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  1. #31

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    Hi,
    Rebuilding my xlt1200 and just wanted to make sure the correct way to install the rear oil seal. Your photo shows the brass part facing out of the engine. It looks the other way around in the repair manual but it not a very good picture. Please let me know.

    Thanks
    John

  2. #32
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Just like my picture shows with the metal facing out that is the front seal.

    Rear seals the one with tabs faces out then the two knurled looking faces point at eachother it is not possible to get them in wrong they won't fit in the grooves.

    Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk

  3. #33
    CJ River Rider's Avatar
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    "After the thread cleaning I ensured all the mating surfaces were flat, to do this I used a surfacing stone I have for the milling machine and WD-40 as lubricant."

    Is a surfacing stone the same as a sharpening stone that you can find about anywhere?

  4. #34
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    sure is

  5. #35
    CJ River Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    sure is
    Thank you

  6. #36
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Remember this is a cleaning operation to make sure there are no high spots, the goal is to only remove material that has been raised from being dinged or dented.


  7. #37
    CJ River Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    Remember this is a cleaning operation to make sure there are no high spots, the goal is to only remove material that has been raised from being dinged or dented.
    Thanks again, I'm using your thread and the shop manual to put back together my GP1200 case. Got the threads cleaned out with the taps as you show and after I wash the case and clean the mating surfaces with carb cleaner, I'll run/check over the mating surfaces with a straight edge. Hopefully I won't need the stone.

  8. #38

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    Very nice write-up. Doing this same thing this weekend
    Thanks

  9. #39
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ River Rider View Post
    Thanks again, I'm using your thread and the shop manual to put back together my GP1200 case. Got the threads cleaned out with the taps as you show and after I wash the case and clean the mating surfaces with carb cleaner, I'll run/check over the mating surfaces with a straight edge. Hopefully I won't need the stone.
    A fine file held flat will knock down high spots as well. I always worry recommending files as people can get carried away and remove too much material. Thats why I used the stone in my build. any knife sharpening stone will work as well.

  10. #40

    Crank seal help

    Hi. Thanks for writing a great tutorial on this subject. I'm new to the watercraft world and have little engine experience. I am ready to put the crank in and my crank case back together. I have one question about what you mean when you wrote this " I fill the inner portion of the seal with some waterproof marine grease, and wipe a little on the*crank*surface.Then I install the seals, I lightly coat the outside of the seal with some grease to aid in*sealing*as well". Thanks for your help. Brad. I figured out you can edit after the post has been submitted. Ill try to delete my next post.
    Last edited by tippensba; 08-28-2012 at 09:33 AM. Reason: wrong word used.

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