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  1. #11
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    I am eventually going to buy an EverStart AGM battery
    These are also NON-SEALED where you must add the acid to the cells to energize. The Battery BryanP mentioned is not only a better price, but a fully sealed, pre-charged, ready to go tru AGM battery. Get one and never look back!!!! http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=350080_0_0_
    I just gave one to my friend for a birthday present. He is a good friend, and I am sick of having to deal with his ski never wanting to start!!!!


  2. #12
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt h View Post
    Noticed you said your a new member to greenhulk. I joined today and I can't find out how to start my own thread just wondering if you have to be a member for a certain time ?????
    Click on the forum button, then on one of the specific Polaris Forums to post a new thread. You can't do it from the "What's New" section.

    And Welcome!!
    Click here

    Welcome

  3. #13
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    I am eventually going to buy an EverStart AGM battery
    These are also NON-SEALED where you must add the acid to the cells to energize. The Battery BryanP mentioned is not only a better price, but a fully sealed, pre-charged, ready to go tru AGM battery. Get one and never look back!!!! http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=350080_0_0_
    I just gave one to my friend for a birthday present. He is a good friend, and I am sick of having to deal with his ski never wanting to start!!!!
    A self-serving present. Two birds with one stone... Nice!

  4. #14
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    These are the ones I have. Photo of compression tester:

    http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16171

  5. #15
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Picked up a compression tester from AutoZone yesterday. I'm getting about ~118/115 psi from the cylinders. AutoZone did not have a spark plug tester other than the basic one which just shows you spark - something I can just visually check.

    I did notice something else... I installed the replacement piston in backwards. I had read somewhere online that the arrow was supposed to point towards the intake, but yesterday read somewhere else that it is supposed to point in the direction of the flow, so towards the exhaust. The other piston (which I haven't touched) is pointing towards the exhaust. I verified via the service manual that the arrow indeed needs to point towards the exhaust. So, I need to fix that.

    I also did some further spark plug testing yesterday. I found a spare CDI and hooked it up... both will not produce spark from the same side/wire. I swapped the spark plugs and boots to make sure that wasn't the problem. Could something be causing both modules to not produce a spark on the same side, or is it really just a coincidence? This sounds like a weird question, but would the backwards-installed piston cause a lack of spark on one side of the ignition?

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Swap the ignition coil primary connections, see if spark moves to the other spark plug. Engine will not run like this, just testing the coils.

    If problem does NOT move, swap the Hall Effect sensor connections to the CDI. See if the problem now moves to the other cylinder.

  7. #17
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Swap the ignition coil primary connections, see if spark moves to the other spark plug. Engine will not run like this, just testing the coils.

    If problem does NOT move, swap the Hall Effect sensor connections to the CDI. See if the problem now moves to the other cylinder.
    Here are pictures of my wiring/ignition:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Could you clarify more on which connections to swap? Which wires on the ignition coil are the primary connections? Which wires are the hall effect sensor connections to the CDI? Thanks for the help so far!

  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Swap the ignition coil primary connections, see if spark moves to the other spark plug. Engine will not run like this, just testing the coils.

    If problem does NOT move, swap the Hall Effect sensor connections to the CDI. See if the problem now moves to the other cylinder.
    Here are pictures of my wiring/ignition:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3506.jpg 
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Size:	92.0 KB 
ID:	312584Click image for larger version. 

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Size:	104.9 KB 
ID:	312585Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	312586

    Could you clarify more on which connections to swap? Which wires on the ignition coil are the primary connections? Which wires are the hall effect sensor connections to the CDI? Thanks for the help so far!
    Ignition coil primary wires (for the original, non-updated domestic two cylinder ignition) are Black/Green and Yellow/Brown.

    Hall Effect sensor trigger wires are Green and Red.

    All these wires have bullet type in-line connections, none are plugged into the terminal board.

  9. #19
    GoodWComputers's Avatar
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    Is it possible that a slightly weak battery would cause only one of the plugs to produce spark?

  10. #20
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodWComputers View Post
    Is it possible that a slightly weak battery would cause only one of the plugs to produce spark?
    what results did you get from the previously described tests?

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