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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by blkturbo! View Post
    I have my parts removed to get easy access. I still have to collect and cut the wood.

    Is the only thing Im sliding back the black boot, or is there any mechanical device under/in there that im trying to grab also?
    And once the boot gets smushed back, what am i looking for? Just a C clip sitting there on the driveshaft? Do I just grab and yank it out with pliers while prying the boot back or what?

    Thanks!
    The tool just slides the stainless collar towards the back of the ski about 3/4" to 1" or so, and it collapses the accordion boot in the process. When you slide it back, the C clip will be exposed. You just take a screwdriver and push on one of the open ends of the C clip and it pops right off. It is not on there with much tension.

    How hard it is to move depends on a bunch of factors. These guys that run in salt have it much worse than us fresh water guys. I don't know what BRP used on the O-rings in the factory, but whatever they used goes away in a couple years and it is really hard to move these after they have set awhile. I always use silicone dielectric grease on the O-rings and the area they sit. It seems to hold up much better over time as it is waterproof.

    Also keep in mind that the harder it is to slide the collar, the harder it is to remove the driveshaft out the back once you have the clip off. If it is hard to move, when you have the collar slid back, put some oil down on the exposed area so when the collar moves back, it will go over oil and not dry crusty stuff. This will make it easier to pull the driveshaft out.


  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    RXPT400 is right. There was another thread recently showing a super rusty driveshaft, and the consensus of the forum was that the guys only choice was to get out the sawzall and go at it.

    This tool you linked to does the exact same thing as the boards do. It comes down to one costing $110, and the other is basically free. I only see fresh water skis, so we have it easy....

  3. #13
    Gone in 3.0 seconds... RXPT400's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    RXPT400 is right. There was another thread recently showing a super rusty driveshaft, and the consensus of the forum was that the guys only choice was to get out the sawzall and go at it.

    This tool you linked to does the exact same thing as the boards do. It comes down to one costing $110, and the other is basically free. I only see fresh water skis, so we have it easy....
    your tool works great and gets the job done for pennies on the dollar.....it is a great invention and that is what counts but Ive been through some of these seals that Ive removed the engine to get that thing out man... otherwise the damn seal will never have move back and even with the shaft outside and hammering the seal it was tough to get it out....WHAT A NIGHTMARE!!!!!...sometimes it makes you wonder what that hell they were thinking when BRP designed this thing...

  4. #14
    GGG's Avatar
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    Ya that tool is def not for a poorly maintained skis. that plywood will snap in seconds

  5. #15
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    RXPT400 is right. There was another thread recently showing a super rusty driveshaft, and the consensus of the forum was that the guys only choice was to get out the sawzall and go at it.

    This tool you linked to does the exact same thing as the boards do. It comes down to one costing $110, and the other is basically free. I only see fresh water skis, so we have it easy....
    Yep, sure does.....for someone who changes out a carbon ring every year or 2, maybe 3 or 4 years for fresh water. But when ther floating ring doesn't budge the self made tool may not work. Then what? Beat it with a rubber mallet? That's how stuff gets F'ed up......

  6. #16
    GGG's Avatar
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    I work mainly on skis left on sport ports in salt water so I have never gotten a ring off without bending the shit out of it or cutting it in half

  7. #17
    Ryguy425425's Avatar
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    Just wanted to thank you! For some reason I was really overcomplicating this problem. I'm going to make my lever out of steel plate, hopefully I won't have to do any cutting.

  8. #18
    If you don't have rust, just pull the supercharger if you have one, reach in with both hands and pull it back, hold it back with one hand, and push half circle clip off with a screw driver. Did the same putting it back on over and over. Not bad once you understand what your looking for. I can have the pump off and driveshaft out in about 30 min now, and 10 min is spent on that stupid backwards supercharger bolt

  9. #19
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Beyond easy when you use the correct tools to do a job.

  10. #20
    O K I got the C clip off. Now I am trying to pull the shaft out. How hard do I need to pull it? what is holding it? The O-rings?

    Gary

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