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Thread: Unfogging engine
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03-03-2011, 04:01 PM #1
Unfogging engine
What is the best way to get the engine un-fogged and up and running?
I saw a thread where people fog between rides?
I was told by Matt at Gene's that fogging kills the spark plugs? And if the fogging spay gets on the plug you might as well throw them away,
standing by,
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03-03-2011, 04:05 PM #2
I fog after every ride. Never had any issues with the spark plugs. Come spring, I just fire it up and let the fogging oil burn out and ride.
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03-03-2011, 04:14 PM #3
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fire her up and ride the hell out of it !!!!!!!!!!!
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03-03-2011, 04:29 PM #4
thanks, that is what I was thinking,
It is getting warm here south of Houston, 74 degrees today,
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03-03-2011, 04:31 PM #5
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03-03-2011, 05:18 PM #6
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Once you have burned off the fogging oil after the first ride, a fresh set of spark plugs couldn't hurt.
Not because of the fogging oil, just that last season's spark plugs might not fire the engine as crisply as new ones can.
Mostly you want to be sure the fuel octane is high enough and the fuel fresh enough. And that the carbs are still working as they should. Sometimes things get gummed up internally while sitting.
And all the other pre-ride and pre-season checks, like oil lines, cables, linkages, on so on.
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03-03-2011, 05:53 PM #7
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Crank it over for 5-10 seconds with no plugs at WOT, choke off. I'd put a cap full of oil into each plug hole, crank for another 5 seconds at WOT, then put them back in and start it up, idle for a good 30 seconds, few blips, then kill it.
Give it a brief visual inspection, charge the battery with a good charger, ensure everything is tight and good to go, and take it out.
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03-03-2011, 06:58 PM #8
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Prime the carbs with some premix and fire her up!!!!!!
Zomgvtek: Why crank it with no plugs? (priming the fuel lines I assume?)
Why add more oil to a fogged engine?
Finally, why run it for 30 secs?? (with water hooked up I hope)
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03-03-2011, 07:43 PM #9
Add some deet and the skeeders will love uwe..
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03-03-2011, 08:11 PM #10
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It would depend on how you fogged the engine, but you would be priming the lines and helping to eliminate excess oil in the crankcase without a load. It would be assumed that the engine was fogged several months prior, so its not entirely likely the top end has a thorough coating of oil. And a little bit of excessive oil isn't going to be a major issue, so long as you don't hydrolock the thing. It would differ with the starting temp of the engine, but 20-30 seconds of cold idle with a excessively fogged engine usually results in much cooler cylinder temps than you would get from running it normally on the water. The cylinder temps should be monitored as the engine idles, basically as they always should after its been sitting for months, which would be a good indicator that every cylinder is running as it should. This is usually easier to do with the ski out of the water where the cylinder temps will rise more rapidly and you can ensure there isn't differences in temps due to uneven cooling due to the lack of water flow.
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