modding 07 pump shaft info/ compared to 2011 parts.few questions 300x parts are in.

[98gsxl951]

ordered my 2011 pump, nut, bearing, bushing, etc 2 weeks back turns out the shaft, nut and bushing are on back order and there is no eta for arrival. everything else i am having mailed to me now, and the remainder of the parts will arrive when they do.

i want to just mod my 07 shaft, but given i cant get the nut i need a temporary alternative. can i use any SS nut basically?

also what needs to be machined on the shaft to work with the new bearings and nut.
if their is a right up i would love to see it, as of right now i have jsut read the basics of what need to be done.

---------- Post added at 03:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:31 PM ----------

alright so i am looking at teh 300x pump diagram, so it looks like the shaft is machined to fit the extra bearing. do i just machine it exactly to what the 2nd bearing length is? also can i machine my stock bushing to work?

[smokeysevin]

You take the measurement of the bearing then have them machine the shaft down for that measurement (18mm?) the nut is a standard thread 3/4-16 and you can use any nut you want.

Sean

[98gsxl951]

awesome thanks a bunch for clearing it up. going to machine my shaft and get the end threaded sometime this week. guess ill have the shaft, bushing, and nut for a spare, hell might as well order up another set of bearing and ill have everything.

any idea on the bushing? what needs to be done to make it work.

---------- Post added at 05:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:19 PM ----------

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=c28zz5 thin or normal nut?

[nicjak]

shit mate i already explained how to do it in your last thread, the bush/spacer is fine dont touch it.

[meangreenman]

ordered my 2011 pump, nut, bearing, bushing, etc 2 weeks back turns out the shaft, nut and bushing are on back order and there is no eta for arrival.

If I were you, I will just wait for the new parts and would not bother modding the existing old parts.

[Blue 182]

If I were you, I will just wait for the new parts and would not bother modding the existing old parts.

98gsxl is right, all parts backordered here too, no eta, any other non-factory source for these OEM parts? Otherwise, could be 2 weeks or 2 months...

[john belton]

If these new 2011 parts come from Japan it may be a while; there is still alot of disorganization over there from the Tidal Waves in March. There are probably alot of "2010 pump shaft" parts available . . . to this day I have not heard of a 2010 double bearing pump set up failing. So to me it would be better to just get the 2010 set up and call it a day. I WOULD NOT ride around on the 2009 and earlier set ups "waiting" for the 2011 parts to come off backorder . . . that is a recipe for disaster IMO.

[nicjak]

done well in excess of 100hrs with my modded shaft, just take it to someone who knows there shit, its not rocket science with the correct tooling

If I were you, I will just wait for the new parts and would not bother modding the existing old parts.

[Blue 182]

Its not just the 300 drive shaft thats backordered, its the bearings too. I have 2010 set up but have put on about 50 hrs. +. It just makes me nervous entering the 50 to 100hr. zone. I wanted 300 set up or at least new bearings but I think it will be a while until they are available. I can see that modding the shaft is not that hard to do for some but I do not want to deviate from OEM. Not much choice but to keep on with fingers crossed until 300 parts come in. Unless someone here buried extra parts in their backyard for a rainy day!

[98gsxl951]

nicjak your right you did. missed that part. will machine this once my bearings come in. only stuff that is on back order for me is the bushing, shaft and nut. nut i found i will being going standard thread vs left hand per this guys advice.

This evening, I completed my pump rebuild with the new modified shaft. In doing the rebuild I did the wet pump mod as well. The ONLY thing I will be changing with the upcoming shafts being made is I will keep the nut threads holding the rear bearing in place standard threads. Not reverse. Here is our reasoning for standard threads....when the install was completed I put the retaining nut for the rear bearing on last. Being it is opposite threads as the impeller, you can't use the impeller to work with you in effort to tighten the nut so we had to use two jam nuts on the impeller side threads of the shaft to torque the new rear nut down. What we have decided to do, is keep standard threads for ease on installation. I know somebody will say "What about the nut possibly backing off due to rotation of the shaft" Here is our thoughts...in this case you're dealing with 3/4" of threads tightened over 70ft pounds (being it will be torqued the same as the impeller considering you'll be using the impeller basically as a wedge, or nut as a wedge to the impeller, so both will have the same tightening forces on them.) Over 70ft pounds on a nut with blue lock tite ( I think red would be to extreme) should not even think of backing off. You hear of impellers backing off sometimes, with that, you're dealing with something that weights a few pounds spinning that fast compared to a nut that weighs literally nothing.

also should i go with 316 ss or will 18-8 ss work?

i am thinking about drilling the shaft and nut and safety wiring the 2 together will this be ok?.

pic below how i did my bmw oil pump which are notorious for backing the nut off.

dont reuse the bearings. pack each seal full of grease and add grease around the collar when you sit it back into place fill the whole cavity. take the shaft to a machine shop with a bearing and get them measure the width then get them to turn the shaft to suit the extra one. then turn a 3/4 thread on the end job done saved yourself some dollars on purchasing a shaft. when you assemble before fitting the pump cone spin the prop then install the pump cone and spin again if it feels the same all is good if it feels tighter you will need to lightly sand down the end of the pump cone on some paper, sometimes the cone applies to much pressure on the rear bearing causing it to bind.