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  1. #61
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    You are welcome Sam! it will look great on your ski!...

    question about the sound suppression> I`m looking at it and wondering the configuration of the foam block, is this the way it came? the block I have is big and sits under the water locker...
    I remember reading the install was to pre-assemble the alum elbow outlet to the small hose and water locker and install as one unit lining up the three bolts and gasket in the rear part of the hull...

  2. #62
    rangermtb5's Avatar
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    no problem! glad to help out!

  3. #63
    USCME's Avatar
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    Pale Rider
    question about the sound suppression> I`m looking at it and wondering the configuration of the foam block, is this the way it came? the block I have is big and sits under the water locker...
    I remember reading the install was to pre-assemble the alum elbow outlet to the small hose and water locker and install as one unit lining up the three bolts and gasket in the rear part of the hull...
    Andy, this is exactly as I took it out. In the picture I previously posted you can't see the big block under the water locker very well because it is obstructed by a second styrofoam block.

    Here is the large support block in place, along with the waterbox, and elbow that exits the hull.


    Here is the water locker being supported by the large block and everything hooked up. There is just that second block in front of it all so it is not easy to see.

    Maybe the 1300 doesn't come with this second block so it looks a little different? This is how it came out of my ski originally and it is congruent with the exploded diagram in the service manual. If you look in the service manual cajundude has posted, on page 230, it shows the support block as #13 and the block obstructing your view as #1, the diagram makes it a little more clear. Sorry these are the only pics I snapped when getting it all back together.

  4. #64
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Thanks Sam, it`s been such a long time since the foam was in, I pulled all of it out and it went in the big round thing in the corner of the shop...lol..
    I have the foam piece that sits under the locker (VIA Duke), and a few spare parts just in case... I have to modify the block of foam bc I have my bilge outlet above and to the left. so it will be interesting to modify the foam for clearance of the bilge hose...we`ll see... I have some time yet...lol...


  5. #65
    dewzee1200's Avatar
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    RE: I couldn't get the ski to fire today which was quite a letdown

    Did you determine the cause of the engine not firing ?

  6. #66
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    dewzee1200- The cylinders were not getting fuel. My ski has been hard to start when cold from when I first got it and it has only gotten worse. I dripped a little bit of fuel into the cylinders and it would fire up immediately and run for a few seconds until that fuel had been consumed. I'm going to rebuild the carbs and change up the fuel system a little bit adding a primer. Parts are already in the mail

  7. #67
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    I have read that the Primer Kit will replace the Choke and eliminate the cold starting issues. Please share your insight on the pros & cons of the OEM accelerator pump. I have seen posts saying that they opted for using the accelerator pump as the Primer. I have always thought the accelerator pump was designed to squirt gas into Carbs to prevent BOOG during rapid acceleration.

  8. #68
    USCME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewzee1200 View Post
    I have read that the Primer Kit will replace the Choke and eliminate the cold starting issues. Please share your insight on the pros & cons of the OEM accelerator pump. I have seen posts saying that they opted for using the accelerator pump as the Primer. I have always thought the accelerator pump was designed to squirt gas into Carbs to prevent BOOG during rapid acceleration.
    The factory choke and an aftermarket primer system essentially accomplish the same thing, just in different fashions. When a motor is cold, fuel vaporizes less easily making the engine harder to start. This is overcome by richening the mixture for startup, which both a choke system and primer system do. A choke setup restricts the amount of air entering the engine while inlet fuel remains the same, thus creating a more fuel dense mixture. Conversely, a primer system allows extra fuel to be squirted into the inlet path for startup while inlet air volume remains the same; again creating a richer mixture for startup. There are performance gains to be had by removing the factory choke system because even when wide open, the butterfly valves still obstruct the inlet path. This is the primary advantage to deleting the choke plates and installing a primer kit for startup which is not intrusive upon the inlet air tract. Most people seem to have easier starting with a primer than with chokes as well.

    On to the accelerator pump; Yamaha incorporated the accelerator pump as a result of emission regulations. In order to meet emissions they incorporated the catalytic converter and jetted the engine very lean. As a result of this lean jetting, the motor tended to bog down low in rev range when accelerating. This is where the accelerator pump came in. The pump squirted an extra bit of fuel into carbs 1 and 3 when accelerating from lower rpms to compensate for the lean condition and bring the mixture closer to stoichiometric. However, if you jet properly then you do not need this extra squirt of fuel, allowing you to delete the pump and simplify your fuel system.

    As for using the accelerator pump for a primer; some people disable it from the throttle and reach down to actuate the pump using it as a primer. However, it will only prime 2 of the 3 cylinders and you have to take the seat off to prime it which makes it an inconvenient solution in my opinion.

    Hope this helps

  9. #69
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    Carb Removal

    Start out by removing the stinger first. The U-pipe can stay in but I pulled it out anyway, it comes out pretty quickly and gives you a lot more access into the hull.

    With these exhaust components out of the way it was time to get to the carbs. The factory air pickup assembly that comes from the airbox secures to the front of the engine with one bolt. Unhook this and loosen the cable clamp securing it to the airbox and then slip it out of the hull. Now you'll be sitting about here


    Next, slide the clips on the airbox back so you can pull the front of it off. With the front off, you will have access to the 6 bolts holding the box to the carbs. If I remember correctly, these are 10mm bolts.


    With this off, you'll now be looking at just the carbs.


    I already had the oil pump removed from switching to premix so this was one less thing to do. Loosen the 10mm nuts holding the throttle cable to its associated bracket. Slide the cable out of the bracket and now you can disengage the cable pin from the throttle pulley.


    Now disconnect the fuel feed and return lines. The return line is the line closer to the bow, the feed line connects to the angle fitting closer to the rear of the ski.

    Return line


    Feed line


    Be ready to plug these asap to avoid spilling fuel everywhere. An M8 bolt fits perfectly for a quick plug.


    Next unhook the two vacuum lines that connect to the top of the carbs. No fuel here, so no need to plug them up, the lines come from the factory with 6mm band clamps.


    There is a fuel pump vacuum hose that connects to the carbs near the front of the ski that will need to be disconnected as well.

    If your choke system is still intact, you will need to unhook the choke cable from the bracket nearest the front of the ski, and underneath the carbs.


    Choke cable disconnected


    Unbolt the throttle stop screw bracket.

    With this unhooked, all that remains is to unbolt the carb rack.

    There are four 5mm allen bolts securing the carb rack to the reed plate. You will have to have an allen wrench with a reaonable reach to get to them. The bolts have whitish to yellowish plastic caps on them.

    With these bolts out, there are just six 10mm bolts to remove and you can pull the carbs off. (Sorry I slacked off with the camera towards the end of this)

    Now pull the carbs off!


    Up on the bench, awaiting a rebuild.

  10. #70
    still kicking ass and taking names! Pale Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USCME View Post
    The factory choke and an aftermarket primer system essentially accomplish the same thing, just in different fashions. When a motor is cold, fuel vaporizes less easily making the engine harder to start. This is overcome by richening the mixture for startup, which both a choke system and primer system do. A choke setup restricts the amount of air entering the engine while inlet fuel remains the same, thus creating a more fuel dense mixture. Conversely, a primer system allows extra fuel to be squirted into the inlet path for startup while inlet air volume remains the same; again creating a richer mixture for startup. There are performance gains to be had by removing the factory choke system because even when wide open, the butterfly valves still obstruct the inlet path. This is the primary advantage to deleting the choke plates and installing a primer kit for startup which is not intrusive upon the inlet air tract. Most people seem to have easier starting with a primer than with chokes as well.

    On to the accelerator pump; Yamaha incorporated the accelerator pump as a result of emission regulations. In order to meet emissions they incorporated the catalytic converter and jetted the engine very lean. As a result of this lean jetting, the motor tended to bog down low in rev range when accelerating. This is where the accelerator pump came in. The pump squirted an extra bit of fuel into carbs 1 and 3 when accelerating from lower rpms to compensate for the lean condition and bring the mixture closer to stoichiometric. However, if you jet properly then you do not need this extra squirt of fuel, allowing you to delete the pump and simplify your fuel system.

    As for using the accelerator pump for a primer; some people disable it from the throttle and reach down to actuate the pump using it as a primer. However, it will only prime 2 of the 3 cylinders and you have to take the seat off to prime it which makes it an inconvenient solution in my opinion.

    Hope this helps
    Awesome reply!

    and very thorough build!

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