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  1. #11
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Post #4 explains in detail the 650 or 750 conversion to a 780

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...4-650-780-jugs


  2. #12
    fuel lines fule lines fule lines i would reccomend checking youre carbs abd fuel lines and make sure everything is clear
    Quote Originally Posted by robredneck227 View Post
    i am having some trouble with my 1994 polaris sl 750 ski, i bought it yesterday from a guy that said it ran fine i took it out today and got on the water it did run but you it was just putting along when id try to get on it it would shut off or slow down it would go about 15MPH tops any body know what it could be? it also will not just idle without giving it gas or it will shut off? this is my first ski ive always messed with fourwheelers and dirtbikes so im kinda of new to the whole seadoo thing would like to know if you had some tips or some direction i could go! thanks!

  3. #13
    Good info

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    COMMON PROBLEMS:

    Please refer to this link for burnt, cracked, melted, or a hole in piston.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...urndown-Basics

    Most of the causes listed in that link could be solved by performing the fuel system upgrades. Things like the obstruction in fuel lines, restrictor missing, and dirty carbs or filters can be easily resolved.

    Incorrect Carb Adjustments can lead to a poor performing engine or possible piston damge. Please refer to the settings for your year and model ski.
    Post #12 is not complete, but covers alot of the models. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...es-Carbs/page2

    Wrong spark plug heat range. NGK runs backwards from most other manufacturers. The lower number is actually hotter. Some of the older models recommend using the NGK BPR7ES spark plug. We have found the BPR8ES works just as well, and gives a little more room for error as far as heat related piston damage.

    Engine Timing can cause engine damage from excessive heat due to too far advanced ignition timing. An incorrectly installed magneto/electrical stator or a different CDI from another model may advance the timing. Refer to a repair manual for proper testing procedure.

    Out of Phase Crankshaft. Your crank is press fit together, not a single piece and bolted together like a car. What that means is a hydrolocked engine or an obstruction (stick or rock) that gets lodged in the jet pump can twist the crank. If that happens, the piston that came out of phase can get damaged for no apparent reason. There are easy tests that can be done with the engine inside the hull. Post #4 http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...redneck+method

    Air Leaks inside the engine lean the air/fuel mixture out to the point it runs hotter and damges pistons or may even lead to detonation. A leak down test will tell if your engine is sealed air tight. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ight=leak+test

    Piston Wash is a great indicator of a potential problem. It can show you if you're running lean on fuel and heading towards piston damage, or if you're running rich and not getting peak performance. It's as easy as removing the spark plug and placing a very small (usually flexible) flashlight or borescope into the cylinder. Remove the spark plugs and plastic engine coupler cover. Turn the engine over by hand until the desired piston is at it's lowest point. Insert the light/scope into the hole and take a look at your piston dome. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ht=piston+wash


    Another common problem seems to be the ground wire inside the wiring harnes melts down. First make sure your battery cables are tight and have clean connections on both the battery and the engine plate where the ground wire connects. Most models should have a plastic cover between the battery and the aluminum elec box. If you do not, get one or place something nonconductive between them. It appears the aluminum box may short out between the battery terminals and cause the ground wire to melt.

    Multi Function Display doesn't turn on. Inside the elec box is a 1/4 amp fuse, check that with a multi tester. Sometimes it's hard to see the break in the fuse. Replace it with another 1/4 amp fuse ONLY. (can be found at radio Shack) Anything higher will damage the expensive MFD unit.

    MFD always reads low fuel even with a full tank. The float inside the pick up tube gets saturated over time and doesn't float. You can buy a replacement float for around $25.

    Limp Mode is when the red light blinks on the MFD and the engine won't rev over 4200 RPM. It's activated by low oil, low fuel, overheat, or low power. Correcting the problem will get you back up and running, but there is a way to bypass the limp mode. If you go inside the elec box and remove the gray wire from the elec. board it will bypass the rev limiter. THIS HOWEVER IS NOT A FIX!!!!!! Bypassing the limiter leaves you open for catastrophic engine failure, or running out of fuel. Both of which can leave you stranded out on the water. Once again, FIX THE PROBLEM and re-install the gray wire inside the box.

    Weak Spark can often be cured by removing the spark plug boots and trimming the plug wires back about 1/4" or so to expose clean wire. Then rescrew (the boot terminal is threaded) the boot back on and zip tie it in place.

    Stalling, hesitation, surging, or making the engine run better by pulling the choke can normally be fixed by rebuilding the carburetors. Fuel sytem issues are the #1 problem with these skis.

    Ski revs up but doesn't go anywhere. First check your intake area by the jet pump for debris. Next if you have a rubber dampned engine coupler (black) under the plastic cover, look for signs of rubber shavings. Due to age, the driveshaft will slip inside the rubber, and won't transfer power to the impeller. Finally inspect the drive shaft splines on both ends for signs of wear (pointed or damaged), and check the engine coupler and impeller splines too. DO NOT put your finger inside them. You may get a nasty metal splinter if they are bad.
    Thanks to all guys for sharing detailed information about polaris. I am newbie to this arena so the details will surely help me a lot. Thanks again

  5. #15
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackPatterson View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    COMMON PROBLEMS:

    Please refer to this link for burnt, cracked, melted, or a hole in piston.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...urndown-Basics

    Most of the causes listed in that link could be solved by performing the fuel system upgrades. Things like the obstruction in fuel lines, restrictor missing, and dirty carbs or filters can be easily resolved.

    Incorrect Carb Adjustments can lead to a poor performing engine or possible piston damge. Please refer to the settings for your year and model ski.
    Post #12 is not complete, but covers alot of the models. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...es-Carbs/page2

    Wrong spark plug heat range. NGK runs backwards from most other manufacturers. The lower number is actually hotter. Some of the older models recommend using the NGK BPR7ES spark plug. We have found the BPR8ES works just as well, and gives a little more room for error as far as heat related piston damage.

    Engine Timing can cause engine damage from excessive heat due to too far advanced ignition timing. An incorrectly installed magneto/electrical stator or a different CDI from another model may advance the timing. Refer to a repair manual for proper testing procedure.

    Out of Phase Crankshaft. Your crank is press fit together, not a single piece and bolted together like a car. What that means is a hydrolocked engine or an obstruction (stick or rock) that gets lodged in the jet pump can twist the crank. If that happens, the piston that came out of phase can get damaged for no apparent reason. There are easy tests that can be done with the engine inside the hull. Post #4 http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...redneck+method

    Air Leaks inside the engine lean the air/fuel mixture out to the point it runs hotter and damges pistons or may even lead to detonation. A leak down test will tell if your engine is sealed air tight. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ight=leak+test

    Piston Wash is a great indicator of a potential problem. It can show you if you're running lean on fuel and heading towards piston damage, or if you're running rich and not getting peak performance. It's as easy as removing the spark plug and placing a very small (usually flexible) flashlight or borescope into the cylinder. Remove the spark plugs and plastic engine coupler cover. Turn the engine over by hand until the desired piston is at it's lowest point. Insert the light/scope into the hole and take a look at your piston dome. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ht=piston+wash


    Another common problem seems to be the ground wire inside the wiring harnes melts down. First make sure your battery cables are tight and have clean connections on both the battery and the engine plate where the ground wire connects. Most models should have a plastic cover between the battery and the aluminum elec box. If you do not, get one or place something nonconductive between them. It appears the aluminum box may short out between the battery terminals and cause the ground wire to melt.

    Multi Function Display doesn't turn on. Inside the elec box is a 1/4 amp fuse, check that with a multi tester. Sometimes it's hard to see the break in the fuse. Replace it with another 1/4 amp fuse ONLY. (can be found at radio Shack) Anything higher will damage the expensive MFD unit.

    MFD always reads low fuel even with a full tank. The float inside the pick up tube gets saturated over time and doesn't float. You can buy a replacement float for around $25.

    Limp Mode is when the red light blinks on the MFD and the engine won't rev over 4200 RPM. It's activated by low oil, low fuel, overheat, or low power. Correcting the problem will get you back up and running, but there is a way to bypass the limp mode. If you go inside the elec box and remove the gray wire from the elec. board it will bypass the rev limiter. THIS HOWEVER IS NOT A FIX!!!!!! Bypassing the limiter leaves you open for catastrophic engine failure, or running out of fuel. Both of which can leave you stranded out on the water. Once again, FIX THE PROBLEM and re-install the gray wire inside the box.

    Weak Spark can often be cured by removing the spark plug boots and trimming the plug wires back about 1/4" or so to expose clean wire. Then rescrew (the boot terminal is threaded) the boot back on and zip tie it in place.

    Stalling, hesitation, surging, or making the engine run better by pulling the choke can normally be fixed by rebuilding the carburetors. Fuel sytem issues are the #1 problem with these skis.

    Ski revs up but doesn't go anywhere. First check your intake area by the jet pump for debris. Next if you have a rubber dampned engine coupler (black) under the plastic cover, look for signs of rubber shavings. Due to age, the driveshaft will slip inside the rubber, and won't transfer power to the impeller. Finally inspect the drive shaft splines on both ends for signs of wear (pointed or damaged), and check the engine coupler and impeller splines too. DO NOT put your finger inside them. You may get a nasty metal splinter if they are bad.
    Thanks to all guys for sharing detailed information about polaris. I am newbie to this arena so the details will surely help me a lot. Thanks again
    Welcome to the Hulk!! Feel free to start a thread and post pics of what you have. We like to see whats out there! Don't hesitate to ask question, no matter how trivial. Especially since some thing that seem trivial do have a great impact on the health of the ski.....

  6. #16
    Hey guys quick question. I just recieved a 1995 sl650 in awesome condition runs great. Carbs an fuel lines rebuilt an replaced. I want to get the triple fuel pump is it hard to install. Also I saw I the first post something about oil filters were are they located at. Two concerns I have is one the ski smokes a little while in the water only while idling and the second there is in the back a clear hose connected to a plastic piece that's not connected to anything lol. Any ideas.

  7. #17
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubin11 View Post
    Hey guys quick question. I just recieved a 1995 sl650 in awesome condition runs great. Carbs an fuel lines rebuilt an replaced. I want to get the triple fuel pump is it hard to install. Also I saw I the first post something about oil filters were are they located at. Two concerns I have is one the ski smokes a little while in the water only while idling and the second there is in the back a clear hose connected to a plastic piece that's not connected to anything lol. Any ideas.
    light smoking at idle is normal and a good sign. The clear hose is likely the battery vent. Hooks up to the small port on the side of a lead acid battery. If you have a sealed or AGM, the hose will connect to nothing.

  8. #18
    Awesome thank you. I appreciate your help anyone have info on the triple fuel pump an oil filters. Also thinking bout a intake grate.

  9. #19

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    Question Good Ohms and Bad Ohms for 780 Magneto?

    Hi. I have a complete 1995 Polaris 780 electrical harness that I purchased with a used engine. I have tested the magneto, ignition coils, and cdi and I get good spark at all three plug wires. All of the ohms numbers match Green Hulk's posted values except that the Magneto Stator Coil Red/purple to Yellow wires yields 2.1 Ohms. The Magneto test thread on Green hulk states this value should be 0.6 ohms. What does an ohm value of 2.1 mean? I'm actually looking to sell the full electrical harness, magneto, and flywheel if this value is deemed acceptable or repairable...Please send me a reply if interested. Thank you for providing a friendly an extremely informative environment. Phil M.

  10. #20
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_M_650 View Post
    Hi. I have a complete 1995 Polaris 780 electrical harness that I purchased with a used engine. I have tested the magneto, ignition coils, and cdi and I get good spark at all three plug wires. All of the ohms numbers match Green Hulk's posted values except that the Magneto Stator Coil Red/purple to Yellow wires yields 2.1 Ohms. The Magneto test thread on Green hulk states this value should be 0.6 ohms. What does an ohm value of 2.1 mean? I'm actually looking to sell the full electrical harness, magneto, and flywheel if this value is deemed acceptable or repairable...Please send me a reply if interested. Thank you for providing a friendly an extremely informative environment. Phil M.
    Measuring really low ohm values is tricky, especially with consumer grade multi-meters.

    What does your meter measure for ohms when the two probes are simply shorted together? Is it consistent over several tests? If that number is not exactly 0.0 then it must be subtracted from the reading you got when measuring the stator charging coil.

    If your meter, for example, reads 1.2 ohms with probes shorted, and the stator coil measures 2.1, then the actual coil resistance is 2.1 minus 1.2 = 0.9

    0.9 ohms appears to be 50% different compared to the 0.6 ohm 'spec' but in reality the likelihood is that the stator coil is just fine. This is especially true if your meter says different ohm readings during several tests of the same coil, suggesting that the meter has limited accuracy with low ohm measurements.

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