MFD replacement for 2000 Pro 1200 (12-pin)

[fck55mph]

I have one from a 2000 pro 1200 that is dead. anyone know who can repair it?

My trim has been removed so can i use a different mfd?? thanks

[785 lugs]

I have one from a 2000 pro 1200 that is dead. anyone know who can repair it? My trim has been removed so can i use a different mfd?? thanks

does it light up at all ???

[fck55mph]

No, mine does not light up at all. Previous owner removed the trim system so I need to find out if I can use a different MFD. The one for the pro 1200 is a bitch to find!

[K447]

Welcome to the Hulk

Posts have been moved to a new thread for clarity.

You certainly can replace your 12-pin MFD with an 8-pin version.

Removal of the trim system does not affect the MFD wiring. You can use an MFD with or without trim display.

My signature links include a MFD section, and there is info there regarding changing the Deutsch connector shell from 12-pin to 8-pin. The individual wires with crimped contacts can simply be transferred to the 8-pin connector shell.

[fck55mph]

Does having one disconnected cause running issues? I just rebuilt my engine..runs great...not overheating or anything BUT if I disconnect the battery, it will run like a scalded dog for about 15 seconds then bam! rev limiter at maybe 3000RPM..anyone hear of this before? I am going to get a 8pin mfd and convert it like K447 said to but this is driving me nuts

[K447]

Why would you disconnect the battery?

[fck55mph]

I just disconnect it..wait a few seconds and reconnect it...sorry if there was any confusion. Just something I tried...and it seems to run great for about 15 seconds. I know you have that page about converting a 12 pin to an 8 pin but which mfd unit do I need to do that? any one of them that is the same shape or what? Thanks alot!!

[K447]

Any 8-pin MFD will electrically work.

The speedometer accuracy may be impaired, and you don't care about trim dsiplay, so any oval MFD should work for you.

[K447]

Lets review the engine problem.

MFD is disconnected/unplugged.

You disconnect the battery for a few seconds, then reconnect battery. Start engine, and have full power on the water for about 15 seconds. Then the engine loses power and stays like that until you shut it down and again remove battery power for a few seconds. Reconnect battery, start engine and have full power again.

Have I got this right?

My guess is that the CDI or LR module is bad.

Could be an ignition coil, but that seems unlikely.
Might be a Reset Button, but also seems unlikely.

Unplug the LR voltage regulator module (Yellow, Orange, Black, Red/Purple). Make sure the wire ends are taped so they don't short on anything. Test engine. You will have no battery charging, so will be running on battery power only.

[fck55mph]

Yes, that is correct. Once it does act up, I swear it sounds like its hitting a rev limiter. Per the manual, it said to remove the tan wire from the electrical box to test the rev limiter but when I do that, the engine dies. About two weeks ago when I bought this ski, it was doing the same thing but at a lower RPM ( i would say right above idle speed). Found low compression on middle cylinder and rebuilt entire motor. When I went to start it with the dead MFD in it, it did the same thing. As soon as I unplugged the MFD...boom! It revved up fine. Put it in the water...hauls ass for 15-20 seconds then "wap wap wap wap wap!" It hits that limiter at about half throttle. I can ride it fine but any more than half throttle and it bounces off the limiter. This is extremely annoying...i love this ski and want it going so I appreciate all the help