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Thread: Electrical Fuji

  1. #11
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    MFD Style 1&2





  2. #12
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Electrical Boxes with PRO CDI

    bd
    650 Box


    750Box


    Pro Box


    Pro CDI to 650/750/780 wiring directions.
    ph2ocraft
    I'm showing the working RPM's of the 97 PRO785 is 7500RPm and the limiter is set at 7800 RPM. It also has 32 degrees advance at 3,000 RPM so I think it's going to work VERY well with the triples on the 750 (I can't wait). We'll see if I'll run it on 92 or if I need a little VP110.

    The PRO wires up much easier than I initially thought and goes as follows.
    Blue/Red from CDI to Blue/Red from the stator
    Red/White from CDI to Red/White from the stator
    Green/Red from CDI to Green/White from Stator
    White/Yellow from CDI to White/Yellow from Stator
    Black/Yellow from CDI to Black/Yellow from Stop Switch
    Black to Battery Ground
    Black to Box Ground

    I then seperated the wires from the coil pack and wired with individual pig tails as follows.
    Black/Green from CDI to Black/White on PTO Coil
    Black/Orange from CDI to Black/White on Center Coil
    Black/White from CDI to Black/White on MAG Coil
    Black from CDI to Black from Coil Grounds.

    I capped off the following wires from the CDI as I have no use for the exhaust valve electrical signals
    White/Black
    White/Red
    Light Green
    Green
    Red/White

    The last couple of wires
    Tan from CDI to Tan from Temp sensor
    Red/Purple from CDI to Red/purple at LR23
    Yellow/Black from CDI to Yellow/Black from CDI (you read correctly)
    Last edited by ph2ocraft; 12-08-2006 at 02:41 AM.

  3. #13
    Its better to burn out than fade away christian79's Avatar
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    How I fixed my MFD

    [Update by K447] See this updated thread for further instructions as a complement to this original post.
    Thanks again Christian!

    First off I want to stress that this is what I did to correct my MFD issue and by no way is the only or best way to go about this. Also this not a simple matter of removing some screws. If you do not have a steady hand, you are better off allowing one of the talented MFD repairmen do it for you.

    That being said lets begin.......

    Step 1
    Collect all the tools you will need.
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    Step 2
    Install the cutting wheel on the Dremel.
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    Step 3
    Using a small flat bladed screw driver carefully pry the bezel away from the base retaining tabs.
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    Step 4
    Using the Dremel cut just below the clear plastic screen while being careful to leave some of the black plastic lip for reassembly.

    [Edit by K447 - A better/safer place to cut open the case is just behind the front lip, at the Green or Red arrow in this photo. Do not cut any deeper than necessary to just cut through the plastic thickness. There are fragile ribbon wires just inside the case, which you do not want to cut.
    See this updated thread for additional info]




    Step 5
    Use a flat piece of material like the back of a razor blade and carefully pry the two pieces apart. This is a time for finesse not strength. You may have to make several passes with the Dremel before you can get the pieces apart just be sure to save some of the plastic lip.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Step 6
    Once you separate the two pieces disconnect the two wiring harnesses from the PCB. Also save the white packet of Silica Gel for reassembly.
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    Step 7
    To remove the PCB you must disconnect the two front buttons as shown and remove all four screws.
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    Step 8
    Using a Q-tip and a liberal amount of electrical component cleaner clean the contacts on the PCB as shown.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Step 9
    Reverse Step 7 and pay special attention to tightening the four screws securely while remembering that they are set in plastic and if stripped will ruin the display. I would imagine that the two screws above the PCB and LCD connector come loose and cause intermittent contact resulting in a garbled LCD screen.


    Step 10
    Test out your MFD on you Ski. If it works great if not you should try to tighten the screws or send it out to the professionals. Also you may have to plug it in a few times as I had to.
    [Edit: Sometimes it just needs a firm press of a button to wake it up after power has been applied]



    Step 11
    If you did not save enough of the lip you can make a form for one out it Popsicle sticks and a paint stirrer as i have here.


    Step 12
    Once you have tapped over everything you do not want Epoxy on use a Popsicle stick with a liberal amount of Epoxy to fill the void created by the Dremel. Once the void has been filled use as clean stick to remove any access Epoxy.



    Step 13
    Allow the MFD to sit and the Epoxy to dry. Sit the unit face down to allow gravity to keep the two pieces together.


    Step 14
    After the Epoxy has hardened sand down the edge as need to allow the bezel to fit. Note the bezel may no longer stay in place and may need to be glued down with some kind of rubber cement. I would not use Epoxy or Super Glue as those products will make it impossible to remove the Bezel at a later date.


    THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP:
    Clean up your mess and never let the wife know you used her kitchen counter as a work bench.


    Enjoy
    Time: 2 hours
    Skill: Hobbyist
    Fun: Depend on your notion of fun
    Last edited by K447; 11-09-2013 at 01:15 AM.

  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    More MFD repair photos from Christian79
















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