Page 6 of 12 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 113
  1. #51
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    46,763
    +1
    2,739

    Arrow What wires are for what - How the basic wiring system works (domestic carb models)

    Quote Originally Posted by urugol View Post
    ... CDI on the new 900

    That's what happens when you take your machine to an auto electrician

    I went in with the intention of moving the red/purple wire to the orange block, ummmm there is no terminal block

    Ok don't matter, so its a basket case cdi.

    The bilge and trim wasn't working so what I did was I noted the 2 orange cables which need power from the start/stop/bilge/trim switch.

    I am attaching that to direct power and the red/white circuit cables from the switches go respectively to the bilge and trim power.

    Question is, what size fuse should I run between the orange cables and power??????
    I am really not sure what you have there.

    Are you saying that someone has removed the terminal board?

    Despite the absence of a terminal board, was the wiring in factory configuration when you opened the electrical box?

    I would be skeptical about the reliability of each of those connections. If water has gotten into the connectors and under the wire insulation, then often reliability goes downhill. Be sure you can trust every electrical connection to continue to behave itself.

    Electrical gremlins caused by wonky connections can be a nightmare to sort out, especially while you are on the water.

    The factory/stock wiring configuration should be as follows;
    Battery power comes from the solenoid on a red wire.
    Red wire goes to one side of Reset button (which is really a circuit breaker).

    Red/Purple then runs from Reset button to supply 12 volt battery power to several things.
    Red/Purple feeds power to the LR voltage regulator, the stator charging coil, the Start button, and to the CDI.

    The MFD display is powered through a 1/4 Amp fuse, which is also a Red/Purple wire.
    Note: Technically the MFD's Red/Purple wire should be considered a different color, since it is on the far side of a fuse.

    The LR module sends power to the Orange wire when it senses the engine is rotating (cranking or running).
    The Orange wire supplies power directly to the bilge pump and the trim switch. Trim motor is powered through the trim switch (Blue/White & Green/White).
    Orange power for the bilge pump goes through a 3 Amp fuse, then through the Orange/Black wire to the actual bilge pump.

    Caution: I think the 1997 service manual wiring diagram for the SL900 has an error, as it shows the Orange wire for the Bilge button connected after the fuse. I think this is not the way it the machine is actually wired. Can you confirm this?

    Note: The bilge pump is the only thing powered through that 3 Amp fuse. If the bilge pump shorts or seizes up, the fuse blows, and only the bilge pump power is cut. The 3 Amp fuse does not affect anything but the bilge pump.

    The Bilge button on the handlebar is connected between Red/Purple and Orange. When the Bilge button is held down it simply forces battery voltage onto the Orange wire, ahead of the fuse, regardless of whether the LR module is switched on or not.

    Service Bulletin PWC-00-05
    The change for Service Bulletin PWC-00-05 is to disconnect the Red/Purple wire that feeds directly into the CDI (and only that CDI Red/Purple wire), and instead connect the CDI Red/Purple wire directly to Orange.

    Note: If the CDI is operating properly and reliably with the factory Red/Purple connection, then it is OK to leave it as is. If you are not sure whether this CDI will behave itself on the water, then you should make the change.

    The catch with making the change is that the stock wire routing for Red/Purple can have the CDI connection in the middle of a chain of connections. ONLY the Red/Purple wire which runs directly into the CDI is to be removed from the Red/Purple connection group. All other Red/Purple wire connections must be kept together.

    Note: There is no fuse involved. After the Service Bulletin change, the switched Orange power still comes through the LR module. In addition to the other Orange wires it is always connected to, it now also feeds the single Red/Purple wire going into the CDI.

    The other catch with this change is that your ignition system is now reliant on the LR module working properly. If the LR module doesn't actually switch 12 volt power to the Orange wires when it should then your CDI will not have power, and the engine will not run.

    If this happens on the water, the work-around is to hold the Bilge button down. The Bilge button forces power onto the Orange wires, even if the LR module is not working, and even if the bilge fuse has blown.


  2. #52
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lemont,IL
    Posts
    3,934
    +1
    100
    Keiths advise is awesome,definetly follow it.

    To add; many times the red with purple stripe wires fade and the purple stripe will look white. From the factory,your 900 shouldn't have any red/white wires. Make sure you trace them,they will probably lead to something that needs a red/pur.

    prop; Are you using a 5131588 in the other 900?

    with all the work you have done,I would start with the 588 prop to make sure it runs properly,having the other 900 will give you some thing to compare to.Running the 588 will let you tune it easier.
    After you know it's running properly,try the 707 for top speed.It will load the engine more,so watch your fuel mixture.
    That nu-jet 7.0 will not work in the PRO 785 (PRO 1200 yes- too big pitch for the 785)
    From my experience,The Nu-jet 7.0 will be slightly higher pitch than the 707 prop.

  3. #53

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Homer Glen Il.
    Posts
    8,777
    +1
    123
    You always want to start with Factory prop for your ski no matter how much you built it up motor wise this way you have a starting point for that ski and then you get it tuned in where it's running to factory specs or better and then you can start to see what prop changes you can make . Trust me i've learned the hard way

  4. #54
    urugol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    1,231
    +1
    3
    Thanks for all the advice guys, noted on the props I will leave as is and use a starting point, I guess it makes sense if I can power up to peak rpm no probs better to start with the original one then swap them as I go.

    Keith, you are without doubt the electrical authority here

    The reset button has been removed from the box And the car fuses are 30amp I'm fairly certain that what you are saying about the Bilge Orange wire is correct. The good news is that I have a good factory cdi in the 900 next to it on the tandem trailer so I can reference one to the other. I will print out your highly detailed response and use that to get everything working. This actually started because I couldn't test the trim by holding down the bilge, which prompted a look inside Water most certainly got inside, and it looks like the last person that worked on it decided to throw out the terminal board.

    I suspect the ignition bits should all be fine, it starts up and runs so I doubt engine spark would be affected

  5. #55
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    Keith is the electical/electronic wizard! 110%...

    HeY!, I have this cdi box here with all sorts of goodies on it almost complete looks like. do you need anything? the wholebox? or parts to get your ski running? I dont even know myself what its for. Probably a Pro 785 if I know chopper.lol

    it was in the goodie bin. or bins is more like it.

    I ship Internationally! You know that! Anything to help a Gher from down under.

    I just realized lugs said he has a 1050 box.. doh!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	100_2433.jpg 
Views:	575 
Size:	131.9 KB 
ID:	226373   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	100_2431.jpg 
Views:	659 
Size:	73.9 KB 
ID:	226374   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	100_2434.jpg 
Views:	767 
Size:	162.2 KB 
ID:	226375  

  6. #56
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    46,763
    +1
    2,739
    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    ...I have this electrical box here with all sorts of goodies on it almost complete looks like. ... I don't even know myself what its for...
    Is there a part number on the terminal board?

    LR module number?

    Ignition coil numbers?

    These are clues to which years/models it was used with.

  7. #57
    urugol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    1,231
    +1
    3
    Looks the same, I can see the part number just can't make it out 4040071. It's on the bottom left under the R/PUR terminal fuse.

  8. #58
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    macomb,michigan
    Posts
    5,896
    +1
    6
    yep thats it 4040071


    Keith ,its a lr-31-1 , 406192 is in the other circle with numbers.


    coils are F6T545 7218 is under it

  9. #59
    urugol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    1,231
    +1
    3
    Ok I have finally got this sorted. I had a massive issue in that the cable from the bilge to the cdi changed color twice and was rusted out inside. It drove me insane to the point I had no choice but to crack open the conduit and trace it all the way. Mind you this was after trying to test every cable with the test light I ended up stabbing my fingers for blood more times than a crazed type 1 diabetic .Cable replaced and heat shrunk. All other cables heat shrunk in CDI and garnished in starbrite electrical grease

    It's a good thing I opened the switch as there was a rather frayed Orange wire which was about to short on the handlebars That is now sorted as well, wouldn't want that to happen out in the water!

    Ok to my next dilemma, the trim switch seems to work ok but the trim motor resembles something out of the titanic. What are my chances of reviving this? There's no way I will get a trim motor by the weekend. Any ideas? Also to test the trim switch to a battery is it simply Blu/W to - and ? Grn/W to +?

    I added the Ocean Pro long plate to the 1050, and I am looking for stability on this thing. One last thing on sponsons, what do you guys recommend for the most stable ride? I have stock, Worx and Hot Seat
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1170720.jpg 
Views:	209 
Size:	83.6 KB 
ID:	226488   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1170721.jpg 
Views:	190 
Size:	52.7 KB 
ID:	226487   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1170722.jpg 
Views:	252 
Size:	95.8 KB 
ID:	226486  

  10. #60
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    46,763
    +1
    2,739
    Quote Originally Posted by urugol View Post
    ...It's a good thing I opened the switch as there was a rather frayed Orange wire which was about to short on the handlebars That is now sorted as well, wouldn't want that to happen out in the water!

    ...the trim motor resembles something out of the titanic. What are my chances of reviving this? There's no way I will get a trim motor by the weekend. Any ideas?

    ...to test the trim switch to a battery is it simply Blu/W to - and ? Grn/W to +?...
    Things like that frayed Orange wire are why I often recommend actually going through the entire PWC and actually taking stuff apart and visually checking.

    The Trim motor is tested by directly connecting it to the battery voltage. One polarity runs the motor one way. Reversing the polarity runs the motor the other way.

    If you are concerned about the trim motor being internally shorted, use an inline fuse holder with a fuse between the battery and one of the motor terminals. Reduces the amount of sparking and smoke if the motor is actually shorted

    You may be able to revive the trim motor. Use rust remover carefully to clean it up. Pull the motor apart if necessary to clean up the internals.

Page 6 of 12 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. SL900/1050 Stator Question Backfire/Bog
    By HU112BU in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 11-09-2011, 01:35 PM
  2. FS Polaris SL900-1050 Sponsons
    By Watcon in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-05-2010, 09:10 AM
  3. 750 to 1050 Conversion??
    By jsl750&slt750 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-11-2010, 01:16 PM
  4. Seadoo 951 to 1050 conversion
    By IDOOTOO in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-05-2009, 04:20 PM
  5. 900 to 1050 Conversion Info
    By christian79 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-18-2007, 10:51 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •