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  1. #41
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Filling in the low spots Part 2 (THE REFIL-IN-ING)


    Dawn of the first day (48 hours remain)


    I started out yesterday by knocking back (rather aggressively) the cake icing with a combination of the belt sander and disc sander. This got rid of most of the wrinkles and left me with a reasonably smooth surface. Once that was done and mostly flat, I blasted it with some black crust-oleum paint so I could see the low spots. I gave that time to dry and retired to the parlor to consider my life choices for the remainder of the evening. Once the witching hour arrived, I drifted into a fitful slumber and arose at the dawn of a new day.


    Dawn of the second day (24 hours remain)


    Tonight I went back to the garage and attacked the hull by hand with a 2 foot section of 3" diameter SCH 40 PVC Pipe. To actually remove material, I wrapped it in a full sheet of 80 grit purple sandpaper. This was pretty effective at removing the high spots from the chines. Mostly I went back and forth along the axis of the hull, the only tricky part was getting the transition points between the chine and the center of the hull. To take care of that area, I sanded on an alternating 45 and 135 degree pattern which seems to have worked pretty well.


    To finish the hull off. I mixed up 2 batches of the micro balloons and resin, this time each was 4oz resin and 2 scoops of the filler. This mixed to a thick but still leveling consistency which I applied with a paint brush. I will be letting this setup and then repeating the sanding process tomorrow but hopefully with 150 grit to prep for a high build primer.


    SIDE NOTE: I know everyone talks about not using cheap brushes because they shed like a husky in the summertime in Houston. There is a very good reason for that, picking out brush bristles is one of the most frustrating things I have done during this build. DON'T USE CHEAP BRUSHES


    We will pick this up tomorrow to see how much more filler I need or if I just say screw it, its a JS hull and leave it as is...




    Time Spent:
    8 Hours over 2 days (Hand sanding with pvc pipe is a real workout, 3 hours of that was popping bubbles in the resin and picking lost brush hairs out of the filler...)


    Tools Used:
    Ryobi 3x18" Belt Sander
    Porter Cable 5" Orbital Sander
    Shop Vac
    2'X3" SCH 40 PVC pipe
    1/3 Sheet Sandpaper Drywall Sander Holder Thing


    Materials Used:
    8OZ Resin
    4 Scoops of Micro Balloons
    6 80 Grit Sand Paper Sheets
    2 cheap paint brushes (learn from my mistakes, heed my warning young warrior)


    Time Spent with Garage Door Open, shaking my ass back and forth while my neighbors looked on in horror:
    2 hours, you have gotta use your legs when sanding. If you don't feel the burn, you won't get them gains. Never skip leg day, even if you are truing a hull.



    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    Tyvek Suit
    3M Worktunes Headhones
    4 pairs Hazard Frito 7mil blue bomber gloves (Sandpaper kept ripping them)


    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    26.2% (Negligible Gains due to the brush bristles coming off the damn paintbrush)


    Percentage complete:
    90% (I think I have one more round of sanding before I sling some high build filler primer on it.)


    Sean






    Always let your Rustoleum be your guide





    Sanding tool thing I used, its a plastic handle with some foam on it with clips that come loose anytime you look at it funny



    Areas where I didn't have the layup schedule flat and sanded into the CSM layer show texture, Not my best moment.




    We have established that cabosil is peanut butter, lots of microballoons are marshmallow fluff, allow me to introduce to you, doughnut glaze!




    This little guy, don't worry about that little guy...

  2. #42
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Motor and Electronics Part 1 (A Brief Intermission from Your Regularly Scheduled Program, Don't Get Used to it)

    I will start by saying, I don't get the electronics setup on standups. That is a drastic oversimplification, but from a user and dealership perspective this setup has some really stupid "features". I cut my teeth with 4 stroke runabouts and all that stuff makes sense to me (except for seadoos, really brp?) You can pull the motor without opening any electronics up or having to hang the ecu off the motor when you go to remove it. The E-Box to me is basically a waste of space and weight. The electronics on the 4 stroke runabouts don't typically fail and when they do, its the gauges (for the most part). That being said, I plan to use that style of electronics to both simplify and add lightness on this build.

    Complaints:

    1) The entire system is interconnected without easily reachable disconnects. On the runabouts (couches) and most other vehicles the harness can be unplugged from the system without removing bolts (looking at you stator wiring)

    2) The method of sealing the E-Box relies on orb fittings made of plastic that then have to be tightened against to seal the wiring that passes through them. It works as long as the fittings are tight (but not too tight) and as long as the rubber is new.

    3) The E-Box itself contains a weird mix of sealed and unsealed electronics. The ECU itself is potted but the connections to the trim and power wires are unsealed. The fuse holder is sealed in the E box but the connections are open. The coil wires are sealed with epoxy (more or less permanently) while the starter solenoid is open.

    Proposed Solution:

    1) Since the ECU is potted and I have a ready supply of sealed connectors, I am just going to mount the stock ECU on a plate and connect the system using stock style sumitomo connectors that are commonly used on the runabouts.

    2) By swapping to an external setup, it eliminates the issue with Complaint 2, I will also be moving the coil and starter solenoid to a plate rather than a box. For the coil I will swap to the couch coil with different plug ends, for the solenoid, I will probably use one of the seadoo solenoids since they are small and sealed. Basically I will be replicating the STX-15f style electronics. This will free up lots of space and make the install much cleaner and more modern. Service should be loads easier.

    Mounts and Swap

    I finally got around to opening my first round of goodies from Rhaas Products today. From a first glance, the mounts are really well made and the adapter plate is very nicely machined. I thought the custom hardware was a nice touch for the bedplate adapter. I also placed my order for the driveline conversion today, I went with the grooved plate, standard plastic bulkhead (for now) and added the conversion bearing. My X2 Driveshaft showed up today and my 750 Pump and 650 nozzle are on the way.

    Motor

    As for the motor, I have not spent much time going over it. Externally, it is super clean. I will probably get into it tomorrow or Friday to give it a once over. Off the bat, I need both the oil pump blockoff and the crankcase drain blockoff. I will need new reed gaskets and carb gaskets, 2 carb kits, and exhaust gaskets. I plan to do a leakdown test on the engine and verify the crank seals are ok before going too far with it. Plans for now are to run it stock but freshened up.

    Time Spent:
    4 Hours (most of which was spent cleaning the cocaine sanding dust out of the work area and wheeling my shop carts around)

    Tools Used:
    Broom
    Shop Vac
    Air Blow Gun
    Box Cutter

    Materials Used:
    None

    PPE Used:
    Half Respirator
    3M Worktunes Headhones

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    22.2% (I removed some cured epoxy)

    Percentage complete:
    N/A (Taking a break from composite work to plan out where the engine and electronics are going to live)

    Sean



    Missing features? The "holes" are sealed.



    The whole ECU is potted, I have tried to removed this before on a STX-15f Ecu when I was looking into flash tools and its a royal pain. The STX ecus are sealed really well, I would not hesitate to run this out of the E-Box provided I can get a good connector installed.



    It really reminds me of a shrunken 15f Ecu which makes sense given this was probably 10 years older than when the 12f came out.




    Parts, Living on the gulf coast, well away from fresh water, I am not used to seeing older gear that is this clean.



    RHAAS PRODUCTS BABY




  3. #43
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Potential Paint Scheme 1 (Enforced Idleness Breeds Boredom)


    I am currently waiting on parts and don't really feel like getting dusty right now so I spent some time bench racing and making go-fast graphics. I got to talking with a buddy of mine over the weekend and since the 750 I am dropping in is so clean he suggested using the big pin 750 color as an accent on the ski. I hadn't considered it but thought it could be a cool setup. I also already had some interlux brightsides steel grey for an unrelated project that got put on hold which led to this.





    It's not finished by any stretch of the imagination but I am happy with where its going so far.


    Time Spent:
    1.5 Hours (I found a base layout online from IPD and set about removing all their hard work so I could scribble over it in crayon)


    Tools Used:
    Paint.NET
    Corsair K95 RGB Keyboard
    TTEsports Level 10M Mouse
    MSI 34" Ultrawide
    Hyper-X Cloud 2 Headphones
    Ikea Desk Chair


    Materials Used:
    None (bits and bytes only)



    PPE Used:
    None (I too like to live dangerously)


    Music Listened to with the Wife While I Worked:
    Ida Mae (British blues group, give them a listen)



    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    22.2% (Working in the study)


    Percentage complete:
    N/A (Taking a break from composite work to plan out where the engine and electronics are going to live)


    Sean

  4. #44
    steve45's Avatar
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    It's been over a week since we've heard from you...

  5. #45
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Small Update 1 (Intermission, go get some snacks)


    Sorry Steve, I have been kind of dragging ass lately for which I apologize. Mostly this time has been spent waiting on parts or working on other projects. I had a string of bad ebay luck and received some broken parts, fought to get a refund, waited, ordered more parts, never got them, fought for a refund, ultimately got my money back, and finally reordered from a less sketchy seller.

    In route is a 750 pump assembly to match the Rhass driveline conversion. Supposedly its still being made, hopefully it will show up soon.

    I received my electrical parts from Eastern Beaver and did a base layout of how I am planning to mount the electrics.

    I also bead blasted the motor mount adapters and installed the bedplate adapter onto the 750. Once I stuck it in the hull, I realized I don't remember which way the bedplate goes on the motor so I may need to flip it around. I am also not happy with the way the paint is holding up on the bedplate and motor mount adapters so I may end up redoing them.

    I have a line on a 650 coffmans pipe and a 650 pjs pipe for the 750, any preference towards one or the other?

    Time Spent:
    3 Hours (Blasting, spraying, cleaning, and bolting)

    Tools Used:
    Impact Driver
    Blast Cabinet

    Materials Used:
    Glass Bead Blast Media
    Black High Temp auto paint
    Cardboard

    PPE Used:
    Half Mask Respirator

    Weeks Wasted Without Doing Anything on the Ski :
    1

    Percentage of Garage Floor Epoxy Coated
    22.2% (no new epoxy but there are some black over spray marks)

    Percentage complete:
    N/A (Please be careful out there, stay home wherever possible.)

    Sean

    Motor Mount Adapters (I am not thrilled with how well the paint stuck, I will probably redo these and the bedplate)


    Stator Cavity ( I am really not used to ski motors being as corrosion free as this one is, its a welcome surprise)



    Motor Swap Adapter and Oil Drain Blockoff


    Placed in for Fit Check


    Electrics Layout and Spacing Option

  6. #46
    steve45's Avatar
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    Looks good!

    Sorry to hear you had problems with Ebay parts. I bought a used radio for my airplane on Ebay this month and it didn't work. However, the seller was able to come through with one that worked.

    I've bought a number of things from Ebay seller texash2oracer. He's been quite helpful and he's probably less than an hour's drive from you.

  7. #47
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Looks good!

    Sorry to hear you had problems with Ebay parts. I bought a used radio for my airplane on Ebay this month and it didn't work. However, the seller was able to come through with one that worked.

    I've bought a number of things from Ebay seller texash2oracer. He's been quite helpful and he's probably less than an hour's drive from you.
    Yeah, I think that is Curtis. If so, I bought my trailer from him a few years ago. Real nice guy and pretty close like you said. I found his ebay store after dealing with this nonsense.

    I am trying to shuffle stuff around in the garage right now so I can get back to work soon.

    Despite all the corona virus stuff I have been at our materials lab for the last 2 weeks. I am working on fabricating and testing a prototype for a project I have been working on since last year.

    Most of the time I can split my week between the office and working from home but this actually requires my presence to work on. The kicker is that its a medical device so I have been told that I am "essential" and have to be there... With how the economy is going though I am just happy to still be employed and the project has me isolated anyways so I can't complain too much.

    Sean

  8. #48
    steve45's Avatar
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    Yes, Curtis is the guy. I met him during a trip to Galveston a couple of years ago. He was able to provide me with a part that wasn't shown on the Kawasaki parts diagram.

    Glad to hear that you're staying busy. I'm in sales in the oil industry, and I'm running out of people to call on.


  9. #49
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Small Update 2 (Intermission, how were your snacks?)

    While I am waiting on the rhaas products pump conversion kit to ship, I picked up my exhaust and did a dry fit of the engine.

    The PJS pipe hits the hull next to the front motor mount which I sort of expected. I need to mill the manifold-to-head face down to tuck it closer into the engine. I think I am also going to mill back the stinger mount so I can fit the chamber mount properly. The concern I have is that if I move the pipe too far towards the motor, it will hit the starter motor battery stud.

    The cone needs some work, the lip is missing a few chunks and since its for a 650, I may play with the length a bit to open it up.

    To tie the whole thing together, I am planning to bead blast the aftermarket parts and paint them factory Kawasaki teal.

    Sean



    PJS Pipe and Manifold




    Test Fit 1

  10. #50
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Small Update 3 (Intermission and the beatings will continue until morale improves)

    I am wrapping up the 4wd swap and wiring on my tundra (see sig) which has kept me really busy. In the meantime I have been picking up parts to keep working. My fuel system parts have been delivered along with the rhass products pump swap, my new pump, some paint, and most of my electrical system parts.

    Sean



    Empty Kawasaki Fuse Holder


    Side View


    Under the hood


    Room for a Spare Fuse


    Buttoned Up


    Oh great, now there are two of them...


    On certain sites, this would be considered lewd.


    Terminals, plugs, fuse holders, bung plugs.


    1/4" Barb Bulkhead Fittings and 1/4" check valve fuel pickups. One extra of each.


    By far, the nicest bolts I have bought, also the most expensive. They are also longer than I needed...


    Documentation that came with the bolts


    Cool Thread ID business card thing.


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