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  1. #11
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    Right now it either sits crooked or on the chine.
    Ive got to move the brackets wider.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    i was thinking wider but in the same oval slots on the riser bracket.

  2. #12
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Method for adjusting trailer bunks with the hull on the trailer

    Quote Originally Posted by RaiderMagic View Post
    Right now it either sits crooked or on the chine.
    I've got to move the brackets wider.
    ...
    i was thinking wider but in the same oval slots on the riser bracket.
    How far back is the hull hanging off the back of the bunks? The angle on the rear tie down strap looks really shallow, perhaps the hull is too far back.

    Method for adjusting the bunks.
    I have used this method myself when tweaking bunk locations. Much easier than floating the hull off and on multiple times or even transferring back and forth to a shop cart between bunk adjustments.

    Move the trailer to a flat level location.
    For added stability you can connect the trailer to the tow vehicle and secure the coupler.

    Set the bow roller to be right up under the rub rail at the nose. Bow roller and winch tower must be tightly bolted in position. Be sure the bow eye winch strap runs under the bow roller and is snugly holding the bow forward against the bow roller. My Triton has a guide roller for the strap, located behind/below the bow roller.

    Remove the hold down straps from the rear of the hull.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Position a hydraulic car jack underneath the ride plate. Put a piece of 2x4 or 4x4 between the ride plate and the jack lift pad. Make sure the jack is right under the center line of the ride plate and the wood is spreading the load across the entire width of the ride plate.

    Now you can gently lift the hull up off the bunks. The hull weight will be supported by the bow roller and the car jack.

    Do NOT put your fingers between the bunks and the hull, in case the hull unexpectedly drops down.

    Loosen the bunk attachment bolts as needed. Now you can shift the bunks as needed to align with the hull and sit beside the chine ridges. Work at one corner at a time.

    Lower the car jack slowly to check that you have the bunk spacing correct. Also use a tape measure to confirm that each bunk has the same distance to the outside trailer frame rails. This ensures that the hull will be centered on the trailer when sitting on the bunks.

    For most hulls the bunks will be parallel and straight front to back, not tapered in towards the front. If the bunks must be angled together at the front end to fit your hull, they may need further adjusting if you later move the winch tower forward to increase tongue weight and reduce hull rear overhang.
    Last edited by K447; 02-05-2015 at 02:45 PM.


  3. #13
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    Yeah. It's pushed back pretty far. Tongue wt is prob less than 8o# right now. I have it pushed back about 6" more than usual cause I just winterized it. Easier to manuver around and can tilt up/rest on rear end for drainage etc.
    After my honey-do list today I might try to re adjust.
    Thx for all the tips.

  4. #14
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]I can adjust the height via the bracket riser slots. Current the slot opening rests on thru bolt. This supports the wt better than just squeeze bolting.
    Also, I can only adjust bunk/bracket width by pre determined cross beam holes.
    I was thinking the next slr wider on was side( about 2.5" per side) would be enough to equally lower the ski and get bunks about chimes. But that will likely make keel contact when winching.
    Raising the riser bracket will solve this but then the brackets would only be bolted together supporting the weight. I know the dimples should keep it from dropping. It's just a heavy ski.

  5. #15
    try taking the top bolts out on each vertical bracket and let the weight drop on the lower bolts. It looks like the top bolt would line up with the upper vertical slot. You should get an inch or two just from that.

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaiderMagic View Post
    ... I can only adjust bunk/bracket width by pre determined cross beam holes.

    ... Raising the riser bracket will solve this but then the brackets would only be bolted together supporting the weight. I know the dimples should keep it from dropping...
    You may be able to angle the brackets and have the slots span from the lower hole to the upper hole in the next set farther in or out.

    Or you can drill new holes in the cross beams for the brackets. The Triton trailer frame is all aluminum so no corrosion worries from adding more holes.

    If the keel ends up close to the cross frame top edge, consider adding a keel roller to the frame, just high enough to hold the keel away from the frame metal but not so high it interferes with the way the hull rests on the bunks.

    Trailer parts suppliers sell all sorts of brackets, rollers, and guards.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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