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  1. #1
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Long Island, NY

    About Superchargers: Inherent Flaws and Preventing Failure with Metal Washers

    About Superchargers: Inherent Flaws and Preventing Failure with Metal Washers

    From 2004 to the present day, every single supercharged Seadoo watercraft comes from the factory with a wet clutch design consisting of ceramic washers and steel ball bearings. For years now, we have seen time and time again these components weaken and cause catastrophic failure to our motors that would otherwise have been extremely reliable. While Seadoo has yet to change the design sadly, and while we continue to complain about its design, there are a few things you can do to ensure that your precious ride time in the summer is preserved.

    If your machine is under warranty, of course the failure is covered, BUT… it’s a very precise process and it’s been many peoples’ experience that dealers are not properly repairing the machines. In addition, sometimes parts are on back order and you can be looking at weeks and months of downtime while your machine is repaired. You make the choice, is it worth waiting for it to blow up so you can HOPE it gets fixed properly and quickly?

    Your machine lost top speed and acceleration
    Your machine is sluggish and only reaches about 45 mph and 6500-7000 rpms
    In rough water, you feel the machine surging and lunging like power is engaging and disengaging
    At WOT (Wide Open Throttle) your RPMs don’t hold steady, they tend to drop a few hundred rpms from what they are normally.

    Your supercharger can be slipping slip causing a drop in boost pressure and performance… This is the best case scenario as you caught it before it released the clutch pieces into the engine.

    You supercharger can let go whether it be a bearing failure or a ceramic washer failure. In this case, the parts list ALONE can be close to $2000 dollars. When these components fail, the ceramic pieces go through the motor and destroy your oil pumps, covers, you need a new rebuild kit, and in some cases your SC impeller gets destroyed as well as the housing. In addition, the motor needs to be removed to find all the pieces and properly clean out the oil passages and screens.

    If your motor is not properly repaired or cleaned out, you will slowly starve the motor’s internals of oil and risk throwing a rod through the side of your engine which is a disastrous repair bill.

    2003 GTX SC – Only prone to supercharger slippage (ceramics not present in this design)
    2004 RXP / GTX SC
    2005 RXP / RXT / GTX SC / GTX Limited
    2006 RXP / RXT / GTX SC / GTX Limited
    2007 RXP / RXT / 215 Wake / GTX Limited

    All of the above models, REGARDLESS of your level of modifications (stock or highly modified) will benefit from these upgrades… Also, regardless of the current state of your warranty, this is all still recommended. The decision is up to you, is the cost of upgrades worth saving your ride time in the season and preventing failure.


    ****** I ALWAYS ALWAYS recommend having an extended warranty on your machine. Check with your local dealer and see how they feel about aftermarket modifications and their effect on your warranty. Certain components do not jeopardize reliability and should be no problem. In fact, many of the parts and modifications we perform are in an effort to solve the inherent problems of the 185 and 215 horsepower powerplants.

    METAL SUPERCHARGER WASHERS! It does not matter if you have a used machine with 5 hours or 250 hours or a brand new machine with zero hours just home from the dealer. They are ALL susceptible to failure with ceramic washers. There are slightly different metal washers depending on the year of your machine. If you have a low hour 2004-2005 machine you can add these: cts_id=448

    However, in 2006 Seadoo introduced a slightly more heavy duty supercharger assembly, but still with the same concept and flaws. Therefore, if you have a high hour 2004-2005 machine, it is recommended to rebuild the whole supercharger with new components that are not worn so you have new bearings as well.

    ***NOTE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN KITS depending on your motor***

    215HP Rebuild kit

    185HP Rebuild kit

    If you have a 2006+ machine, you already have the most up-to-date supercharger assembly. In which case, all you need is to swap in the metal washers for your stock ceramic ones:



    I'll be sure to edit this thread and try and keep it as up to date as possible. These are the basics that I was able to put together off the top of my head. I think it would be helpful to forum members and newbies that we put all the supercharger metal washer and bearing information here so we can continue building up info to cover all the aspects of this component of the 4-tec power plant.

    So if you have a particular questions about how this applies to your application, or any other related questions, feel free to post right here in this thread!

    New Information coming next season for 2008 Supercharged 4-tec Models.
    Last edited by Shibby1485; 10-14-2007 at 11:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Morgan City, LA
    Excellent post

    Thank you very much for taking the time to put that together!

  3. #3
    Flynfox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Sunny SC

    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the info Shibby; very informative.

  4. #4
    vidbuster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Suburban Wasteland, CA
    Fantastic Job! A great summary broken down on what I need to do before summer- nice job!

    I noticed the Riva Supercharger Washers are another $30 bucks more, are they the same or should I stick to what you had in your link?

    2006 RXP 25 hours
    Stage I in Spring


  5. #5
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Long Island, NY
    Quote Originally Posted by vidbuster View Post
    I noticed the Riva Supercharger Washers are another $30 bucks more, are they the same or should I stick to what you had in your link?
    The understanding or concensus (spelling?) has been that the metal washers I linked are precision machined and then go thru a special hardening process, whereas the Riva washers are the same thing, except they go through a titaniam coating process.

    It's been the experience of some people that the coated washers tend to glaze over and slip. Slipping is fine with metal washers, but you lose a little bit of performace when they slip. How to stop it from slipping? You need to add a very miniscule shim to increase the tension on the clutch pack.

    the UNCOATED washers seem to be less susceptible to slipping.

  6. #6
    Moderator The Bandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Wilmette, IL
    Nicely done Steve.

  7. #7
    Dr Len's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    New Jersey Attitude Capital of the World
    Good info Shib Vman and I just did a complete rebuild of my SC with Jerry's washers and ceramic bearings

  8. #8

    Join Date
    May 2005
    henderson, nv
    Great info Shibby. This tread is perfect timing for me since I just removed my supercharger from my 04 RXP to make these upgrades. Now I can't decide which way to go. I'm thinking about just adding the metal washers with the ceramic bearings. Since the metal washers are different for the 04 models will the ceramic bearings fit on the 04 supercharger? My ski is stock right now but I'm now in the process of making my first mods. Thanks, Jim

  9. #9
    great post shibby

  10. #10
    RustySeaRustyDoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Chesapeake Bay-Pasadena, MD
    Steve great post! I knew it took some time, but this shows how IMPORTANTthis subject is.

    I was a victim, and encourage EVERYONE to follow his advice right away!

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