Brush
    1 Stir Stick
    12"x12" Biax
    12"x12" Cloth
    24" Aluminum Foil
    Painters Tape

    PPE Used:
    Worktunes Headphones
    Safety Squints (do as I say not as I do)
    Respirator

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    5% (I learned to Put Masking Paper Down)

    Percentage complete:
    40% (I still need to fix the corners, glass the inside of the hood, and figure out what I am going to do about diverters)

    Sean


    Where We Last Left Our Hero


    Holes Patched


    Plan For New Holes


    Gonna Need A Template


    Mark The Offset, Spacing, And Punch Holes


    Ruin 2 Cheap Unibits Drilling 22 Holes


    There's A Hole In My Pole


    PVC Punched Out And Prepped For Enlargement


    PVC Calamari Rings

  4. #74
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Hood Liner Fab and Waterbox Part 1 (An Exercise in Watercraft Cross Pollination)

    This is exhausting... (it had to be said, you know it, I know it, lets just move on...)

    Since no one could (or would) tell me what a good and inexpensive waterbox for a 750 swapped JS would be, I decided to solve the problem by gambling on ebay. I vaguely remember (lots of fumes on this project) hearing that a Seadoo XP waterbox from the mid 90s would fit in the nose of a JS and be approximately the right size. After playing around in paint.net with a blurry ebay picture and scaling off the hose clamp hex head, I bit the bullet and paid 2 Jeffer's for a Barney Purple Waterbox from a 1992 XP 587. Despite the crap state of the world right now, I managed to get lucky and the box look like it will work really well. The box has a 2" inlet and outlet. Its about 13" OAL and 7" in diameter. The Inlet and Outlet are a little close to the hull for my liking but I think I can live with it. It looks like I will need a couple of tight radius 180s and a 45 degree coupler. I also placed and order for a bunch of yoga blocks to make the support for it and my pipe.

    Fortunately, this looks like its one less hurdle I can use as an excuse for why the ski still isn't done. Call it a win.

    In my last post, I punched a bunch of holes in the hood. To wrap up that bundle of nonsense, I needed to make a liner to keep water from just pouring into the intake of the ski since it will inevitably end up on its side or wet side up. Cardboard to the rescue. I first traced the flange of the hood onto a box stolen from my AKORN's replacement grill grate. Obviously the hood tapers to I carefully measured the hood with a calibrated 3 foot eye squint and cut INSIDE THE LINES. After much trimming and cursing about living as a left handed man in a right handed world, the template fit. I traced the outline onto 2 layers of 1208, mixed up 12oz of resin, and laid up the glass on a trash bag taped to my garage floor. Once I got the glass soaked and the excess resin squeegeed out I laid another trash bag on top and used some plywood and a stack of dead YTX-20BS batteries to ensure it was sufficiently flat.

    Time Spent:
    2 Hours (cardboard isn't itchy, why don't we use it for everything?)

    Tools Used:
    Wiss Scissors
    Sharpie
    YTX-20BS Batteries (Dead)

    Materials Used:
    Cardboard
    12oz Resin
    1 Paint Brush
    1 Stir Stick
    12"x12" Biax
    2 Trash Bags
    Painters Tape

    PPE Used:
    GORILLA GLOVES

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    5% (double up your protection)

    Percentage complete:
    45% (Hopefully the layup I did is not stiffer than the hood, maybe 2 layers was too much since I still need to glue it to the inner curve of the hood I also need to make some finger slot plugs so you can pull the hood)

    Sean


    New Vents


    Start of the Template


    It Fits (mostly)


    Skipped a Few Steps but Here it is Resting Peacefully Until Tomorrow.


    I Don't Normally Endorse Using DOO Parts as a Dirty Green Man, but This Fit The Bill


    Inlet and Exhaust Positions


    Inlet Diameter, Made Ya Look


    It Verrrrks!


    Toight Loik a Toiger


    Gonna Have to Loop it

  5. #75
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Hood Liner Installation Part 1 (Garbage Glass is a pain in the ass)

    In the last post, I set about making a flat insert piece to install as a hood liner to keep water from raining into the carb intakes. I thought that by using a trash bag laid flat and slightly stretched I would get the surface flat enough for no one to ever see. That wasn't how it actually went down. Shortly after I did the layup on the glass, I decided it was a good idea to add another trash back on top so I could put some extra squeeze on the layup and keep bubbles from working into it (have I mentioned that I am not good at fiberglass layup?) On my previous project, I was fortunate enough to have a waxed melamine table or large sheet of glass that I used to do flat parts. I don't have that luxury right now since I have way too much crap in my garage at the moment. When I added the other trash bag to the glass stack, it apparently stuck and wrinkled the second layer before I put the weights on top which left bubbles that needed to be ground out. It also gave the glass a surface finish not unlike a spray on bedliner.

    Given the above, I broke out the orbital sander and knocked back as much as I had the motivation for and called it adequate. That done, I laid out my cardboard template and traced out the shape, then cut it out with my scroll saw. I knocked back the rough edges and gave it a test fit. Reasonably happy with that, I mixed up 4oz of resin with some cabosil and I drilled several 1/4" holes in the hood and liner then used 1/4-20 bolts with washers and nuts to pinch the liner to the hood shape. Once the middle was secure, I mixed another 8oz of resin and cabosil up and went around the perimeter to smooth where the seam of the hood liner met the inside of the hood.

    From there, I cut several strips of fiberglass cloth and reinforced the new joint and added another 2 layers and 8oz of straight to the corners where the hood seals with the ski.

    Time Spent:
    3 Hours (Learn from my mistakes, if you start with a garbage idea, you will get rubbish results.)

    Tools Used:
    Scroll Saw
    Wiss Scissors
    Orbital sander
    Shop Vac
    Drill
    1/4" Drill Bit
    Impact driver and 7/16' socket
    7/16" wrench

    Materials Used:
    HF Bum-Hair Paint Brush
    20oz Resin
    1 Paint Brush
    1 Stir Stick
    36x12" Fiberglass Cloth

    PPE Used:
    GORILLA GLOVES
    Organic Vapor Respirator

    Number of times I cabosil'd myself to random objects in the garage after stepping on discarded gloves used to smear cabosil around:
    12

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    11% (I almost slipped and died on the now loose trash bag that I left on the floor, planting my foot firmly on a blob of cabosil epoxy which I then tracked around like a roomba that ran over dog poop)

    Percentage complete:
    60% (I still need to figure out how I want to install vent hoses on the new liner, I think I will probably run them from the front of the hood to the area on either side of the fuel tank)

    Sean


    Garbo-Glass


    Trash Layup


    Rubbish Bubbles


    Scrap Outline


    Basura Surface Finish


    Wasted Cabosil


    Crappy Cloth


    Cooper the Best Write-up Helper Ever (ignore the original and terrible 1980's carpet)

  6. #76
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Exhaust Tubing Part 1 (Swapping my bluetooth exhaust for a physical connection)

    The list of remaining things I have that I can complain about being the reason for why this ski is still as dry as the Atacama Desert just got shortened. I finally connected my PJS pipe to my purple seadoo muffler and then connected that to the tube I stuck in this thing back on June 25th. The fit up went reasonably well, I started with the waterbox which uses a single 45 degree elbow from the stinger to the box inlet.

    The stinger needs to get cut and welded to use the larger 2" exit I selected for the rest of the system but that is a minor mod that will hopefully get done soon since I am not the one who will be doing it.

    From the waterbox (which is mounted at an odd angle but it fits so who is keeping score) another 45 degree elbow is used to space and angle the outlet tighter to the pole mount on the nose of the ski. The 45 connects to a chopped 180 degree bend which rises as high into the nose as I could get it before tucking up to the bottom of the hood flange with a straight coupler and another tight radius 90. That 90 connects to the straight tube with another straight coupler where it runs past the tank and carbs before connecting at a slight angle to the rear exit. I may pull the rear exit back further and use a longer section of coupler since I have 3' of straight 4 ply silicone tube to play with.

    That done, I took one of the yoga blocks I piked up and used it to make a waterbox support. I am not thrilled with how that turned out but once I throw some turf on the backside of the box (or wrap it) and throw a strap over it, I think it will be fine (and no one will be able to see it)

    Time Spent:
    1.5 Hours (I will probably keep working on this or get back to tearing my stxr carbs down this evening)


    Tools Used:
    Portaband on Swag Table
    New Boxcutter Blade
    Belt/Disc Sander
    Hackzall with 12" wood cutting blade


    Materials Used:
    1 180deg 2" U Bend
    1 90 deg 2" Bend
    1 24" x 2" Straight Tube
    3 2"x3" 4 Ply Silicone Couplers
    2 45 degree 2" 4 Ply Silicone Elbow
    1 4"x6"x9" Foam Yoga Block
    Painters Tape


    PPE Used:
    Reef Bottle Opener Safety Sandals


    Times my Bunghole Puckered while freehand cutting the only aluminum tubes I bought:
    69


    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    11% (I am getting ready to bust out the cab or 5200 to glue the rear exhaust tube in so its about to get messy)


    Percentage complete:
    90% (Gotta order hose clamps and glue in a waterbox strap mount. I am pretty happy with how this went together.)


    Sean


    Waterbox and outlet peeking out


    Weird U/J/L Bend to tuck the tube up high


    Couldn't be happier with how that part fit


    Not happy with how that fits...


    Just barely touching the tank, I will either sleeve that with silicone or turf and call it good unless that's a major fire hazard...


    System layout once in the open where you can see it and not my blurry closeups


    Yoga block mount and routing


    Top view


    A photo of the inside of my nose from inside my nose.

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