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  1. #121
    Sevin,
    I have read every article possible including all of yours of course. 2009 15F. Pulled every water line and verified they are completely clear and free including cooling log. I drilled the front small diameter nipple out a little bit on the front of the water box and i'm hoping that allows more hot water to escape easier. I also pulled the oil cooler off and made sure both sides are crystal clean. Replaced oil cooler sensor and exhaust temperature sensor but not the oil pan sensor yet.

    Question about my HEAT condition after about 12 minutes of running on the water...
    Your instructions here talk about the cooling passages on the back of the motor on the PTO cover inlets. When I blow through them they very much appear clear but there could be some corrosion in there that air just does not clearly show a blockage or restriction. If this area was partially blocked do you suspect it's enough of an area to cause an overheat condition downline on one of the sensors?

  2. #122
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macGruber View Post
    Sevin,
    I have read every article possible including all of yours of course. 2009 15F. Pulled every water line and verified they are completely clear and free including cooling log. I drilled the front small diameter nipple out a little bit on the front of the water box and i'm hoping that allows more hot water to escape easier. I also pulled the oil cooler off and made sure both sides are crystal clean. Replaced oil cooler sensor and exhaust temperature sensor but not the oil pan sensor yet.

    Question about my HEAT condition after about 12 minutes of running on the water...
    Your instructions here talk about the cooling passages on the back of the motor on the PTO cover inlets. When I blow through them they very much appear clear but there could be some corrosion in there that air just does not clearly show a blockage or restriction. If this area was partially blocked do you suspect it's enough of an area to cause an overheat condition downline on one of the sensors?
    Have you pull the exhaust manifold off and checked the passages there? HEAT code means the exhaust temp is over temp, OILT is the one in the pan.

    Sean

  3. #123
    No, i have not but now I certainly will. Thank you for the lead and clarification on what the HEAT is about. I have a spare pipe set so I will inspect and strap it on to see if that works. 3 questions on your writeup here.
    1. What is the BEST thing out of your given options to fill the void at the sensor with. Straight oil or one of the other recommendations?

    2. What size hole have you found to be okay to drill out the pin hole on the water box nipple to? The one just behind the coupler. I assume it could be bad to drill it too big?

    3. You mentioned zip tying the sensor wire away from anything hot. Is that just to prevent the wire coating from melting or do u feel it can pickup false HOT readings from the heat on the wire itself? Mine may have been laying on the hot pipe during my tests previously.

  4. #124
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Replying inline in RED

    Sean


    Quote Originally Posted by macGruber View Post
    No, i have not but now I certainly will. Thank you for the lead and clarification on what the HEAT is about. I have a spare pipe set so I will inspect and strap it on to see if that works. 3 questions on your writeup here.
    1. What is the BEST thing out of your given options to fill the void at the sensor with. Straight oil or one of the other recommendations?
    I typically use dielectric grease because it is silicone which I think it what OE spec is but mostly because you can do it with the pipe on the motor. Don't over fill though, a little dab will do.

    2. What size hole have you found to be okay to drill out the pin hole on the water box nipple to? The one just behind the coupler. I assume it could be bad to drill it too big?
    I have not had to modify that setup. The older 12f and 15fs used the same inlet and outlet size as all the other couplers.

    3. You mentioned zip tying the sensor wire away from anything hot. Is that just to prevent the wire coating from melting or do u feel it can pickup false HOT readings from the heat on the wire itself? Mine may have been laying on the hot pipe during my tests previously.
    Heat on the wire doesn't impact the readings, mostly it's just good practice to not let it rest on hot stuff. The OE sleeve material is some kind of silicone covering if my memory is correct which has a really high temp rating.

  5. #125
    Thanks Sean. I ran it again today. 9 minutes strapped to trailer (3 min idle, 2 min 4krpm, 2 min 5k rpm, 2 min 6k rpm. Got too confident so I launched it. Ran really well at 3/4 to WOT for about 5 or 6 minutes so i dropped slowly to idle and was getting my gps turned on to do a Relive ride video and while at idle for about 1 min she went into HEAT alarm. SUPER hard cranking after that...barely turning over. Dumped about 6 bottles of 80 degree lake water slowly on the exhaust sensor and manifold around the sensor and it cranked better and better with each bottle of water added till finally it caught. I just idled her back 1/4 mile back to shore and after about 5 minutes right by shore it HEAT alarmed again. I did notice that at idle, the pisser was quite intermittent. Im idling about 1200 to 1300rpm. Water comes out for about 4 seconds, then none for 4 seconds (just exhaust or steam) then back to water, rinse and repeat. I feel like this thing is just not getting enough cooling water up into the top end of the exhaust manifold causing it to pbysically overheat. Trying to touch the intake manifold, head cover or the exhaust manifold after the overheat alarm you didnt dare hold your hand on it for more than 1/2 to 1 second. She was definitely hot. Even the intake manifold which i thought was strange.

    IF that PTO cover is partially clogged (but enough to allow air to blow through, does that restrict flow into the ehaust side quite a bit? I'm gonna pull both of the cooling lines off, fill that qrea with white vinegar tonight, let it sit for 24 hours and see what kind of junk comes out. Maybe it is open enough inside there to blow through but not for proper flow afterall? If nothing comes out then ill pull that exhaust pipe next to inspect.

  6. #126
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Check the cooling routing. If you have any blockage it is a problem.



    Sean
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  7. #127
    Pretty sure you nailed it Sean! I mean, without being able to put it on the water at 1:00 in the morning right now I know you figured it out on your previous reply. I pulled the exhaust manifold a few minutes ago and tried to fill it up with water after closing up all of the water nipples with a loop. Water was running straight out the end of the exhaust where the blue coupler mounts to. That last section with the two piston rings on it is corroded through into the inside diameter about 3 in down from the manifold to pipe gasket. I've got zero dealt that is where the water is migrating out of very rapidly especially under pressure and therefore adequate cooling water is never going to be able to make it up into the upper exhaust manifold or into the cylinders. I'll be strapping this back together with a super clean fresh water manifold and pipe tonight and want to try to put it on the water again tomorrow to verify but i'm sure you got it! Well done and thank you all.

  8. #128

    fuel pressure question

    Sean, quick question about fuel pressure. I know the spec is 43psi on the rail, but would something around 30psi be too low to start/run at all? - thanks


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