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  1. #21
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Seal installed. Note the back of the seal is now flush with the back of the mounting plate.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	335989Click image for larger version. 

Name:	250 back of seal.jpg 
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ID:	335990

    Install the actuator arm and spring.

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  2. #22
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    I used a C clamp again to press the arm down so I could re-install the pin.

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Name:	010 C clamp to remove pin.jpg 
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Name:	009 Apply c clamp to remove spring pressure.jpg 
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    Install the O-ring, attach the motor leads paying close attention to the correct polarity. (not sure if the connections in the photo are accurate). Install install the cover with the 5 screws and loctite.

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Name:	005 ensure gasket is intact.jpg 
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Name:	003 remove motor leads.jpg 
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Name:	001 remove 5 screw.jpg 
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    Rebuild Complete!!!

    The arm on the rebuilt motor appears to move at the same speed as the OEM. This rebuilt motor is going to be installed in a project ski that hasn't yet started, so I can not yet confirm sync with the MFD, but it sure looks close!
    Last edited by BlueFishCrisis; 07-16-2014 at 10:01 AM.

  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Very well done thread!

  4. #24
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    And for those keeping track, the maximum draw of the rebuilt motor when it hits the end stops does not exceed 500 mA. The locked up motor in the ski was drawing just over 3A, which caused the fuse to blow.....

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    And for those keeping track, the maximum draw of the rebuilt motor when it hits the end stops does not exceed 500 mA. The locked up motor in the ski was drawing just over 3A, which caused the fuse to blow.....
    I'm surprised my fuse wasn't blown because like I said, I had to put the gear end in the vice and turn the motor housing back and forth a little at a time and it broke loose, I was just curious really, I was planning on buying a replacement but it works great so it's good to go.

  6. #26
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waterdog1971 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    And for those keeping track, the maximum draw of the rebuilt motor when it hits the end stops does not exceed 500 mA. The locked up motor in the ski was drawing just over 3A, which caused the fuse to blow.....
    I'm surprised my fuse wasn't blown because like I said, I had to put the gear end in the vice and turn the motor housing back and forth a little at a time and it broke loose, I was just curious really, I was planning on buying a replacement but it works great so it's good to go.
    If it's out, it might be worth while to spend the $15 bucks and replace the seal and motor..... I'll be at least replacing the shaft seal on every one I pull from now on...... If the motor is corroded, water is getting in. I might even toss a dessicant pack in with the motor....

  7. #27
    waterdog1971's Avatar
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    That's a good point but I've already got it back in there now so I'll go ahead and get the motor and seal ordered and have it on hand for when it does finally go, thanks for posting the links for the motor and seal too.

  8. #28
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Also note the collar on the output shaft.

    Attachment 335739


    With all parts removed, you can see the two screws securing the motor. If the motor is seized, remove these two screws.

    Attachment 335740Attachment 335741Attachment 335742Attachment 335743

    Mabuchi RS-555SH is no longer available. I have ordered a Mabuchi RS-555PH as a replacement.

    This completes disassembly.

    Nice......$3.25 for a replacement motor!!!!

  9. #29
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    A lot of effort went into preparing and documenting the rebuild process. Nicely done, all around!

    Polaris called all their electric trim systems Quick Trim. The gearbox documented here is a regular speed trim system, which Polaris labels as a 3 RPM unit in the parts cross reference.

    The 'fast' trim gearboxes run at roughly double the speed of the regular speed trim. Polaris labels these as 6 RPM trim motors.

    I think somebody pulled one apart a while back and posted photos of the internals.

    Perhaps some day day a similar thread can be done for the fast trim motors. The Pro and SLX owners would be appreciative, I hope.

  10. #30
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    I think the only difference between the two motors is in the gearbox itself. Probably a slightly different arrangement of gears to double the output speed.

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