1999 Polaris slth

[mikel1]

Hi Guys, Hopefully someone can help me, I have a 99 slth with the 700 red engine. I just took my ski out and it seemed like it was cutting in and out on 1 cylinder then it just quit completely. I checked and have no spark, I read here what to test and think I might have a bad stator. When I opened the electric box up I saw a Grey wire with a female spade end not connected, looks like it should go to the terminal board somewhere but there is no grey identifier on the board, from what I can tell this is for the RPM limiter. I don't know where it is supposed to go, it comes out of the CDI box part # 4010448. Here is what I have tested. I checked spark plug wires from inside the boot to ground, nothing. Then I took the plug wires off the coil and checked resistance the longer wire read 3.7k and the short plug wire read 2.6k my book says it should read 0 ohms. I then checked the coil with my multi meter red to inside coil stud to ground and got no reading. I then unplugged the brown wire from the CDI and checked voltage while turning engine over, the voltage started at about 7volts and climbed to about 8.9volts while cranking the engine over. also my coil pack is part# 4010175, I don't know if these are the newer style parts or not. I don't know where to go from here, I hope its not the stator as I don't want to pull the engine. Anyone have any ideas? Also just thought about this, I was using my machine in salt water, now I wont be able to flush it, I dont know if I can hook the hose up to is with out the engine running, dont think you can, damn. I wont be back down here for 3 months. Thanks Mike

[ghostinstallations]

The CDI is infact one of the updated ones. The grey wire w/ female spade is not used on that setup. Its for a limp mode that is not on that ski. When it is grounded, it rev-limits the engine. You should have about 8 volts on the brown wire while cranking - so that is good.

If i remember correclty, the plug boots are resistive and the book is telling you to read the resistance of the wire, not the wire and plug boot. I suggest re-reading the tests in detail.

From memory: Disconnect all the wires going to the CDI. Measure the resistance from the black CDI to:

Purple (5.5 ohms) If not, exciter is bad, replace stator
gray w/ bullet connector, not spade (open)
red (open)
green (open)
brown (open)

As for the coil and plug wire tests, I dont remember, ref the manual for a 00+ the origional manual for your 99' will be wrong.

-Brad

[mikel1]

thanks Brad, I will check those items.

[Mr. GP1800]

I would think you could replace a stator in that ski without pulling the motor. I have that same ski and I love it. Might be worth buying the whole update kit if you need a stator. Won't cost much more and you will have spare parts.

[Keddano]

There is plenty of room to do a stator with the motor in the ski.

[Mr. GP1800]

there is quite a bit of room to work on the 2 cylinder in that ski. The forward curved pipe is a pain to get in and out. Good luck with the diagnosis and keep us informed so we can help. I have that exact ski and rebuilt it from the ground up, so I can help with almost anything you may need on it.

[mikel1]

there is quite a bit of room to work on the 2 cylinder in that ski. The forward curved pipe is a pain to get in and out. Good luck with the diagnosis and keep us informed so we can help. I have that exact ski and rebuilt it from the ground up, so I can help with almost anything you may need on it.

LOL Bryan, I live in Racine, I also have a place in the Florida Keys, thats where my ski is. Small world. Thanks for the help. Mike

[casey67]

. Here is what I have tested. I checked spark plug wires from inside the boot to ground, nothing. Then I took the plug wires off the coil and checked resistance the longer wire read 3.7k and the short plug wire read 2.6k my book says it should read 0 ohms. I then checked the coil with my multi meter red to inside coil stud to ground and got no reading. I then unplugged the brown wire from the CDI and checked voltage while turning engine over, the voltage started at about 7volts and climbed to about 8.9volts while cranking the engine over. also my coil pack is part# 4010175, I don't know if these are the newer style parts or not. I don't know where to go from here, I hope its not the stator as I don't want to pull the engine. Anyone have any ideas? Also just thought about this, I was using my machine in salt water, now I wont be able to flush it, I dont know if I can hook the hose up to is with out the engine running, dont think you can, damn. I wont be back down here for 3 months. Thanks Mike

Yes ,that is the updated ignition. You should use a 2000 or newer service manual for ignition tests.
The original plug wires were solid core-the new plug wires are resister type (plug boots have no resistance) so that sounds correct.

The original coil had seperate windings per cylinder.
The new coil is sorta looped- you measure from one plug wire to the other plug wire. Should be aound 8000 ohms.

[mikel1]

Thanks Casey, I just measured from plug wire to plug wire, I put my ohm leads inside the spark plugs wires and got 8.38k, so does that mean that the CDI and coil pack and wires are good? and my stator is definitely the problem? Also my understanding is if I have the new style CDI and coil pack and wires I would also have to have the newer style stator as the old style would not work with new parts, If I do have the newer style stator I thought they were very reliable. I am stumped now. Any thing else to check. I am also really worried leaving the salt water in my engine for 3 months, as that will be the soonest I will be back down here, leaving Fri. Thanks.

[Mr. GP1800]

The only way to really test a CDI is to swap it out with a known good one. When I got my Pro 1200 I got voltage out of the brown wire on the CDI yet it was still bad. I think the previous owner might have cooked it by hooking up a battery charger.