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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    If it was upside down for 20 minutes, and now it doesn't work, it's got water inside. It may be too late to save it. If drying it doesn't help, you might try putting some isopropyl alcohol in it, then drying it again. The alcohol absorbs water, but it usually contains water, too. I've been successful, and I've failed. It's really a crap shoot.
    It's actually working fine right now. It had a momentarily blip where it wasn't working. I'm just worried that momentary blip will become permanent if I don't fix it. Are you sure there is a plug on the back oft it? Sounds like you've had them apart before. Thanks again!!

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by sortsol View Post
    It's actually working fine right now. It had a momentarily blip where it wasn't working. I'm just worried that momentary blip will become permanent if I don't fix it. Are you sure there is a plug on the back oft it? Sounds like you've had them apart before. Thanks again!!

    Also, would you be able to see water droplets inside the display if there was water in it? So, I guess the final 2 things I'm interested in knowing before I spend a day tearing into my jet ski trying to get at the display. The display is working perfectly right now, but it could just be that's it's a ticking timebomb waiting to go out. I've had a couple of little blips that make me think water might have gotten in there.

    1. Is there a plug on the back of these displays. I've seen pictures of them, but can't see anything that looks like a plug to me... I'm not always smart though so I may just be missing something.

    2. If there would be any obvious signs of water intrusion (water droplets on the inside of the display, etc...)

    Thanks again for the help!

    Mike

  3. #23

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    I am on my second display. These things are just a terrible design. The second one I even sealed up real good where the wires go thru. Getting the connectors to where it goes though a bulkhead is really fun. Now I know what women must go through.

  4. #24
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    Both of my STXs and my running Ultra are on their 2nd displays. The Ultra got water in it once and I dried it out, didn't seal it. Got water in it again and I couldn't get it working, so I cut it open and was able to fix it. However, my glue job on the case wasn't strong enough to hold it against the pull of the mounting bracket and it got water in it a 3rd time when I flipped it. Finally bought a good used display.

    One STX came with a non-working display, one actually works, but it's so black from sun exposure you can't read it, so I changed both of them.

    In answer to your question, no, you normally don't see droplets inside the display. Water gets on the contacts where the wires are soldered to the circuit board and goes to work causing corrosion. There is no protective coating on the circuit board. When power is applied, the rate of corrosion formation escalates.

    The plug is not an electrical connector, it's just a round rubber seal that has a dozen or so wires going through it.

    If it were mine, I'd pull it apart, remove the plug, dry it, put on circuit board sealer, put 3M 5200 Fast Cure on the plug, replace the plug, put 3M 5200 on the wires coming out of the plug, then put it back together. But, that's just me. A USED display is $300, a new one is over $800. Your choice.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Both of my STXs and my running Ultra are on their 2nd displays. The Ultra got water in it once and I dried it out, didn't seal it. Got water in it again and I couldn't get it working, so I cut it open and was able to fix it. However, my glue job on the case wasn't strong enough to hold it against the pull of the mounting bracket and it got water in it a 3rd time when I flipped it. Finally bought a good used display.

    One STX came with a non-working display, one actually works, but it's so black from sun exposure you can't read it, so I changed both of them.

    In answer to your question, no, you normally don't see droplets inside the display. Water gets on the contacts where the wires are soldered to the circuit board and goes to work causing corrosion. There is no protective coating on the circuit board. When power is applied, the rate of corrosion formation escalates.

    The plug is not an electrical connector, it's just a round rubber seal that has a dozen or so wires going through it.

    If it were mine, I'd pull it apart, remove the plug, dry it, put on circuit board sealer, put 3M 5200 Fast Cure on the plug, replace the plug, put 3M 5200 on the wires coming out of the plug, then put it back together. But, that's just me. A USED display is $300, a new one is over $800. Your choice.
    Cool. Thanks! I didn't realize the rubber plug came out. I'll give that a try tonight hopefully. I appreciate all the help. Hopefully it's not too late!!

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by sortsol View Post
    Cool. Thanks! I didn't realize the rubber plug came out. I'll give that a try tonight hopefully. I appreciate all the help. Hopefully it's not too late!!
    One more quick question if it's not too much to ask. My display doesn't light up when I turn the key on now (the orange thing you have to turn before you stick the lanyard in and press the start button). It will turn on when I press the power button and the display works fine, but the key doesn't seem to be turning the display on and off like it used to. Do you think that's a short in my display or my key is also going bad?

    Thanks!

    Mike

  7. #27

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    Ok, so I got it all apart and pulled the plug and a bunch of water came out. Question though. Once it's dry, can I just plug in the connections to test it or do I have to install it again? Is there a ground somewhere that needs to make a connection? If I have to buy a new meter, I really don't want to go through all the hassle of putting it back together.

    Thanks!

    Mike

  8. #28
    steve45's Avatar
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    Don't know about the key not turning on the display. With water coming out, make sure to reach in there with a stiff bristle brush (they make them for cleaning electronic parts) and scrap off any corrosion you may see on the circuit board where the wires are soldered on. Corrosion will bridge the gap between the wires and short everything out. Don't get too rough with it. Circuit board sealer (Conformal Coating) is the best thing to use, but for doing just one small strip of terminals, I'd just give it a couple of coats of clean nail polish.

    There are no other grounds, just the 3 or 4 plugs on the ends of the wires. Test it before installing and you're golden.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Don't know about the key not turning on the display. With water coming out, make sure to reach in there with a stiff bristle brush (they make them for cleaning electronic parts) and scrap off any corrosion you may see on the circuit board where the wires are soldered on. Corrosion will bridge the gap between the wires and short everything out. Don't get too rough with it. Circuit board sealer (Conformal Coating) is the best thing to use, but for doing just one small strip of terminals, I'd just give it a couple of coats of clean nail polish.

    There are no other grounds, just the 3 or 4 plugs on the ends of the wires. Test it before installing and you're golden.

    Thanks Steve. You've been extremely helpful!! I'll let it all dry out and see how it does!

  10. #30
    I need some advise on my 15f. The gauge is toast, it had water in it but I ignored it. It kept going into SLO mode and it stopped charging so if I were to ride and turn it off, that was it. I removed it and attempted to dry it out and after over a week it looks dry. Hooked it up loosely and nothing. So I either need a used one or some info from people who have worked one. I checked the classifieds and didn't see any. I was also going to see if maybe anyone wants this one to mess with. I hate it because it has around 70 hours on it and it's an 06 ski. Thanks for any help. I also have a GP1200R gauge laying around.


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