Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 70
  1. #51
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7,530
    +1
    734
    Expensive hardware. Much more expensive than genuine aircraft hardware (which is actually cheaper than most of the local hardware stores).

  2. #52
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,927
    +1
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Expensive hardware. Much more expensive than genuine aircraft hardware (which is actually cheaper than most of the local hardware stores).
    Yep, I am considering using aircraft stuff for a few projects because the specs for shank length are given and accurate.

    Sean

  3. #53
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7,530
    +1
    734
    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    Yep, I am considering using aircraft stuff for a few projects because the specs for shank length are given and accurate.

    Sean
    But you won't find it in metric stainless steel.

  4. #54
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,927
    +1
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    But you won't find it in metric stainless steel.
    That is the downside. Stainless metric is like unicorn fur in general.

    Sean

  5. #55
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,927
    +1
    368
    Driveline Conversion and Lower Deck Finish Part 1 (Twisted Certs and A pain in the Rhaas)

    Driveline Swap Kit

    This post is going to seem fairly critical of the parts I have, please understand that I am not badmouthing the company nor the parts themselves. I fully understand that making a full driveline swap that fits a fiberglass hull made in 1987 using components from 3+ other skis is not a trivial task. I also understand that there is quite a bit that goes into fabricating a component inexpensively while still making it suitable for our application. The components are well thought out and fill a niche that is highly specialized and I am happy that someone took the time to put it together. I have used the Rhaas motor mounts and adapter plates on this project and have been very happy with their components.

    On the driveline conversion pieces, I opted to save some money and purchased the cheaper composite plate rather than the upgraded aluminum one. I feel like I made a mistake in doing so and will be reaching out to see if I can purchase the plate separately. This post is in no way asking for a handout nor do I expect one. The components are some form of molded polymer with fiber reinforcement. I am not a plastics/composite guy so I don't know specifics. I will say that the pictures on the Rhaas Products website made it look like the plate was fiberglass while the actual part is more close to a plastic reinforced with some kind of mesh. Again, not an expert.

    Given that its not a race ski and it is probably better to flex the plate than crack it, this is not the end of the world.

    Since I removed the rear hull extensions, I will probably end up cutting the plate shorter since it hangs off a fair bit now.

    The shoe adapter required some massaging to seat properly. To clear the steering cable passthrough, I had to cut away enough material that I broke through into the seal area. I am not sure if this will end up being an issue since the directions suggest a healthy coating of 5200 over everything.

    The machined components look well made and come anodized. The surface finish is a little coarse but its an adapter plate so who cares. I was a little surprised how much work went into developing the swap kit, none of the parts are at a 90 degree angle, it took quite a bit of thinking to get the pump kit to assemble the way it did and once assembled, it fits nicely.

    The pump install actually requires you to modify the pump housing. Uncut, the pump actually will not fit into the opening at all. The swap also requires you to place 4 new 3/8" diameter holes in the pump mount so they will bolt into the adapter plates.

    Prior to finishing up the dry fit on the pump conversion, I had to clean the hull down to bare smc which was not a fun process. The entire bottom deck had multiple layers of paint, gel coat, more paint, and silicone on it. Once that was cut back, the components were marked, drilled and dry fit.

    The last 2 issues I ran into do not involve the Rhaas parts, rather the supporting parts. As part of the kit, you need an intake grate from a 750sx. I picked up a solas one because it had a scoop and was reasonably cheap. The first problem is that the scoop is too wide. I ended up taking 0.25" off each side and knocking the sharp edges back on the grate to make it fit. The second issue was that at some point my hull was "repaired" with new threaded inserts. these inserts were not flush with the hull which caused the intake grate to sit proud of the hull. In the process to correct that, one insert fell out of the hole while the other broke flush with the hull. I am still in the process of figuring out a repair for this. I am not thrilled about the inserts being stainless as I have galled bolts before, I have also had them corrode together and get stuck. I would prefer a brass insert but I am not sure if I have any right now.

    One final item on the driveline. Currently the exhaust hits the inside of the hull on the left something fierce. I don't really want to cut the hull since I spent quite a bit of time making the inside nice but I will if that is the best option. I am holding off on doing that until I get the pump mounted and the driveshaft installed since I want to make sure the engine alignment is reasonably close before I start hacking.


    Bodywork

    I also broke out the trusty sanding block and tube and cut back the filler I applied a month or so ago, I was happy to find that it is not full of low spots. I was unhappy to find 15-30 pinholes that I will have to fill before I can throw a coat of paint on it. That's life though, can't complain.

    The last remaining items on the bottom of the hull which still need to be addressed are, the rear sponson inserts which were previously riveted on and I drilled out to do the bodywork, and the front tubbies which have no mounting hardware on them.

    On the sponsons, I may do something like an aluminum rivnut with a ton of epoxy behind it or since I am planning to do a rear exhaust, I may just carve out some of the foam and epoxy a ufo mount or aluminum plate onto the inside of the hull. To do the other side I would need to plan for a scupper install which may still be an option.

    The tubbies originally had flat head screws on them and were just 5200'd to the hull. I removed all the hardware because I needed clearance on the inside for the motor swap. I am considering just glassing over the edges and filling the holes since they are bonded and foamed to the hull already but I am not set on that route.


    Time Spent:
    8 Hours (remove paint, gelcoat, paint, gelcoat, and silicone. Flip ski repeat process. Mount part, mark holes drill, repeat process. Sand bottom deck, find pinholes, start threads pass out.)

    Tools Used:
    Broom
    Shop Vac
    Air Blow Gun
    Box Cutter
    Oscillating Multitool
    Drill and various bits
    Spring Loaded Center Punch

    Materials Used:
    4 sheets of 80 grit sandpaper

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Headhones

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    22.2% (no epoxy has been used recently, I need to flip the hull and prepare for more glasswork)

    Percentage complete:
    35% (I am not super happy with how this stuff currently fits so I may pull it off and redo some of it.)

    Sean


    Hull on side, dry fit. If you look close at the steering cable mount, you can see where I had to "relieve it" It is a deceptively simple part in that it looks on first glance that its simple but there is some real work that went into making this work right.


    Slightly Better Angle


    Holes Marked and Center Drilled. Not shown are the full 0/375" diameter holes and the other cuts needed. Basically you cut the rear ears off (shown on left) and reduce the width by 0.3"ish on each side. I will add a picture once I have it cut per the Rhaas template.


    Solas intake grate not fitting, wings for heavy flow days I guess.


    Scribed cut lines 0.25" from the edge


    And it fits


    Damaged and missing bungs, even with these cut back the grate still hangs a bit out into the flow of the shoe. I may mill back the mount a bit to get it to sit further flush with the hull inlet.


    Assembled swap minus driveshaft and fastners. It still needs to finesse


    Kit minus intake grate and rideplate. I had to cut the shoe mouth piece quite a bit to get it seated all the way so that it wouldn't twist the adapter plate. This would have been less of an issue if I had not been a cheapass and bought the aluminum shoe.


    Gaps around where the intake grate mounts. Initially I thought the intake grate mounted to the plastic pieces but it bolts to the pump.


    Not sure what I can do to clean up this area, its going to need a lot of work to get a good flow path there. This is really the only area where I am not happy with the kit. The rest I can live with but this is going to require quite a bit of buildup.

    All that said, I would buy the kit again. I think it's expensive for the parts you get but you aren't really paying for just the parts, you are paying for all the work that went into getting the system to a point that someone can order the kit and use it without a huge amount of work. I can see that it was a process to get everything right and I can safely say, I would not have done this for myself if I had to start from scratch on it. I would have liked it more if the parts fit better but given the process limitations of the materials, they are close enough. If the parts had been made out of a different material or process, the cost would be too much to consider so I think they did their due diligence on them. I do maintain that the aluminum adapter piece is probably worth the extra cost and I will be ordering one if Rhaas will let me.

    Sean

  6. #56
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7,530
    +1
    734
    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    Solas intake grate not fitting, wings for heavy flow days I guess.

    Sean


    Almost spit on my keyboard.

    I was wondering what your status on this was.

    I was just thinking this morning about engine mounts in my next project, stainless or brass. I was thinking that I would buy some brass bar stock from www.onlinemetals.com, drill and tap them, and glass them in in the correct place. It will be a long time before I get to work on it.

    I picked up a wrecked Ultra LX that I plan to use the engine out of, then scrap the hull. Now, however, I'm thinking I would be wise to cut out the bottom and rear of the hull from the pump shoe to the very back, including the ride plate. My nephew has a 900 ZXi hull with a hole in the bottom and no engine. I always liked the ZXi hull because is spins easily and is just a lot of fun to play on. A 4-stroke ZXi... Who knows?

  7. #57
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,927
    +1
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post


    Almost spit on my keyboard.

    I was wondering what your status on this was.

    I was just thinking this morning about engine mounts in my next project, stainless or brass. I was thinking that I would buy some brass bar stock from www.onlinemetals.com, drill and tap them, and glass them in in the correct place. It will be a long time before I get to work on it.

    I picked up a wrecked Ultra LX that I plan to use the engine out of, then scrap the hull. Now, however, I'm thinking I would be wise to cut out the bottom and rear of the hull from the pump shoe to the very back, including the ride plate. My nephew has a 900 ZXi hull with a hole in the bottom and no engine. I always liked the ZXi hull because is spins easily and is just a lot of fun to play on. A 4-stroke ZXi... Who knows?
    I have been popping out any insert I can on the hulls I have cut up for that reason. I have 2 of the steering/reverse inserts now so when I get around to adding trim, I can use oe parts rather than my an fitting adapters.

    Sean

  8. #58
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,927
    +1
    368
    Exhaust Part 1 (Exhausting All My Options)

    Driveline Swap Kit Redux

    I want to start this post by saying that I reached out to Robin at Rhaas and I have an aluminum bulkhead on order now. Rhaas has been very quick to get me squared away and I am very happy with their customer service. I will update once I receive the new aluminum bulkhead. I am excited to get the part in so I can get the bottom end wrapped up.

    I finished up grinding the pump housing per the instructions and got the pump dry fit in the hull. After that, I played around some more with pump alignment and spacing and got everything dialed in for the most part. The Rhaas Products motor mounts fit great as do the adapter plates for the motor conversion. I was able to throw the conversion bearing (also a very nicely made piece) on and slip the x2 driveshaft in and test fit the exhaust.

    Exhaust

    The exhaust has been a part I have not been looking forward to since I decided to ditch the perfectly adequate red top 650 for the big pin 750 that I am using now. I spent quite a bit of time reading through the other 750 swap builds so I had some warning about what it would take to make everything happy in this little hull. Running the OE 650 pipe was my original option because it was cheap and small but that quickly went out the window (after I got my oe 650 pipe in the mail, anyone want a really clean 650 pipe?) because several members pointed out that it would SERIOUSLY restrict the 750. In the interest of doing it correctly the first time, I chucked it on a shelf and ordered this PJS 650 pipe as its replacement since it is supposed to flow substantially more than stock. I imagine it won't measure up to a true 750 pipe but for now it should work reasonably well.

    Once all the driveline pieces were on the hull, I threw the motor in and tried to fit the exhaust. The first piece that needed modification was the rubber exhaust connector that connects the up pipe to the front half of the chamber. I measured and trimmed the connector so that the 2 metal pipes would butt directly up against each other.

    That done, the pipe mount off the stock 3 bolt exhaust manifold had to be modified to allow the chamber mount to actually sit up against the manifold. This required a fairly large chunk to be removed and ground back for the exhaust to even consider fitting up against the manifold.

    With that out of the way, I unsuccessfully tried to fit the pipe in the hull again. This time, the mount that bolts to the manifold that I ground back had to be clearanced to pull the pipe closer to the center of the hull. I ended up grinding back about 3/16" - 1/4" before the pipe chamber would tuck in far enough. to clear the hull.

    That done, the pipe still wouldn't fit properly, I inspected the chamber and found that it was egg shaped. Worse, it was egged in the wrong direction. A little persuasion with the vice and I was able to slip the coupler over the end of the chamber. The problem is that the rubber coupler that connects the chamber to the stinger is touching not only the hull, but also the stator cover and the cases. The bigger problem is that the positive lead to the starter is also touching the chamber and will require some creative denting. Having accomplished almost nothing, I moved onto seeing what else would hit.

    To wrap up the night, I tried to fit the stock fuel tank in the hull and found out that it also hits on the stinger and will either need to be modified, or replaced with an aftermarket cell. Not knowing the material the stock tank is made out of, I am not entirely comfortable heating it up and trying to dent it.

    At this point, I gave up and here we are.


    Couple questions, what should I do for noise control and what size pipe do I need for a rear exhaust?

    Time Spent:
    2 Hours (Flip hull, dry fit engine again, unsuccessfully try to fit pipe, try not to cry, cry a lot, take pipe out, cut metal, try again, swear to calm down, modify, try again, giveup for the night and write post with excessive word count)

    Tools Used:
    Broom
    Shop Vac
    Air Die Griner w/ Tungsten Carbide Cutter
    Bench Sander
    Bench Vice

    Materials Used:
    N/A

    PPE Used:
    3M Worktunes Headhones

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    22.2%

    Percentage complete:
    45% (If this exhaust leaks, I am just foaming the whole hull and running a snorkel to the carbs.)

    Sean



    Lower Manifold Mount Issue



    Positive Lead to Starter Motor Issue



    Hull Issue



    Clamped and Ready for Surgery



    Logo and Overspray



    Fixtured and Ready to Grind



    Before (there is no after, don't get your hopes up)



    "Clearance"



    "Bump Stop" Once the clamp is on there, I think it will be okay. Not "okay" okay, but okay in that the clamp will rub on the case and not the rubber.



    After (I wouldn't leave you hanging like that, neither will this mount... once a new hole is drilled and tapped)



    Hanger offset, new mount needs to be drilled and tapped so I can secure this bad boy



    Look at all this room for activities



    Positively Spacious



    Merde


    Fin.


  9. #59
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    7,530
    +1
    734
    Looks like you're getting close!

  10. #60

    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Lake Houston
    Posts
    51
    +1
    6
    Just came across the thread and I am now subscribed. I'm also in Houston area (Lake Houston) and also am embarking on a 550SX project. I started a thread on another forum because I didnt see any stand-up activity here (maybe my mistake). Anyway - You've done some great work, not only the ski but also your detailed and extensive posts. I'm looking forward to reading/seeing more!

  11. +1 by:


Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. WTB - Parts Looking for parts for 85 JS550 project.
    By wkuadam07 in forum Kawasaki Classifieds
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-13-2014, 11:54 PM
  2. Smokeysevin's slightly derpy trailer project
    By smokeysevin in forum Trailer Modification/Projects
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 12-01-2014, 09:11 PM
  3. JS550 Picklefork? Really trippy project on CL.
    By afcblink in forum Sea Doo Sport Boats
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-25-2009, 10:25 PM
  4. Smokeysevin's STX 12F Project
    By smokeysevin in forum Kawasaki Projects
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-29-2009, 10:58 PM
  5. 1988 Kawasaki js550 standup with aftermarket motor
    By jjbncmt in forum Kawasaki Skis
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-05-2008, 02:39 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •