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  1. #21

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Just a word of caution guys: The 3M 5200 is an exceptionally strong adhesive and is sometimes used as a permenant seal. It is very difficult to remove once applied. The 3M 4200 is more of a semipermenant adhesive that is more than enough to take care of your sealing requirements yet is much easier to deal with should you ever have to remove your shoe.

    As stated, the pump plug kit makes it very easy to fill the cavities of the shoe, but it is pricey. Using the 4200 to fill the cavities is much cheaper.

    The mateing surface between the shoe and the hull and where the ride plate butt up against the shoe is by far the most important place to seal. Yamaha placed a cheesey stock "seal" there, but it typically blows out after a couple of years, and cavitation magnifies. Using the sealant there makes most of your cavitation go away. A good seal job cannot make up for a bad impeller, wear ring, or a broken intake, but it is the first step in makeing your cavitation issues disappear.


  2. #22

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Canyon Lake, TX
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    For you guys that dont trust the 4200 and are afraid the 5200 is to strong, you can purchase sonolastic np1 at home depot. Its peel strength is like 350-400 so right in between the 42 and 52. It is polyurethane and can withstand continuous submersion. Its what I will be using if I have to redo anything.. I went the cheap route and bought some loctite polyurethane, then later read it is not for submersion -.- good luck, cavitation sucks.

  3. #23
    I know this is an old thread, but need to know some of the same info. Have a stock 01 XLT 1200 just had new impeller installed along with host of other items and ran great for about 2 days then cavitation started. Called SBT and they said seal it..Boat guy said he could do it real quick and ran fine for another day and half then same issue. So finally taking into my own hands, took off Plate, intake and duct to get the Seal Kit and end this...well seal kit is on back order and local advisors are just saying seal it yourself and it will be fine...question is...After spending a day cleaning off all the old crap that didnt work, where do I seal to make it last and what can I seal it with? Also trying to not make disassembly a nightmare when/if the kit arrives.. Thanks Attached photos to help you-help me!!
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  4. #24
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    Rest assured, the 4200 is more than adequate to seal the shoe. 5200 is way too aggressive. These are parts that you will probably have to remove at some later point. I would also suggest checking your hull for leaks and resealing the transom plate if it leaks. Had a couple of XLT's,they are great machines. Loved mine, they were actually the wife's rides, she loved them. Top speed is about 60. To leak check just turn it up on its rear and fill the hull up to the intermediate shaft bearing. Any leaks mean it will fill with water if you leave it in the water for any extended period. Just saw that delrin wear ring....that thing won't last. If you run your ski up on the bank and suck sand through that thing is trashed. I'd find an OEM wear ring at the first opportunity. I tried one of them on one of my XLT's, when it blew out it almost left me stranded.

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