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  1. #21
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Swap the ignition coil primary connections, see if spark moves to the other spark plug. Engine will not run like this, just testing the coils.
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Is it possible that a slightly weak battery would cause only one of the plugs to produce spark?
    what results did you get from the previously described tests?
    Charged the battery and confirmed that it has around 11.6 volts even while cranking. I swapped the ignition coil primary connections and the spark moved to the other plug. I also have a spare ignition coil; swapped that in and the problem is exactly the same. What's my next step?


  2. #22
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Swap the Hall Effect sensor trigger connections to the CDI. Ignition coil should be connected normally.

    See if the problem moves to the other cylinder.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Swap the Hall Effect sensor trigger connections to the CDI. Ignition coil should be connected normally.

    See if the problem moves to the other cylinder.
    OK, I'll swap that next. I've read that the plug wires have to be matched to a certain cylinder... which plug wire goes to which cylinder?

  4. #24
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Um, the PTO plug wire goes to the PTO cylinder

    You are chasing a no spark on one cylinder problem, correct?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Um, the PTO plug wire goes to the PTO cylinder

    You are chasing a no spark on one cylinder problem, correct?
    I only get a spark out of one of the plugs. If I swap the ignition coil primary connections, the spark leaves the previously working plug and goes only to the other one.

    My next step is to swap the hall effect sensor trigger connections (green and red wires).

    Let me rephrase my previous question... does it matter which spark plug wire goes to which cylinder? I remember reading that it does unless you have the ignition update?

  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Um, the PTO plug wire goes to the PTO cylinder

    You are chasing a no spark on one cylinder problem, correct?
    I only get a spark out of one of the plugs. If I swap the ignition coil primary connections, the spark leaves the previously working plug and goes only to the other one.
    This means both sides of the ignition coil are working

    My next step is to swap the hall effect sensor trigger connections (green and red wires).
    This will tell you whether both ignition channels in the CDI are working.

    Let me rephrase my previous question... does it matter which spark plug wire goes to which cylinder? I remember reading that it does unless you have the ignition update?
    As I remember it, the original two cylinder non-updated red domestic engine ignitions were sequential. Each ignition coil only fires for its own cylinder. So the correct coil must be connected to the appropriate cylinder to actually run the engine.

    The updated Gen III ignition for the same engines uses the wasted spark method, where it does not matter which plug wire goes to which cylinder. But it does matter that both spark plugs be connected to the wires and grounded to the engine. Both plugs fire together, or neither plug fires.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Um, the PTO plug wire goes to the PTO cylinder

    You are chasing a no spark on one cylinder problem, correct?
    I only get a spark out of one of the plugs. If I swap the ignition coil primary connections, the spark leaves the previously working plug and goes only to the other one.
    This means both sides of the ignition coil are working

    My next step is to swap the hall effect sensor trigger connections (green and red wires).
    This will tell you whether both ignition channels in the CDI are working.

    Let me rephrase my previous question... does it matter which spark plug wire goes to which cylinder? I remember reading that it does unless you have the ignition update?
    As I remember it, the original two cylinder non-updated red domestic engine ignitions were sequential. Each ignition coil only fires for its own cylinder. So the correct coil must be connected to the appropriate cylinder to actually run the engine.

    The updated Gen III ignition for the same engines uses the wasted spark method, where it does not matter which plug wire goes to which cylinder. But it does matter that both spark plugs be connected to the wires and grounded to the engine. Both plugs fire together, or neither plug fires.
    Thanks for the great info so far. Once I can get both plugs to fire I will need to know which coil plug wire goes to which cylinder. A search of the service manual and any other documentation I have hasn't revealed the answer. Do you know how I can tell which wire goes to which cylinder?

  8. #28
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Um, the PTO plug wire goes to the PTO cylinder

    You are chasing a no spark on one cylinder problem, correct?
    I only get a spark out of one of the plugs. If I swap the ignition coil primary connections, the spark leaves the previously working plug and goes only to the other one.
    This means both sides of the ignition coil are working

    My next step is to swap the hall effect sensor trigger connections (green and red wires).
    This will tell you whether both ignition channels in the CDI are working.

    Let me rephrase my previous question... does it matter which spark plug wire goes to which cylinder? I remember reading that it does unless you have the ignition update?
    As I remember it, the original two cylinder non-updated red domestic engine ignitions were sequential. Each ignition coil only fires for its own cylinder. So the correct coil must be connected to the appropriate cylinder to actually run the engine.

    The updated Gen III ignition for the same engines uses the wasted spark method, where it does not matter which plug wire goes to which cylinder. But it does matter that both spark plugs be connected to the wires and grounded to the engine. Both plugs fire together, or neither plug fires.
    Thanks for the great info so far. Once I can get both plugs to fire I will need to know which coil plug wire goes to which cylinder. A search of the service manual and any other documentation I have hasn't revealed the answer. Do you know how I can tell which wire goes to which cylinder?
    Well, the simple method is if it will not start with the plug wires connected, you just swap them and it should then start

    The correct method is to check which primary wire color is assigned to the MAG ignition coil, then make sure the matching secondary wire goes to the MAG spark plug.

    The wiring diagram in the back of the service manual (Genuine Polaris service manual) should have the ignition coil wire colors identified.

    Edit: Looking at the posted wiring diagram, Yellow/Brown would be the MAG cylinder ignition coil primary wire, Gen I and Gen II domestic ignitions
    Last edited by K447; 09-25-2013 at 03:59 PM.

  9. #29
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    Attached is the wiring diagram I have for the '97 Polaris SLT700.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #30
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    Will swap green/red hall effect sensor wires later today and see if the spark moves to the other plug.

    When I'm testing the spark plugs, I have both of them unscrewed from the cylinder head. I don't have to have one installed while testing the other, correct?

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