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  1. #21
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Yes it does, Its a pressurized system, its low pressure based on the hose but you do get water there. That area isnt just dry when you flush. The casting on the header is hollow all the way to the tip so water gets down there first thing when you turn the hose on.

    Sean

  2. #22
    Seems to me this thread would be better served in the Open Discussion area. I don't think this is a "performance" topic . . . ???

    But as long as I'm here, I had a 2008 15F for many years. I did not have any issues with flushing the Ski after salt water rides. JB

  3. #23
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john belton View Post
    Seems to me this thread would be better served in the Open Discussion area. I don't think this is a "performance" topic . . . ???

    But as long as I'm here, I had a 2008 15F for many years. I did not have any issues with flushing the Ski after salt water rides. JB
    Yes thats correct, ill move it later.

    Sean

  4. #24
    steve45's Avatar
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    Sorry for dredging up an old thread, but it was linked from something else I was reading.

    Anyway, it would seem to me that when you replace the exhaust system components with new parts that it would be wise to apply a corrosion preventive coating to the water passages. I'm not talking about paint, I'm talking about industrial coatings. The metal has to be clean, so I don't know if you could do it to a used manifold. (Perhaps you could try to clean it with muriatic acid or something). Anyway, when I get to the point of replacing parts, that's what I plan to do.

  5. #25

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    Back in the day, I used Jet Hot coatings on all my muscle car exhaust manifolds/headers. They would coat both internal and external surfaces. That stuff was awesome. Had a lifetime guarantee. I always wondered how that coating would perform on salt prone pwc cooling/exhaust components.


  6. #26

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    I've seen quite a few of these that were heavily corroded. Of course, proper maintenance is the key to making anything last. But I think the issue is that this exhaust system requires more than regular flushing or Salt Away.

    It seems to me that almost all of the corrosion starts from the outside, but under the blue rubber coupler. The corrosion is always on the outside of the stinger pipe that develops into holes, or near the compression rings, or on the outer flange on the waterbox. If the water flows only through the stinger and into the waterbox, these problems wouldn't occur and flushing would get rid of the salt. The problem is that some water gets pushed under the blue coupler, probably when the engine is revving high. When you flush at idle, there is much less pressure in the exhaust, so no fresh water is getting under the blue coupler. The salt gets trapped and stays there.

    The answer seems pretty simple. Regular maintenance should include removing the waterbox and cleaning the trapped salt.

    Another possible solution is the addition of some sort of gasket between the end of the stinger and the inside of the waterbox. A gasket that prevented any water from getting forced under the blue coupler would solve the problem.

    And yes, I have seen manifolds, stingers and waterboxes that were corroded in places other than under than the blue coupler. The ones I've seen were obviously due to neglect. If salt water sits in the hull, or salt is allowed to sit on these surfaces, the aluminum is bound to corrode. In these cases, the problem would have been avoided with an occasional fresh water rinse of the engine and compartment, and a little corrosion inhibitor sprayed on the motor and exhaust.

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